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2007 Honda Civic Coupe EX
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Discussion Starter #1
Apologies for adding more to the already plagued topic but I just want to speak on the behalf of the first time civic 8th gen owners/ non-si owners.

As we all know, it affects only 2006-Early 2009 R18A Engines.

The new questions I wanted to bring up that I think would make interesting points:

Is there a specific season/ weather that causes cracked engine blocks?

Do you think the surplus of 8th gen civics (non-si) that are being posted for sale are being sold for the purpose of cracked engine blocks. or circumstances due to Covid causing people to sell their assets?

Are there any tips or words of wisdom to prevent or deal with the unfortunate case of crack engine blocks?

And most of interesting of all, do you think the sedans are less prone to cracking than the coupes since both have the same identical engine, but the sedan has a couple hundred pound difference in curb weight making it carry more load.
 

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Mine has almost 300,000miles and is a 2007 EX sedan. I've babied it since day 1 (brand new) and did the maintenance religiously (myself). Mine car has seen redline RPM only twice in its life. From what I understand, even treating it carefully will not prevent the block from cracking if the defect is present. Realize they found the defect in the casting process and it doesn't affect EVERY car. If it is a sedan or coupe, if shouldn't matter. COULD BE that if you stress the motor (driving it hard), it could exasperate the defect and cause it to crack (my theory). I could see that the colder weather (broader temperature ranges the block encounters) playing a role. I don't know, I'm just throwing that out there. The newest R18s are now 9 years old so it doesn't surprise there are many on used car lots. COVID has made people do stupid things, but b/c you see a glut of these cars on lots, doesn't mean anything negative. They are getting old and folks might be getting wind of this defect and getting scared, thus dumping them. MAYBE. Anyway, IF the block cracks, that's it. The only fix is getting another one (a 2010+ block which the defect was corrected). Although I've seen folks on other forums and video do a JB weld patch job (ghetto, I know) and it held up for reasonable amount of time (months). I have yet to see that anyone take it to a professional welder and had it fixed permanently. I think technically it can't be for whatever technical reason, but it sure as hell worth trying. Apart from this disastrous defect, these are great cars, if properly maintained. If shopping for a used one, check that it has been maintained and look at the block (lower right hand side). If it is wet or looks like its been worked on, walk away.

In the event my block decides to crack, I still don't know what I'll do. Mine is in great shape and I've been told it may be worth it (in my case). I have played with the idea of just getting a 2010 block/tranny and throwing it on, but who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mine has almost 300,000miles and is a 2007 EX sedan. I've babied it since day 1 (brand new) and did the maintenance religiously (myself). Mine car has seen redline RPM only twice in its life. From what I understand, even treating it carefully will not prevent the block from cracking if the defect is present. Realize they found the defect in the casting process and it doesn't affect EVERY car. If it is a sedan or coupe, if shouldn't matter. COULD BE that if you stress the motor (driving it hard), it could exasperate the defect and cause it to crack (my theory). I could see that the colder weather (broader temperature ranges the block encounters) playing a role. I don't know, I'm just throwing that out there. The newest R18s are now 9 years old so it doesn't surprise there are many on used car lots. COVID has made people do stupid things, but b/c you see a glut of these cars on lots, doesn't mean anything negative. They are getting old and folks might be getting wind of this defect and getting scared, thus dumping them. MAYBE. Anyway, IF the block cracks, that's it. The only fix is getting another one (a 2010+ block which the defect was corrected). Although I've seen folks on other forums and video do a JB weld patch job (ghetto, I know) and it held up for reasonable amount of time (months). I have yet to see that anyone take it to a professional welder and had it fixed permanently. I think technically it can't be for whatever technical reason, but it sure as hell worth trying. Apart from this disastrous defect, these are great cars, if properly maintained. If shopping for a used one, check that it has been maintained and look at the block (lower right hand side). If it is wet or looks like its been worked on, walk away.

In the event my block decides to crack, I still don't know what I'll do. Mine is in great shape and I've been told it may be worth it (in my case). I have played with the idea of just getting a 2010 block/tranny and throwing it on, but who knows.
Thanks for the insight! Also, what do you recommend to do to keep the engine/ tranny healthy for maximum longevity like yours? (driving habits, staying at a certain rpm before operating temp, winter/ summer tips)
 

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I could see that the colder weather (broader temperature ranges the block encounters) playing a role. I don't know, I'm just throwing that out there.
My last civic (2009 LX-S 113k - 256k miles) used a small amount of coolant in the winter but almost none in warmer weather. I drove it a lot, 100+ miles per day 5-6 days a week. I would check it at the end of the night and add enough coolant to be showing up in the filler neck, usually 2-3 oz a little more on really cold night but never more than 5 or 6 oz. I never verified that it was leaking from the usual places but I never saw any coolant anywhere so I assume it was seeping out but drying on the hot block. I never let it go lower because I feared getting air bubbles in the system, and the car never overheated. Usually went through a gallon of coolant each winter but a fraction of that the rest of the year.

