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Discussion Starter #1
I was repairing 2 spots on my hood and fender, there were too big for touch up paint. I went to a paint store and had them match the paint and got a spray can type of paint. I also got a spray can of clear coat. I sprayed the spots yesterday with paint and clear coat, but they still look ugly. The paint seems to be matching the color, but the surface is no where near smooth as the OEM paint. So you can pretty much still see the 2 spots even after I repainted it.

Is is possible to achieve the look of OEM paint with just a spray can of paint and a can of clear coat? I did about 3 coats of paint, and 3 coats of clear coat, but like I said the surface is still dull...
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
no, I was gonna wet sand it with the sandpaper from the scratch fix kit and then use the ultra finishing compound to buff it out, but since I have never done it before, I start to doubt that it will come out looking nice.

I still have to wait another 12 hours or so for the stuff to dry first. So you are saying after wet sanding and buffing, it should look like original paint?

Also if I don't have that ultra finishing compound or whatever, what should I use to buff it?

Ok here are the pictures.
















 

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Poor prep. Layed the paint too thick. Tape lines will never come out right.
Redo it or have a Pro do it.

Sand the area again, start with a low grit around 180 (with a sanding block) step up to around 600 grit. When you think you have it, get a piece of paper, slide it over the repair area. If you can't feel the sanded area throught the paper, it's ready for Primer. To do this right you need to mask off all except the panel your painting. ( if you are doing the bumper, mask off everything except the bumper. You'll need to rough up the rest of the bumper with 600+ grit paper. (Rough it means just that, sand till it's rough to the touch it doesn't take much). In the area repaired, feather out your base in light coats (if you get it all covered on the first spray, you are doing it wrong). Then Clear the whole bumper ( 2 to 3 coats, a little heavier, but not too much. Over-lap each pass 50%) Get a space heater and set it up close to the repair area to heat it up ( Paint Booths literally bake the paint @ 180-+ degrees) but DON'T get it too hot, that's another problem if you do. That's Cliff notes to painting, if this is your first time, don't expect it to be perfect. GL
 

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i dont think you will get that 'original' look but a pro can get close. if it bothers you that much get the whole panel repainted. but wet sanding will somewhat smooth out the tape edges
 

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This looks exactly like what happened to me on my wife's car.

I've been using her 99 Camry as a guinea pig because it has rust spots.

You can actually get those tape lines out with careful sanding. It takes a lot of work, and you may remove too much surrounding material. Just work one side down at a time and stay on the edge (slight overlap) of the tape line.

One thing I had some success with was cutting a mask into a sheet of heavy paper. Cut out a two or three inch oval. Then hold the mask about 1/2" above the surface and sweep the spray across. The distance of the mask will "feather" the edges of the spray on the surface. You can then use 2000 or 3000 grit sandpaper to wet sand until even with the surface.

Repeat this with the clear if you aren't seeing a good match.

When you get it smooth, use some rubbing compound (I use Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound) and a terry or MF covered sponge to polish it up. Make it random -- up, down, diagonal, swirl, etc.

No, I'm not a pro, but it worked for me on the Camry and it looks pretty damn good. :thumb:
 
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