Amazing write up. I`m going to be in the toronto area at Nextmod tomorrow (saturday June 18th) probably after 4 or 5pm. If you are free perhaps we could meet up. Id love to see the job in person.

 

Sorry man, Saturday I was in Brampton out to an Autosalom event and I got back very late.
Next time .

 

Look nice, love the SI logo.

 

How and where did you get that decal for the caliper? It looks great!

 

Thanks!
The decals were custom built by the person who re-built the calipers - Nish (purplemonkeydishwasher - above). You can't find them on the market as far as I know.

 

I wanted to do this so bad gj

 

nice thats an awsome write up!!

 

very nice, how much did all the parts cost you? what year tl-s was the calipers from

 

Thanks guys!



Everything, including the calipers, disk brakes, brake fluid (I'm running Gulf RF1000) and the master cylinder was about $1200. Keep in mind I have installed everything myself and that saved me a lot of money as well.

If you can find those calipers as second hand, not fully rebuilt (you could do that by yourself if you really want to), you could end up spending less for sure.

 

Good luck finding S2000 rotors (decent quality not ebay stuff) for only $100 a pair . The cheapest I could find was $140 + taxes and still good quality - the EBC blanks that I'm using as track setup. The more "fancy" stuff (EBC black dash) that I'm using for street are about $160 + tax ... if i remember correctly.
If you buy S2000 disks from dealer, even with employee discount, those are $120 a piece! So that's $240 a pair ... plus taxes.

But then again, US might have better prices than Canada.

Don't forget that I have included a brand new master cylinder as well in that pricing.

If you do this setup, do not cheap out on the brake pads and disk brakes.
Also, don't forget the price of the spacers that you will most probably need so your wheels can clear the calipers - that's another thing you do not want to cheap out. It will add up a little ... still way cheaper than buying an afer-market kit.

 

yeah,our prices are better.Rotors don't need to be oem to work..I've used both brembo rotors and store brand rotors and there's no difference in performance for a daily driver.The spacers won't be expensive as all you need them for is to push the TL rotor out a bit...they are'nt supporting anything.You don't NEED a BMC either,but yeah that would add to the cost I qouted.

 

Very nice!!!!

 

amazing write up!
very detailed, the logos look really nice! very OEM look!

 

Thanks!

what size wheels are you using mrnewt. i got the tl-s brembo caliper with s2000 rotors and will they clear my 17's dc5r wheels?

it all depends on the offset. you have to double check and make sure that it will clear. like I have said, you might need spacers to clear the calipers.

 

what size wheels are you using mrnewt. i got the tl-s brembo caliper with s2000 rotors and will they clear my 17's dc5r wheels?

 

the wheels are 60 offset. but worst case i got h&r 15mm spacers too. how long did it take to do everything except for the tl-s master cylinder?

 

You will most probably need spacers.

you can do everything (if you know what you are doing) in a day without a problem - including bleeding the brakes.

 

the pedal travel is fixed with the BMC? Does it become the same as stock? I dont want to mess with ABS bias either.

Ive melted HT-10s on the track so I need an upgrade

 

Yes, if you upgrade your BMC, the pedal travel goes back to normal.
I am driving this car on the streets and on the track and I have no problem with the ABS. It works normal.

 

It will be better to upgrade to 4 or 6 calipers because TL-S's different from si.

 

You go ahead and do that ... .

no as in piston size

purplemonkeydishwasher did some measurements and this is what he found:

Large Piston: 36.4 mm O.D acting pressure surface
Small Piston: 32.6 mm O.D acting pressure surface

There is a whole discussion about it HERE if you feel like reading trough.

 

I meant piston size of the tls brake master vs the si mc

 

I say potato and you say potato ... lol.

The TL-S size is:
- Bore size: 13/16"
- Push road depth: 2.55"


The Si:
- Bore size: 3/4"
- Push road depth: 2.24"

I can't remember the R.F. port size, but for Canadian are different ... US version might be the same for both cars.

 

will they clear stock si wheels?

 

Only if you use a minimum 20mm spacer (not 100% sure ... I don't have my stocks any longer).
Other then that ... is impossible.

 

looks like someone needs to start a TL Type S club

 

Nice DIY. Ive heard the TSX calipers work well also.

 

Thanks!
Yes, the TSX calipers are working quite very well - and they are direct bolt on (well, you still have to cut the dust shield and use TSX rotors).
That was my previous setup.