I suspect it would leak just enough to reduce pressure inside the system, and expansion/contraction of the coolant caused the level to go lower in the winter. At least that's my theory. Could also have been seepage from the heater core or something also, the coolant usage was so small I never bothered checking further.
 

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Engine: change when reminder is 15% . I use Mobile1 5w20, although I've used 0w20 for a few years without issue. Good idea to use during the winter months. Honda even cleared it for use in our engines.
Transmission: Drain and fill every 30,000 miles and again during the next 2 oil changes.
Filters: Oil/Air/Cabin is changed every time I change the oil (roughly 6-8K miles).
Coolant: Drained and Filled every 60,000 miles.

Driving habits: I never race the engine. Normal use for me is not going above 3,000 rpm. Like I mentioned before, my engine has seen redline twice in its 12 year life. When shifting(P-R-D-whatever), I completely stop the car. I don't change the gear when the car is moving. EVER. When driving after a cold start, the tranny is slow to shift, but its been like that since new. I let the tranny do its thing and never force it by accelerating hard.

That's it. I've made it to 291,000 miles (knock on wood) and thus far, no major issues.

Yes, I recently replaced the alternator (about a month ago), the A/C compressor last or the year before (I can't remember), rear shocks, front calipers, but I consider those item "wear". Yes, an A/C system should last a lifetime, but no system lasts forever.
 

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Filters: Oil/Air/Cabin is changed every time I change the oil (roughly 6-8K miles).
I've never heard of anyone changing the air filter that often. I know Honda likes to leave "recommended intervals" to our MMs but most recommendations I have seen are for 15-30K for the engine AF and 12-15K for the cabin. I usually start checking the engine filter at 10K, I just replaced it at around 14K and it was just starting to look dirty when held up to a bright light.
 

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I've never heard of anyone changing the air filter that often. I know Honda likes to leave "recommended intervals" to our MMs but most recommendations I have seen are for 15-30K for the engine AF and 12-15K for the cabin. I usually start checking the engine filter at 10K, I just replaced it at around 14K and it was just starting to look dirty when held up to a bright light.
I'm OCD and I don't care, LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Engine: change when reminder is 15% . I use Mobile1 5w20, although I've used 0w20 for a few years without issue. Good idea to use during the winter months. Honda even cleared it for use in our engines.
Transmission: Drain and fill every 30,000 miles and again during the next 2 oil changes.
Filters: Oil/Air/Cabin is changed every time I change the oil (roughly 6-8K miles).
Coolant: Drained and Filled every 60,000 miles.

Driving habits: I never race the engine. Normal use for me is not going above 3,000 rpm. Like I mentioned before, my engine has seen redline twice in its 12 year life. When shifting(P-R-D-whatever), I completely stop the car. I don't change the gear when the car is moving. EVER. When driving after a cold start, the tranny is slow to shift, but its been like that since new. I let the tranny do its thing and never force it by accelerating hard.

That's it. I've made it to 291,000 miles (knock on wood) and thus far, no major issues.

Yes, I recently replaced the alternator (about a month ago), the A/C compressor last or the year before (I can't remember), rear shocks, front calipers, but I consider those item "wear". Yes, an A/C system should last a lifetime, but no system lasts forever.
Good to know, I will keep these in mind! I hope my coupe will last to at least 150k (its 94k so far from 91k when I bought it)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My last civic (2009 LX-S 113k - 256k miles) used a small amount of coolant in the winter but almost none in warmer weather. I drove it a lot, 100+ miles per day 5-6 days a week. I would check it at the end of the night and add enough coolant to be showing up in the filler neck, usually 2-3 oz a little more on really cold night but never more than 5 or 6 oz. I never verified that it was leaking from the usual places but I never saw any coolant anywhere so I assume it was seeping out but drying on the hot block. I never let it go lower because I feared getting air bubbles in the system, and the car never overheated. Usually went through a gallon of coolant each winter but a fraction of that the rest of the year.

I suspect it would leak just enough to reduce pressure inside the system, and expansion/contraction of the coolant caused the level to go lower in the winter. At least that's my theory. Could also have been seepage from the heater core or something also, the coolant usage was so small I never bothered checking further.
Interesting stuff. I will definitely be checking. I feel like Ill be paranoid to see that if it happened to me because Ive spent hours reading about the infamous cracked block but we could do nothing but just hope and pray at this point!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
And I would also just like to add, is it just me, or does anyone else think that starting the car too often, or the transition from blistering cold to hot summers could provoke a cracked block? I know there is a slim chance for every car to experience this. I also try to drive conservatively and not go over 3k rpms unless I have to. I'm currently at 96,000 and have been driving it since last April. Do you guys think there's a good chance of my engine block being in good order until 200k?
 

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I have a 2007 sedan with 279,800 miles on the clock. No cracked block. Continue to drive and maintain your car as you are doing now. If the block cracks, it cracks, it doesn't affect each and every car. I think you are good to go.
 

