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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, first post woohoo, to begin, I removed my airflow pipe in order to clean the throttle body since my engine was having a rough idle (it needed it for sure once I got a peak at it), in doing so I snapped a rubber connection hose to the pcv return line and had to buy a new airflow pipe from honda. After receiving this and cleaning the throttle body, I reassembled the airflow pipe by connecting it back to the throttle body and the airbox and connected the hoses again. After doing all of this reassembly, I started the vehicle and a check engine light came on, I continued by relearning the idle, and the light remained, scanned the obd2 and got the main code P0108 that the MAP sensor circuit was high, and got secondary codes P0113 (IAT sensor circuit high), P0102 (MAF sensor circuit low), and two P0507 (High idle) codes. Since this, I also noticed that the rev hang is now a thing on my vehicle, it wasn't before but from what I've read this is normal. Other drivability issues came up however, if I am braking from 15 mph down to 0 with the clutch depressed, the rpms hike up to 3k gradually while I'm braking then stutter back up and down until I'm stopped completely. I thought this might be because of my brakes being depressed but also if I am driving in first or reverse and I depress the clutch when rpms are lower than 3k the rpms jump to 3k before falling back down. I can confirm my foot is not slipping and hitting the accelerator nor is my floor mat on top of it either. I replaced the MAP sensor as the main code was that and also had one lying around. I've checked all lines with starter fluid to find a vacuum leak and haven't found one. My next thought is since the IAT is part of the MAF that possibly I could test the voltage from the IAT sensor to see if it is reading it right? It is still throwing the MAP sensor circuit high code even after replacing it with a new MAP sensor. Help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh and to add I also installed new spark plugs as the gap was twice what it was meant to be and the electrode was pinpoint, on top of what I've listed the CEL goes on and off every 200 miles or so but the issues stay when the light is off
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The flap inside of the throttle body? I did, from what I've heard some cobalts have an issue where if this is done the whole throttle body has to be programmed by a dealer, is this the case for civics as well? I did googling but couldn't find anything like that as an issue with ours.
 

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The flap inside of the throttle body? I did, from what I've heard some cobalts have an issue where if this is done the whole throttle body has to be programmed by a dealer, is this the case for civics as well? I did googling but couldn't find anything like that as an issue with ours.
I did the same on mine and after cleaning it the rpms would jump up.. and also cause rev-hang.

The solution is to reset the TPS sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've been honestly going crazy trying to figure out what was wrong, I completely removed everything I did the first time and reinstalled it all with no avail. From what I've found online, I need an obd2 scanner, would the scanner from autozone or o'reilleys work for it?
 

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I've been honestly going crazy trying to figure out what was wrong, I completely removed everything I did the first time and reinstalled it all with no avail. From what I've found online, I need an obd2 scanner, would the scanner from autozone or o'reilleys work for it?
The ones at Autozone unfortunately won't do the job. They don't have the TPS reset function.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Gotcha, yeah from what I've seen online this is common and somehow I blatantly did not see this as an issue at first, will this also clear all the codes? I presume it will since the codes are similar to a vacuum leak and fixing the tps would resolve the phantom vacuum leak that's detected
 

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Gotcha, yeah from what I've seen online this is common and somehow I blatantly did not see this as an issue at first, will this also clear all the codes? I presume it will since the codes are similar to a vacuum leak and fixing the tps would resolve the phantom vacuum leak that's detected
Supposedly,
Sounds reasonable 🤔
 

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Can this be prevented when cleaning the throttle body? What if the key was on and the gas pedal was pressed to open the throttle body instead of trying to open it manually? Would like to know this as I was planning to clean my throttle body in the next few days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That would work I think, only thing I think you'd have to be careful of is moving that plate when cleaning around the area it pivots. Best option would be to look up how to correctly clean it (I didn't do that) and follow those instructions as there may be a way to move the plate manually after disconnecting the tps or something. It would avoid the hassle that I'm currently stuck with, but the good news is that if you do need to relearn the tps with a foxwell nt510 elite (honda), you can order one on amazon for 170$ and then use it and return for a refund. That's what I plan on doing at least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just to update you all, it was the tps sensor, bought the scanner and definitely dont plan on returning it, such a life saver. I then proceeded to send a tow hitch through my floorboard going 70 on the highway.
 
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