 

I need your help man where do I get the 10mm "female tube" size and 12mm "male thread adapter

 

I got mines from PartSource.
Those parts are actually a little bit hard to find .

I would search for them on-line as well (if PartsSource doesn't have them).

 

Wow, great write up! There is another thread about TSX brakes but it doesnt address the master cylinder, which is an important component to ensure good pedal feel.

I was wondering if any of you know if I get SS lines for my stock Si brakes and then do the upgrade if the SS lines will fit the new brakes?

Or am I going to have to get SS lines pretty much customized? I just dont want to waste my money.

 

Thank you!

Your SS Si aftermarket replacement brake lines should work just fine. That's what I have.
You can even use the stock rubber lines without a problem ... unless you are tracking the car.

 

nice do mines lol

 

Where can I find the 6 mm spacers mentioned in the blog entry about installing the TL type S rotors?

Thanks.

 

Not quite sure ... I never looked for them since I didn't went with that setup.

However ... looking online I was able to find plenty of 6mm spacers. I guess the trick will be to find something small enough that can go behind the rotor.
Don't forget you will need extended studs if you go that route.

 

Did you rebuild your calipers? If so where did you get the rebuild kit?

 

The calipers were already rebuilt when I purchase them. That was the beauty about the set I got (plus they were already painted ).
But, as far as I know, you can buy the kit from your local Acura dealer - give it a try (if you haven't already).

 

ohh alright cool thanks man

 

How expensive are the calipers and all the materials? It may have been in here but I didnt see it. Looks sick though!

 

Depends if is new or used ... and where you are located.
So, I would suggest to do some small research to get the right price.

 

mrNewt:
I'm currently running the TSX calipers/rotors on the track, and I'm satisfied with the level of braking I can achieve. With Hawk DTS-60 pads, I had only a little fade. I have noticed that the outside pads wear faster than the inside pads (any ideas why?), and I did get a small amount of chunking of the pads. After 4 track days, I've noticed that I have already cracked one of the piston dust boots.

Are these problems you ran into with your TSX setup? Would an upgrade to the TL-S setup help (how?)? Are the TL-S rotors larger yet than the TSX rotors? So, just more thermal mass?

Also, with the stock suspension, my tires wore through a part of the plastic wheel well lining... With spacers, I feel like that wear would be pushed out to the metal... any thoughts or experiences? I just upgraded to the HFP suspension, if that matters.

Thanks, and great writeup!
-Mike

 

Hi Mike,

Truth to be told, even the stock brake setup with some aggressive pads will give you enough power to stop the car. If the ABS is engaged you already reached the limits.
Now, if you race your car a lot, the stock parts won't last long and they need to be serviced more often.

The only reason you would upgrade your calipers is to improve the "wear and tear" of the brake components and for better heat dispersal.
What stops you is the tires. Better tires = better stopping power.

When was the last time you service the calipers? Are you using the TSX rotors as well?
With the TSX setup I never had a problem with the pads not wearing evenly. Maybe the piston is not traveling properly? Were the calipers brand new when you got them or were they used? If they were used, did you service them before installation?

"Chunking" usually happens when the pads are not wear-in properly. Make sure you follow the instructions when wearing-in the pads. Other than that ... don't know to be honest :|.
The DTC60 pads are very aggressive. They will bring a lot of extra heat on your rotors and is normal for the boots to crack. That means service your brakes at least once a year - preferably before winter (if you have winter in your area ).
I never looked to see if you can find better boots that resist the heat ... maybe that's something you want to look into.
Btw, with these pads, use the heat-shields that comes with them. They do help a little.

Yes, the TL-S calipers are MUCH bigger than the TSX ones. I believe I have a picture to compare them on my DIY. The only reason I've upgraded to them was the turbo that I've recently finished installing (new DIY to come soon ). The TSX setup would not resist the abuse for too long.

I run the TL-S setup with the same pads you are using and so far I see no wear on the boots. And everything works just fine. The only thing is that the calipers don't looks as nice and shinny anymore. Heat and dust faded the paint a little :|.

As for the wearing of the wheel well plastics, usually on stock suspension, a good alignment with some negative camber will take care of that.
I run Skunk Pro-c with a decent drop and got the same issues (with good alignment and some camber). I've end up removing the plastics and roll the fenders just a little bit. No more problems.

I'm glad you enjoyed my DIY!