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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I recieved one wheel for test fitments on the SI to see what width wheel we can run and what camber we can get away with without running into interference with the Damper housings. Everyone talks about running these wide ass wheels but then run the stock alignment BLAH!! This is why this thread is in here and NOT in the wheel and tire area cause this has more to do with aligment and clearances. ;)

As you can see from the attached picture I will need to do 2 things. Roll the fenders, and get a small spacer if I plan on running anymore than roughly -1 degree as it sits now.

The wheels are 17x8 +35. As it sits it is at 0 degrees of camber, I tested it and the most I could get until interference was -1 :( And this was just with the RIM not even with the Tire on which will reduce clearances even MORE.

I will continue to update this thread with a solution to the issue. As most of us track junkies want to be running 245's but we need the camber we need to find a solution to this. :thumb: My inital thought is that a VERY good camber/caster plate will be fabricated as the bolts will increase the interference between the wheel and the uprights.


 

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Thats a bad ass wheel. How much does it weigh? I run 17x8 with a +45 and a 235 tire and i don't rub (barely once the paint on the shock body gets rubbed away) and i have more than -1 degrees. Shouldn't a +35 offset have that wheel even further away from the shock body than my +45 offset?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah..It should allow for even more clearance but its close as it is now :(

Its heavy but cheap thats why I got it ;) 9.0kgs
 

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sweet keep update highrev1....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am so used to a 15" wheel :( Old car ;)

It does feel lighter than that in my hand though. I will weight it for you...Just to be sure.

And the next picture will have different brakes behind those wheels ;)
 

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now Greg, are you adjusting the camber with the top bolt or the bottom one? and would that actually make a difference as far as available space?
- because if the eccentric bolt is in the top hole, then effectively while adding negative camber you would be "pulling" the top of the wheel inward to obtain it.
- but if the eccentric bolt were in the bottom hole, then we would be "pushing" the bottom away from the housing to obtain the camber.
SO THEREFORE, is there a possible difference in clearance by adjusting the angle from the top or bottom? and even if there is, is it a big enough difference to really concern ourselves with in regards to paying attention to clearance?


ON A SIDE NOTE: if we adjust camber with the bottom hole rather than the top hole, are we not (to some miniscule extent) also increasing our track width some minute amount? since we would be "pushing" that lower connection outward to obtain the neg. camber?
.....yummy track width. :smile:


by the way i'm really really interested in your findings because the wheels i want for my car are the exact same specifications as yours. :smile:
 

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Lucas, i was going to blow your theory out of the water until i visualized it in my head, and i think your theory holds water. However, i dont see it being enough to make a noticealbe difference.

I say it would increase track.
 

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you should also do a write up with after market shocks as well. tein's are wider in diamter so you will have to compinsate even more! good write up though highrev!
 

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Sirbelch said:
Lucas, i was going to blow your theory out of the water until i visualized it in my head, and i think your theory holds water. However, i dont see it being enough to make a noticealbe difference.

I say it would increase track.
haha, yeah, i know its probably not worth considering, but it's been a topic that has been rattling around upstairs for a while now. :D
 

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18x8 with +48 offset and 225tires, -1.7 camber up front, clearance is a couple of mm, I would prefer more but there is no rub. I think I have been lossing inner balance weights from rub though. I think with +35 and two camber bolts you should have no issues with inner clearance.
 

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El_mahone said:
18x8 with +48 offset and 225tires, -1.7 camber up front, clearance is a couple of mm, I would prefer more but there is no rub. I think I have been lossing inner balance weights from rub though. I think with +35 and two camber bolts you should have no issues with inner clearance.
so you lost about .6 inches of inner clearance, but have no rub...plus with that much neg. camber?
...and you only went with a 10mm wider tire, while getting an inch wider wheel than stock?
...so you're not getting tire rub, but wheel rub against the damper tubing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
06sicoupe said:
you should also do a write up with after market shocks as well. tein's are wider in diamter so you will have to compinsate even more! good write up though highrev!
:redface: Sorry I wouldn't bother to ever have teins to use :iorun:

Absoutly Top or bottom bolts help/hurt clearance.

Lucas, for the most part RIGHT....Except for ALL of IT :p No I am just kidding ROFLMAO....:wavey:

But for real...They both minimize clearance, yes the lower bolt in theory would push the bottom of the wheel out, but it is located in the center of the wheel which causes the whole top half to move inwards reducing clearance. I think in theory you do gain more Neg camber from the lower bolt, but either bolt does reduce clearacne. Been boozing as usual on Thursdays so I am woozie ;) But I have to acutally figure out which is best to utalize and what to do about gaining the camber without the clearance issue at hand.

I got a +35 guifring that would be great enough for clearance and clearly it isn't :( Well make it happen though ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I would rep you if I could...As usual...That is acutally pretty close, just reversed some letters there, better than normal in the condition I am in ;)

Either way I have to measure how much the top bolt and the bottom bolt chage in MM depending on camber, I will try to get a chart up shortly added to this thread :D Like a Max and a MIN for each bolt somthing easier for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I am thinking a 5mm spacer would allow for clearance but then would absoutly require roller the fenders where now I may be able to get away with it? What do you guys think?
 

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Roll the fenders anyway that way you can just start from the maximum amout of space. This way you wont check 10 different camber and offset settings and then have to recheck them after you roll the fender. My fenders are getto rolled ( i did a horrible job)
 
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