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Discussion Starter #1
So I got the boomba mounts and now having a little trouble getting them in. The top mount went in no problem but the rear one has been giving me troubles. The bolt that is horizontal will not come out. I even put an impact wrench on it and nothing. I jacked the motor up a little bit to take some pressure off the bolt but still nothing..

I followed the instructions except the fact I am taking a stock mount out then putting the boomba in. The directions show to take all 3 out first then put the boombas in...Is this what I need to do?


Any tips are appreciated!

Thanks!

--Derek
 

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Sorry but you're not following the indirections. If you were then you would've not installed the top mount like the instructions tell you to until the end. The OEM mounts need to be removed top, front & rear. Installed in the reverse rear, front & top.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I figured that's why. But i just wanna make sure having all three mounts out at the same time wont drop the motor or anything right?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Damn dude. I took the top one out. Now I am working on the front mount and cannot get the 2 out of 4 bolts to break loose (The harder to reach ones)...Any tips?
 

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Never really done anything more then the basic moding, but I always wondered, what is the point in changing the mounts? Are they not all the same, other then aftermarket dresses the engine bay up a little??
 

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J/C have you installed the Boomba torque rods before?
I have, I used a breaker bar for most of the bolts on the torque mounts. There will be one or two on the front mount that you won't be able to get to if your using jack stands. Thats where I used a socket wrench and a pipe to gain some leverage to break them loose.
 

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Never really done anything more then the basic moding, but I always wondered, what is the point in changing the mounts? Are they not all the same, other then aftermarket dresses the engine bay up a little??
Stiffens up the motor from moving excessively in the engine bay, prevent the header from hitting the subframe, improves shifting at the cost of rattling in the cabin.
 
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