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2006 Si coupe

Okay so I rear ended my friend because a guy in front of him brake checked really hard. had to replace the radiator, radiator support, hood, and headlights. When I hit him I tapped his towing hitch on his truck. So I got new tires and an alignment after I replaced all of that. Could this small hit be enough to tweak the frame and cause my car to pull to the right? I do not understand it. I haven't noticed a pull to the right until I got these new tires and the alignment. I took the car back to the shop already and they rotated the tires. I matched the rid height perfectly on my coilovers in the front yesterday. I know the answers are here im just a little confused what it could be because of my situation. KW coilovers Axis OG 17x10
 

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Bump to revive this post!

I've had the exact same issue described by most of the users here including the OP!

I have a 08 Mugen Si.

It pulls to the right ever since I bought it (used) in 2013. I've done tons of alignments, had 3 sets of tires (they wear out fast for some reason, in 5 years, almost going for my 4th set). Replaced outer tie rods twice. Checked suspension. Went to 3 different dealerships and 4-5 non-dealership shops. They all have different opinions.

But I believe the closest a shop has gotten to the problem is to this one shop that specializes in electrical steering racks. They serviced my steering rack and also replaced inner tie rods on both ends. This one mechanic (26 years in steering racks experience) said these steering racks have some sort of "angle" sensors that attempt to level the steering wheel and the car as well, or something like this (I am not an expert). Anyway, he said this angle sensor could have a miscalibration and suggested to replace whole steering rack. He said this MIGHT get rid of this pulling to the right phenomenon, since the EPS electrical motor is trying to level the car based on the sensor's readings, but in reality it's pulling it to the right.

It is quite annoying driving on the highway and it always pulls to the right, doesn't matter what side of the crown you are at, it eventually goes to the right. And on my car it's getting worse over the years. It's not alignment, it's not balance, rims, tires, etc. That stuff was just the beginning...It's something else I guess.

So eventually my next troubleshooting step would be to replace steering rack, but oh man is it expensive!

Any ideas anyone?

Cheers :)
 

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I read somewhere that uneven tire wear could cause this issue. I tracked on mine, screwed them up and my car started to pull to the right too.

(It’s been a while, so I have a newer suspension. Koni Oranges up front and Koni Yellow Out Back, sitting on Neuspeed Sport Springs and Camber kit front and back, and Progress RSB).

Yeah that’s probably part of my issue. But I think I changed the tire pressure in those tires (old tires that I no longer have), and the problem got fixed I think?

Currently, I had 4 tires of the same type - Continental Extreme Contact DW. While the stupid shop that replaced my damaged tire (front right) with Continent ProContact All Season bullish!t tire, that’s when the problem started. So, I basically have 3 UHP Summer tires, and one grocery getter A/S tire on my front right. Seams like the LSD is putting power to the tire with more traction- the DW. While the new A/S Tire has a slightly higher tread and less sticky grip. All of these points I brought up when I picked up the car. I’m going to rotate the Conti DWs that I have in the rear back to the front and see what happens. That costs me nothing but a few minutes. If the problem goes away, I have my answer. While Ian at it, I will inspect my tie rod on the right side for any bends. That’s the side with the new tire that I hate, and the side I hit the curb on. It could also be my motor mounts being that the car is 9 years old and has 101k on the clock. I’ll update after I rotate.
 

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Get an alignment tool and do your own alignments forever $210.
https://www.wheelalignmenttools.com/product/2-wheel-alignment-system/

I just got one because I was tired of getting ripped off for a half ass alignment. All the shops want to do is adjust the toe nut on the tie rod and call it done. Watch them next time to see if they even pull a wheel because the camber can't be adjusted without pulling the front wheels. They also cheat the machine to print out everything is within spec. A day at the shop and $100 just to adjust the tie rod nut??? Come on! What a rip!

I used to get all new tires and an alignment and still wonder why my car pulled and my steering wheel was not exactly straight.

After doing my first alignment last week, my car has never rolled this straight EVER! My wheel is perfectly straight and it rolls perfectly straight which so nice.

I got an alignment(toe adjust) at ntb a week before I got the tool. I checked the alignment specs myself and the toe was just barely in spec and the camber was off everywhere so I know they ALL do half ass alignments. It takes time to do an alignment correctly and the shops just don't put the time in. They need to adjust everything and take it for a test drive. Then check specs again and adjust again. Then test drive again and then check specs again until correct. Like I said they adjust one nut and call it done. I adjusted until the specs were perfect, not just within the specified RANGE.

