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Ok. Assuming their is a ground between the ground wire group on the manifold and the head. Need to ask if you followed procedure to insure preservation of crank to cam timing when you took off the head: Did you set the engine to TDC and cams aligned before pulling head? Pinned the cam timing chain hydraulic tensioner back first? Kept timing chain from falling off the crank sprocket by keeping the chain pulled tight while the cams were out and head off? Reinstalled the cams to correct timing, and with the chain that never came off the crank sprocket? Valve clearances all good? Engine was rotated with the head off? Yeah, basic stuff, but like I said, I need to ask in order to help eliminate what has happened.
 

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I assume K20Z3 engine then. I have the same engine. You said you never got the crank pulley bolt lose, so you "reassembled everything". As far as the marks on the timing chain and the marks on the cam sprockets, these line up INITIALLY when a new chain is installed, when: 1) the engine is TDC on the crank and the first chain mark is aligned with the sprocket mark on the crank sprocket, 2) that the cams are installed with their marks directly opposite each other (nearest point, horizontally) and with the cam pins installed at the rear, and then the two chain marks are at the top of each of those cam sprockets. Once this initial alignment, the marks don't sync up again in cadence. So, the question remains about what you DID disassemble: Did you have the cams removed from the timing chain? If you have removed the cams, and if you have let the timing chain slacken to the point it came off the chain sprocket on the crank, and if you rotated the engine trying to break the crank pulley bolt loose, then you will have to re-time the cams with the crank, from the start. Understand that if the cams (and their valves) are out of time with the crank (and the pistons), that trying to start the engine in this condition could cause engine damage, as a valve may be open at the inappropriate time that a piston is moved to the top of its stroke, where there is then a collision. If that has happened, then very likely valve(s) have been been bent, and possibly pistons have been damaged. Do you have a Honda Factory Shop Manual for 2006-2011 Civic?
 

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It's a 2008 civic si.

Come to think of it I don't think I can hear it. I don't have an after market fuel rail with a Gauge to be able to check pressure.
Fuel pressure can be checked without an aftermarket fuel rail. An easy check to determine if the fuel pump is running is turn the ignition key to ON and listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on. Obviously this will require two people: One to turn the key to the ON position and the other to listen for the fuel pump. If it is quiet, you should be able to hear the fuel pump while sitting in the drivers seat. It sounds like a brief and quiet hum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just replaced that today and it sounds great, but it still isn't starting. It'll turn the engine sometimes for a sec when I first turn the key to start it. I've pulled the spark plugs to check for fuel o. Them. They were clean but I use so.e carb cleaner anyway. I might replace them just to see if it changes anything.

Also, someti es I hear a putting sound fro. The exhaust whe. Trying to start it.

If I have time tomorrow, I'll try to make a video.
 
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