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I'm just as paranoid as you (I have a 2006 EX Sedan) but the real key is to just take good care of the car since it's still in working condition. I too don't know what to do it the block cracks since I don't want to swap the whole engine in the driveway of my apartment.

One good tip: If you suspect a part that is failing (for example, the radiator or water pump), change it out asap as you don't want to overheat the car since it will crack for sure. Eyeing the engine temperature every time while being used is very good just to know if the engine is overheating or not. 2010+ Civic's don't have to worry about this.

I believe it's a rare issue. Millions of 8th gens were produced and if every single car had this defect happening early, a recall would be forced by NHTSA.
 

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I'm just as paranoid as you (I have a 2006 EX Sedan) but the real key is to just take good care of the car since it's still in working condition. I too don't know what to do it the block cracks since I don't want to swap the whole engine in the driveway of my apartment.

One good tip: If you suspect a part (for example, the radiator or water pump), change it asap as you definitely don't want to overheat the car since it will for crack for sure. Eyeing the engine temperature every time while being used is very good just to know if the engine is overheating or not. 2010+ Civic's don't have to worry about this.

I believe it's a rare issue. Millions of 8th gens were produced and if every single car had this defect happening early, a recall would be forced by NHTSA.
Thanks for the reassurance man. Tbh, my eyes are constantly on temp gauge and I check every week to see if there’s any loss of coolant. I’m that paranoid about this car. I still need to get my temp gauge replaced since it fluxes so whenever I see it go below operating temp, it gives me a little sigh of relief that it is not overheating (even though I should get it replaced soon). Actually kind of a reason why I am taking my time to replace it.
 

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Thanks for the reassurance man. Tbh, my eyes are constantly on temp gauge and I check every week to see if there’s any loss of coolant. I’m that paranoid about this car. I still need to get my temp gauge replaced since it fluxes so whenever I see it go below operating temp, it gives me a little sigh of relief that it is not overheating (even though I should get it replaced soon). Actually kind of a reason why I am taking my time to replace it.
Yeah, I always keep an eye at the temp gauge. I plan to replace the water pump at 165k as preventative maintenance so it doesn't fail on me and overheat the car. I'm at 164k on the original block and it's a bit tedious to drive the car everyday thinking "this car will let me down one day."

I'm also seeing coolant loss but i'm sure it's a normal thing for my car being high mileage AND being in the Ohio winters. I have to top it off once a month or 2.
 

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Yeah, I always keep an eye at the temp gauge. I plan to replace the water pump at 165k as preventative maintenance so it doesn't fail on me and overheat the car. I'm at 164k on the original block and it's a bit tedious to drive the car everyday thinking "this car will let me down one day."

I'm also seeing coolant loss but i'm sure it's a normal thing for my car being high mileage AND being in the Ohio winters. I have to top it off once a month or 2.
I’m the same way. Hopefully we can reach 200k!!
 

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Until I started reading these threads/forums I never gave a second thought to my Civic ever letting me down. Sure its broken a couple times.. battery, starter, ac, but I always feel I can get in it and drive anywhere.. she's got 128K miles now so it's an '08 with low mileage.. had an '01 Civic and drove that one the same way and traded it for a '12 when it had 151K miles, it had similar results, battery, ac and that's about it. The '12 I had only a short time, downtraded it to my daughter who was moving to LA from Florida and I had heart problems figured she would be better off with the newer car.

Do regular maintenance, if its needed replace it with OEM parts.. the get in it and drive it.
 

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You guys are right on the money. If your Civic is still driving right, then continue to do so. Be vigilant of the temp. YES, the probability of our blocks cracking are greater, but as stated before, it's not going to happen to EVERY CAR. My thermostat is the original (so 14 years old and almost 300K on it), as is the water pump. As someone stated before, don't "overdrive" you car (rev it to 5000 rpm everyday), change the oil every 5K (or when the oil reminder is at 15%) and basically take car of it. My job (for the last 13 years) has involved a long commute, but it has changed recently in that I'm in sales now, so the highway miles will continue to pile on. Having a car with a ton of miles makes one be extra careful. It least it should for those who care about their car. Like I said, I would HATE to have my engine start to overheat when I'm a few hours away from the comfort of home (and an Indy/Dealer mechanic i can trust). I have the thermostat on my radar, but also the water pump, although I've always been told to leave it alone if it's not acting up. I continue to mod (recently added vLed Triton V6 front signal/turn LEDs...... not cheap) my car............. yes, I've been told I'm a moron........... so be it.

So yes, DRIVE. USE OEM parts when replacing parts. TREAD LIGHTLY (on the car, LOL). ENJOY. Repeat Doing this should ensure a long life.
 

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I feel like my 12 year old '08 Civic EX Coupe is paying me back every time I get in it and she starts... especially when I look at friend's who pay the monthly lease and higher insurance every month and arrive at the same place and time as I do...

It is tired and little things need fixing but she just works. I recently replaced the passenger side visor..
 
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