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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Folks, I feel like someone kicked me in the nuts. Here is a quick run down of event. About two months ago I did a small road course even 1300 yards circuit with a lot of turns. My brakes were glowing, I even melted the center caps of my new Konig wheels. The pedal felt very spongy but remarkably the car was still braking OK.

Fast forward and I did a lot of research. A few brakepads names poped over and over like the Hawks DTC-60s, Stoptechs 309.. and a few others. I ended up buying the hawks DTC-60, motul RBF 660 fluid and putting Stoptech Stainless steel lines.

I paid a shop to do the job and I think they fucked it all up. My car pulsates like crazy as if the ABS is pulling left right, front and back, it is bad!!! much worse than the previous brakes pads. I spoke with a buddy of mine and he told me that these cars (2009 SI) with the ABS module you have to do a full flush using a scanner and opening and closing the ABS valve in a specific sequence.

What is very confusing to me is that I see lots of videos on YouTube with people using turkey blasters, syringes and just doing a half flush of the brake system. Sucking the fluid of the brake reservoir is not a full flush.

Can someone direct me to the correct way of a full brake fluid flush? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well.. here is an update. I took the car back to the shop. We went for a test drive but i was offered a explanation that sank in too well and I am almost convinced it coud be true. The new brake pads are so graby that it locks the rotors too easily and thus making the ABS engage.
Moreover, I never seen that huge amount of brake pads dust coming out of my discs in such quantity, it is ridiculous. I barely put any miles on the car after the brake pads installation but i have done probably about 15-20 hard braking(stops).

What I am thinking is that the wear on these pads tremendous and I see how the pads are wearing that fast..they are grabbing the rotors too hard. To rule out any other issues what i am going to do is to slap the original brake pads again because not a single time they made the ABS kick in even at hard stops.

If the oem pads don't cause the ABS to activate/interviene prematurely then I will know that the Hawk DTC-60 is the problem. Stay tune.
 

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Brakes pads being to good so that the ABS comes on makes no sense to me. Unless the wheels are actually locking up the ABS shouldn't be activating. I don't want to say any specific until you try it again with the previous pads.

Aggressive pads like those will dust a lot. I had their HPS pads and they stopped great but would dust a lot. As my car is mostly for the street I got some stoptech street pads. No more dusting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well... not so good news. I put the stock brakepads in again and the problem persist. The ABS activates as soon as you hit the brake pedal firmly which never ever had happened in the entire ownership of the car.

It is very clear to me that when the guys let all the fluid out air probably got into the ABS module and is throwing it off. I just can't think of any other explanation. At this point, my only hope is to take it to the dealership or to find a good YouTube tutorial video fixing the same issue as the one that I have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took the car to a different shop and they told me that there is a chance that the fluid was not properly flshed /bleed. The owner of the shop is a know road course racer that is very familiar with the brakes. He was telling me that the stainless steel braided lines might have made such a big difference on the braking by making the brake pedal much firmer and therefore applying more pressure to the lines/caliper. That might explain why now it has a tendency to engage the ABS so quick.

If someone knows for sure of you need to connect the scanner and have the ABS modeule valves open and close individually for bleedeing please I would appreciate link it video or a reference.
 
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