I just regret not buying the alignment tool years ago.
 

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Get an alignment tool and do your own alignments forever $210.
https://www.wheelalignmenttools.com/product/2-wheel-alignment-system/

I just got one because I was tired of getting ripped off for a half ass alignment. All the shops want to do is adjust the toe nut on the tie rod and call it done. Watch them next time to see if they even pull a wheel because the camber can't be adjusted without pulling the front wheels. They also cheat the machine to print out everything is within spec. A day at the shop and $100 just to adjust the tie rod nut??? Come on! What a rip!

I used to get all new tires and an alignment and still wonder why my car pulled and my steering wheel was not exactly straight.

After doing my first alignment last week, my car has never rolled this straight EVER! My wheel is perfectly straight and it rolls perfectly straight which so nice.

I got an alignment(toe adjust) at ntb a week before I got the tool. I checked the alignment specs myself and the toe was just barely in spec and the camber was off everywhere so I know they ALL do half ass alignments. It takes time to do an alignment correctly and the shops just don't put the time in. They need to adjust everything and take it for a test drive. Then check specs again and adjust again. Then test drive again and then check specs again until correct. Like I said they adjust one nut and call it done. I adjusted until the specs were perfect, not just within the specified RANGE.

I just regret not buying the alignment tool years ago.
Funny you mention that tool. My friend Dave (He had recently moved to Oregon and retired), has a manual alignment tool that he used for his race truck.

Here’s an update on my situation: I rotated the mismatch tires to the rear and guess what, car drive straight and true like it always had.

The mismatch tread and the millimeters difference in tread depth was making the car trail right. So, problem is solved for $Free.99

The alignment that I just had done at Sears Auto Center (I had a Groupon Discount so I didn’t pay full price), brought the cars alignment back to factory spec. 2 years ago I had 714Tires tweet my front camber to about -1.0 on both sides, and the rear - Factory specs.

When I took my car Valvoline Instant Oil Change they couldn’t ever rotate my tires because my car sits too low for them. And I’m on Neuspeed Springs... And I didn’t have a car jack for the longest time, nor a place to do it (tire rotation) on my own, so now, I’m gonna have to buy 4 new tires when the fronts go. Which is unfortunate because my rears have plenty of tread, but can never be mounted in the front. SMDH...
 

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2008 civic si with 73,XXX miles, here. Zero issues with pulling towards any direction. I live in Phoenix, AZ. There are ALOT of construction zones both highway and city streets directly in the path of my daily commute. And with consideration to modern road concave design, I still don’t notice pulling. I’m a stickler for oddities, and high attention to fine detail. With that in mind, I’m always inspecting and watching closely for design flaws or issues with my vehicles. Overall, my experience with said SI has been amazing. It handles great in 100% stock form. High speed, low speed.
 

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Funny you mention that tool. My friend Dave (He had recently moved to Oregon and retired), has a manual alignment tool that he used for his race truck.

Here’s an update on my situation: I rotated the mismatch tires to the rear and guess what, car drive straight and true like it always had.

The mismatch tread and the millimeters difference in tread depth was making the car trail right. So, problem is solved for $Free.99

The alignment that I just had done at Sears Auto Center (I had a Groupon Discount so I didn’t pay full price), brought the cars alignment back to factory spec. 2 years ago I had 714Tires tweet my front camber to about -1.0 on both sides, and the rear - Factory specs.

When I took my car Valvoline Instant Oil Change they couldn’t ever rotate my tires because my car sits too low for them. And I’m on Neuspeed Springs... And I didn’t have a car jack for the longest time, nor a place to do it (tire rotation) on my own, so now, I’m gonna have to buy 4 new tires when the fronts go. Which is unfortunate because my rears have plenty of tread, but can never be mounted in the front. SMDH...
UPDATE, car is pulling to the right again. I drove out of a parking garage quickly and the bottom of car scrapped the road. It was sorta hard, but not terrible. Ever since then, car has been pulling right. Switched out to Tein H tech springs, and got another alignment, still pulls right. Mechanic said that my front passenger side strut mount is bad? I didn't replace it.

I also notice that the more power I put down, the more it pulls to the right. Could it be my helical factory LSD acting up? Should I take it to the dealership for a professional diagnosis???
 
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