8th Generation Honda Civic Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I need some quick-ish help. I'm trying to replace my rear pads and rotors and after some bolts being a pain in the a$$ to get loose even with a breaker-bar I finally got all off but one! No matter what tool I use I can not get the last bolt off the caliper bracket off. I've tried wrenches, breaker bars a ratchet nothing will make it move. Is my only option an impact wrench? I could barely fit a breaker bar in there but I'm running out of options
 

·
Binks
Joined
·
18,140 Posts
The front brake caliper bolts are torqued at 80ft-lbs from factory. Since it's your first time loosening them in about 10 years, they will be extremely tough to remove. Definitely, use penetrating fluid. Then a breaker bar. If that doesn't work, use a torch on the bolt to break down the seized threads. Try to turn the steering wheel so you can have a better access to the bolts.

Make sure you torque the bolts back to factory spec once you're done with this project!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Try adding a pipe to the end of the breaker bar to get more leverage. Use a 6 point socket as well as it gives better contact with the bolt. Aside from the use of penetrants, tightening a stuck bolt slightly (take care when you do this) can help brake it free.

Failing that your going to need an electric/pneumatic or manual impact wrench, the latter costs less but requires more clearance since the head of the tool has to be hit with a hammer.

(check out the crappy tire flyer this week, they have an electric impact wrench on sale - I have a similar one that is a bit smaller and its great for doing tire rotation and seasonal tire changes).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the help guys, it was ridiculous nothing worked at all. It also didn't help that the car (EX-L) has the rear calipers "flipped" the other direction and you can't get any tool in there with out removing brake lines completely. I had to take it to a shop to get them to remove the bolt and they pretty much destroyed it just to get it off. I knew I should have bought an impact wrench even before I started it.

@RedCoupe, Yeah I found a small Dewalt that probably would have worked decent enough or I could have removed a few other bolts to have gotten a better angle. Next time I replace my pads I'll be prepared and jack the car up a different way. I could only get one jack-stand under the car possibly the weight of the right rear still being on through the car's weight off balance?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
The joys of frozen bolts. If they ruined it while taking it off with shop grade air tools you didn't have a chance.

I assume you lifted the rear end from the centre tow/jack point? I have noticed a slight balanced bias on the front end of my coupe (low on driver side) but I don't recall it at the rear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The joys of frozen bolts. If they ruined it while taking it off with shop grade air tools you didn't have a chance.

I assume you lifted the rear end from the centre tow/jack point? I have noticed a slight balanced bias on the front end of my coupe (low on driver side) but I don't recall it at the rear.
Yeah.. kind of question when the car had it's rotors replaced if a bolt was on that tight and assuming it was takin' to a dealer or done correctly why the bolt would have been that much of a problem. At this point everything is going to be replaced with aftermarket parts lol all new pads/rotors/calipers.

Yeah I figured the tow hook would have been the easier/safer spot to start then I'd put the stands on the side "lips" next to the rear wheel but could only get one under the car as if the car was tilting to the right side more when I only had the left rear wheel off.. but didn't have that problem with the fronts
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top