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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So today I went for some driving around curvy roads because I was really bored. And we stopped after 3 miles, we could smell the brakes. We waited for five minutes to let them cool down before we drove off.

My question is I wasnt even braking hard, and the smell occured. How bad of a sign is this?

I ask because next weekend Im traveling with friends again on the curves and this time it wont be for 3 miles more like 20+, Im worried that I will hurt my car....

I wasnt racing or driving like a monkey on crack.......
 

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Doesn't sound like it damaged anything. The smell itself is just the brakes while undergoing through the stress of hard turns. I have seen a civic after some canyon running and the calibers were litterally red.
 

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Six eyes
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Is the car new, or are they new brakes? New pads can smell a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The car has 5000+ miles on it, and this was the first time I had hard driven her hard. After the last oil change they said I had 95% of my pads left (front and Back), and that was less that 400 miles ago.
 

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Were you trail braking?

Resting your foot on the brake tempts you to press it slightly, resulting in lots of heating as well. - That's what my old driving instructor told me (he took me offroad and he's an ex rallyer)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Were you trail braking?

Resting your foot on the brake tempts you to press it slightly, resulting in lots of heating as well. - That's what my old driving instructor told me (he took me offroad and he's an ex rallyer)
No, not at all; just to slow down before the turns
 

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Six eyes
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The car has 5000+ miles on it, and this was the first time I had hard driven her hard. After the last oil change they said I had 95% of my pads left (front and Back), and that was less that 400 miles ago.
If that was the first time you've driven it hard, it could be the first time the pads have seen any significant heat build-up, which would explain the smell. I wouldn't worry about it... next time out, there probably won't be any smell at all.

That's what my old driving instructor told me (he took me offroad and he's an ex rallyer)
Wow, Aussie offroad must be amazing!
 

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On a side note... the fact that you stopped for 5 minutes while your brakes were smokin' hot isn't a good thing. Sitting still is the last way you want to cool brakes. When your brakes get HOT avoid at all costs having to stop for anything, try to cruise for a few minutes to let them cool, without any heavy braking. Don't be surprised if you develop a "warped rotor" feel sometime in the near future, it's probably pad residue.
 

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^^^^
:bsflag:


I ran Tail of the Dragon with my LX and the first time I ran the road my brakes where so hot that the fronts where pouring smoke, when we stopped I turned the car off and left in gear on a flat ground and let them cool for close to 10 mins and my rotors are fine.

BTW I have stock rotors with 44K on them and Ceramic Brake pads up front and stock drums in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Can someone second the warping of the rotors. I know what it is but im not sure how it occurs?
 

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Can someone second the warping of the rotors. I know what it is but im not sure how it occurs?
warped rotors happens over a period of time from heating up and cooling over many cycles. driving hard and really getting them hot will make them warp sooner and getting them hot/hitting a big puddle will really warp them fast. then you will have either a steering wheel shimmy and/or pedal pulsation under braking. you can fix this by machining the rotors until they are true again or just replace them.
 

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I'm getting this in my 2008 ex I just bought with 90,000 miles. It's just the rear passenger brakes though.

edit: i just drove it some more after giving the emergency brake a few good tug and releases (lol). It didn't seem to get nearly as hot.

could of it of been a stuck cable in the emergency brake system? i'm hoping it's not a semi-seized caliper :-/

i can tell you the rotors needs replaced, more so than the brake pads. i can do those fine, but when it comes to the caliper, i feel i don't have the skills or know how to replace a damaged one.
 

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If it's only got 5K on it and that's the first time you've driven it hard, it could also be the motor if the dealer didn't properly test drive it. When we take vehicles off the truck brand new and PDI them, nothing, but during the test drive we're required to drive them hard to make sure everything is A-OK. Afterwards the brakes AND the exhaust will have a nice odd smell to them.
 

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I'm getting this in my 2008 ex I just bought with 90,000 miles. It's just the rear passenger brakes though.

edit: i just drove it some more after giving the emergency brake a few good tug and releases (lol). It didn't seem to get nearly as hot.

could of it of been a stuck cable in the emergency brake system? i'm hoping it's not a semi-seized caliper :-/

i can tell you the rotors needs replaced, more so than the brake pads. i can do those fine, but when it comes to the caliper, i feel i don't have the skills or know how to replace a damaged one.
I just replaced pads on my '08 EX with comparable mileages and found some uneven & premature wear on the RH rear pads. If you are already into the rear brakes, completely remove the caliper slide pins for cleaning & relube. Once cleaned, reinsert the pins and work the pins to better distribute the lube. Then make sure the rubber boot seal is properly seated. This will ensure clean slide movement of the caliper on the pins. This normally stops caliper sticking. It's probably not the emergency brake system problem, likely these pins just need some extra TLC.
 

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I just replaced pads on my '08 EX with comparable mileages and found some uneven & premature wear on the RH rear pads. If you are already into the rear brakes, completely remove the caliper slide pins for cleaning & relube. Once cleaned, reinsert the pins and work the pins to better distribute the lube. Then make sure the rubber boot seal is properly seated. This will ensure clean slide movement of the caliper on the pins. This normally stops caliper sticking. It's probably not the emergency brake system problem, likely these pins just need some extra TLC.
thanks for the tip, i recall seeing a video on youtube of someone doing this to their EP3 civic which has the same setup. I'll watch it for a refresh

edit: ah it was viemo at the 4 minute mark
12 - DIYfrontbrakesWM on Vimeo
 

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Well I had the damnest time working with the rear brake caliper today.

First off my jack broke sometime between the lsat time i had the car up and now so i used the tire jack in the trunk.. lame

Second the caliper wouldn't want to come off the rotor. I need a tutorial on this or something, it doesn't raise off like the fronts. There seems to be a cable that isn't long enough for the caliper to get around the rotor.

i'm scratching my head on this one.. well i put everything back together and wasted about an hour messing with it.
 

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Well I had the damnest time working with the rear brake caliper today.

First off my jack broke sometime between the lsat time i had the car up and now so i used the tire jack in the trunk.. lame

Second the caliper wouldn't want to come off the rotor. I need a tutorial on this or something, it doesn't raise off like the fronts. There seems to be a cable that isn't long enough for the caliper to get around the rotor.

i'm scratching my head on this one.. well i put everything back together and wasted about an hour messing with it.
Yep...eventually used a pry bar & bfh to remove the rear calipers. Can't remember which side is worse but there was absolutely no slack in the cables/lines to clear the caliper over the rotor & new pads. Don't forget dealing with the slotted caliper piston which needs compressed & aligned to catch the tab on the back of the pad or the stainless spring clips that need the accumulated crud removed so the new pads slide freely. I can see what should be a relatively easy DIY job frustrating for those lacking experience, attention to detail, or patience.
 
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