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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a 2008 civic si and I’ve replaced the rear calipers and hoses. Now my car pulls left under heavy braking and sometimes under light braking. Strangely my steering wheel turns slightly right as my front end pulls left. But when Cornering and braking i can feel as if the rear wants to rotate. I’ve bled the brakes twice and still the problem is there. Any of you all experienced this? Also my calipers I purchased from eBay.
 

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Looks like your left side brakes are biting more than the right and pulling the car to the left under heavy braking.

Did you change the brake pads also while changing the calipers? Because unevenly worn out brake pads do cause such an issue.

In case you've changed your pads, then you may need to check the brake hoses and calipers for equal bite.

Trust that you've already checked the wheel alignment.

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Discussion Starter #3
I changed the rear calipers, pads and rotors. Already performed an alignment to oem specifications. Never checked the front. I was also thinking the if the si has a proportion valve for the brakes?
 

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I changed the rear calipers, pads and rotors. Already performed an alignment to oem specifications. Never checked the front. I was also thinking the if the si has a proportion valve for the brakes?
I don't think that the Si has proportion valves for the brakes.

Since the rear brake setup is as good as new, suggest that you check the front ones for any uneven wear.

I'm facing a similar problem now. Due to COVID lockdown I haven't been using my car for the past 3 months and the front right caliper piston got slightly rusted and jammed. Since it is not possible to buy spares now, I got the piston cleaned and had to replace the new pad with a used one to keep the piston from jamming again until I replace it with new one. So the front left has a new pad and the front right has a used one. This difference is causing the car to pull to the left slightly under heavy braking.

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Discussion Starter #5
I forgot to mention it started doing this once I replaced the rear calipers. Should I also replace the rear calipers with Honda ones vs Chinese ones? I’ll check the fronts for uneven wear today after work
 

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Did you properly lube the guide pins? That is a most common cause of brakes not applying evenly.

I'd think the Chinese calipers would work right out of the box. There's not that much they can screw up when they remanufacture them. Assuming they are the right dimensionally.

Does your pedal feel firm? You mentioned you bled the brakes - did you do the whole system starting with LF, then RF, RR, LR? I was wondering if perhaps one of the fronts didn't get all the air out of the lines.

Good luck.
 

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I forgot to mention it started doing this once I replaced the rear calipers. Should I also replace the rear calipers with Honda ones vs Chinese ones? I’ll check the fronts for uneven wear today after work
Personally I dont trust the Chinese calipers unless they are of first quality from a reputed brand. If not Honda ones, I would prefer EBC or Brembo OE replacement ones.

Just like Glen has pointed out in the earlier post, suggest that you recheck the lubrication and also the bleeding of the brake hoses has to be done in a specific pattern only. Please try redoing it in the suggested pattern, since you said the pulling started only after replacing the rear calipers.

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Discussion Starter #8
Did you properly lube the guide pins? That is a most common cause of brakes not applying evenly.

I'd think the Chinese calipers would work right out of the box. There's not that much they can screw up when they remanufacture them. Assuming they are the right dimensionally.

Does your pedal feel firm? You mentioned you bled the brakes - did you do the whole system starting with LF, then RF, RR, LR? I was wondering if perhaps one of the fronts didn't get all the air out of the lines.

Good luck.
I bled them RR,LF,RF,LF. I haven’t lubed the guide pins on the front. Should I try to bled them starting with the LF?
 

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Honda service manual says to bleed LF-RF-RR-LR. I'd try that.

Since you didn't touch the front brake pins I wouldn't think they are the issue.

Good luck.
 

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Yes bleed brakes if not already done. Interesting the fronts are recommended to be done first. The front and rear are separate circuits so should not matter.

Btw all modern vehicles have some form of proportion valve but most are a fixed restriction built into the system. Few are correct just from caliper piston diameter only.


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Honda service manual says to bleed LF-RF-RR-LR. I'd try that.

Since you didn't touch the front brake pins I wouldn't think they are the issue.

Good luck.
You are supposed to start from the back of the car when bleeding the brakes. Starting from the wheel furthest away from the brake master cylinder - Passenger Rear, then Driver's side rear, then Passenger side front, last driver's side front. I did this in August/September 2019 when I upgraded to TSX front calipers, and it went without a hitch.
 

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hi friends. I also agree with re-bleeding the brakes as the first check, in the proper order. I experienced a similar issue when i changed my brake piston seals and didn't have time to bleed the brakes properly before going to work. The air in that side caused less pressure applied on that side, causing the car to pull to one side.
 

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The manual says to start from the front, most cars you start from the back furthest from the brake master cylinder. This sounds more like a frozen caliper on one side. If the slide pins move freely. Go for a drive and use a laser thermometer on the brakes. The one that is much hotter is the frozen side. The oe level scanners also have an abs bleed to toggle the abs and ensure no air bubbles get trapped in the abs system.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The manual says to start from the front, most cars you start from the back furthest from the brake master cylinder. This sounds more like a frozen caliper on one side. If the slide pins move freely. Go for a drive and use a laser thermometer on the brakes. The one that is much hotter is the frozen side. The oe level scanners also have an abs bleed to toggle the abs and ensure no air bubbles get trapped in the abs system.
Oe level scanners? I originally thought I might have got some air trapped in the ABS module. But I will pressure bleed it at work.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The manual says to start from the front, most cars you start from the back furthest from the brake master cylinder. This sounds more like a frozen caliper on one side. If the slide pins move freely. Go for a drive and use a laser thermometer on the brakes. The one that is much hotter is the frozen side. The oe level scanners also have an abs bleed to toggle the abs and ensure no air bubbles get trapped in the abs system.
I will have to try that. When I first installed the calipers I had one side wearing more than the other. I lubed the slides and now it looks to wear ok, but it’s still pulling. I will drive it tomorrow and use the laser to test temp. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hi friends. I also agree with re-bleeding the brakes as the first check, in the proper order. I experienced a similar issue when i changed my brake piston seals and didn't have time to bleed the brakes properly before going to work. The air in that side caused less pressure applied on that side, causing the car to pull to one side.
I originally tried using a vacuum bleeder and it didn’t work well. And I bled them by using someone pumping and me cracking open the bleeder. But I’m going to pressure bleed them and hopefully it fixes my issue. Thanks for the help.
 
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