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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have a black coupe and everything and anything shows up on it...

cleaning the inside im good with and have some little tricks and all i use, an air compressor is kick-A

i just used the Meguires swirl remover last night and it worked like a champ, i could really notice the difference in before and afters with the lights overhead. How often should that be used?

What kind of waxes work best for a black car? How often should I use them?

what are some good drying towels to use? my mom hates the fact that i waste electric using a leaf blower and my nieghbors think im nuts.

any help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks. does your waffel weave leave any fibers? all the towels i have for when i wash, leaves fibers behind but the same kind i use for removing wax that wasnt buffed doesnt leave anything behind.
 

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As for towels, for drying I am a big fan of Waffle Weaves: ShowroomFX towel is THE BOMB!
Microfiber Drying Towel

And with this towel, you only need one to dry your car (just remember to sheet the water off- use a hose with no nozzle and make the water gather together and shortly after you will be left with almost nothing to dry.

By far the best towel I used as it just keeps absorbing water. Also the least expensive at $8.99, but shipping is going to suck ($5-6) But still much cheaper than any other vendor.

As for wax, what is your price range? I have many recommendations for each budget range. If you ever need any help with detailing products, feel free to PM me :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i did the water thing last night and it seemed to work but i may have had too much water flow. not sure how low to set it but it seemed to sorta work.

those towels seem good, i like the size and price. may have to buy 4 and keep two hidden at the fire house to help justify that shipping cost. i tend to wash my towels and store them in a ziplock bag when dry to keep dust and other crap off of them.

what are good towels for removing wax? i usually use an electric buffer then hit it over with a towel and elbow grease to get the hard to reach with a buffer spots and do a once over. i want something atleast 10x20

for the wax, doesnt really matter on price, somewhere in the middle is fine. is it better to use a spray on or a regular bottle and applicator pad?
 

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i did the water thing last night and it seemed to work but i may have had too much water flow. not sure how low to set it but it seemed to sorta work.

those towels seem good, i like the size and price. may have to buy 4 and keep two hidden at the fire house to help justify that shipping cost. i tend to wash my towels and store them in a ziplock bag when dry to keep dust and other crap off of them.

what are good towels for removing wax? i usually use an electric buffer then hit it over with a towel and elbow grease to get the hard to reach with a buffer spots and do a once over. i want something atleast 10x20

for the wax, doesnt really matter on price, somewhere in the middle is fine. is it better to use a spray on or a regular bottle and applicator pad?
Personally I would just buy two or three of these: Microfiber Detail Towel Might as well, to save shipping costs, and these are great towels. They are 16x16- thats the usual size, but some come in 16x24.

For the wax I really need a range, $50-100?, but the middle is around $5000... (seriously, highest cost is 10k, lowest is a few bucks). And what are you looking for in the wax? Durability, looks, ease of use? But 90% of the time I have to recommend a sealant as they are easier to use, last longer, and the newest ones look SWEET!

Different waxes have different application methods, usually spray waxes are used as touch ups to extend the life of a wax, but things like Optimum Car wax work well alone. As for those sprayable products, most of them if not all are actually sealants, which mean they dont contain any real wax. The best durability waxes are not even waxes but sealants (man made car protection using polymers and chemicals). Waxes are mainly paste as they contain Carnauba which is a very hard wax and to soften if they have to use solvents. (Well enough info on that :p )

My best recommendation to anyone looking for an LSP (last step product) is Menzena Power Lock Probably the best looking sealant and one of the easiest products I used. But its dumb IMO just to get one product and pay shipping, so if your there pick something else up such as CG EZ Creme Again, easy to use and makes your paint look a lot better. Use it before a sealant or wax.

Also, Detailed Image has a free product if you spend over $50. This week its CG Citrus Wash and Gloss, a nice soap, and really highly concentrated.

If you ever feel like buying a wax to make it look better, their are options but IF a day comes just PM me and I have many recommendations.
 

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I don't mean to thread jack, but I was wondering if instead of buying the microfiber drying towel online. Can it be purchased at a store?

I have a bunch of microfiber detailing towels but I don't have any drying towels and I have noticed I go through a lot of towels when trying to dry my car off with the detailing clothes.

-Matt-
 

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I am not a fan of microfibers. I have always used 100% cotton towels and I have no problems what so ever. My car is NHBP as well. MF always (for me at least) leave behind peach fuzz and I hate it. I use either Meguairs Gold CLass or Mothers Step 3 Carnauba. Car looks amazing! Paint literally, literally looks wet.
 

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I don't mean to thread jack, but I was wondering if instead of buying the microfiber drying towel online. Can it be purchased at a store?

I have a bunch of microfiber detailing towels but I don't have any drying towels and I have noticed I go through a lot of towels when trying to dry my car off with the detailing clothes.

-Matt-
Yes! Although they arent the best I found, the ones in Target are plenty good! They dont lint at all and arent harmful to paint. They have many types under the Vroom brand- drying, polishing, buffing, check them out ;)

I am not a fan of microfibers. I have always used 100% cotton towels and I have no problems what so ever. My car is NHBP as well. MF always (for me at least) leave behind peach fuzz and I hate it. I use either Meguairs Gold CLass or Mothers Step 3 Carnauba. Car looks amazing! Paint literally, literally looks wet.
Im sorry, but you have probably never used a quality MF towel... None of mine lint, well I had one, but other than that they leave nothing on the paint. Cotton towels will mar the paint finish, just you might not notice instantly. If you want to do a test if it will scratch, get a new CD and rub the towel across it with the same pressure you use on the car, check and inspect (you'll be surprised at the outcome). As for the waxes you listed, they are simply OK. GC fills, durability is crappy, and the Mothers 3 step are too time consuming and are just OK products too. The real look of the paint comes from the prep, 90% polishing, 10% last step product, with glazes adding some gloss, but not as much as jeweling the paint (PO85RD!! Yum). After a 2-3 step polish topped with a sealant like Menzerna Power Lock or wax like Lusso Oro, thats dripping wet!
 

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As mentioned by Luke8thgen, polishing is what will bring your vehicle to it's highest level of shine possible, not the wax that was used. We corrected this Mustang GT using a multi-step polishing process to permanently remove fine scratches and swirls. Here is a before and after (realize that there is NO wax on the car):



All done:

 

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I am not a fan of microfibers. I have always used 100% cotton towels and I have no problems what so ever. My car is NHBP as well. MF always (for me at least) leave behind peach fuzz and I hate it. I use either Meguairs Gold CLass or Mothers Step 3 Carnauba. Car looks amazing! Paint literally, literally looks wet.

Hmm interesting. I will look into 100% cotton towels. I imagine you could get a bundle for a cheap price. Man wet paint especially on a NHBP looks drop dead gorgeous. Looks very rich. I myself have NHBP. Gonna give that Meguairs swirlX 2.0 a try and see what happens. I have swirls buts its not too bad. I don't take my car through automatic washes period. Don't trust
them.

Can I get that Mothers Step Carnauba at an auto parts store?
-Matt-
 

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Yes! Although they arent the best I found, the ones in Target are plenty good! They dont lint at all and arent harmful to paint. They have many types under the Vroom brand- drying, polishing, buffing, check them out ;)


Ok cool thanks for the help! I will check out Target and see what selection they have.

-Matt-


Im sorry, but you have probably never used a quality MF towel... None of mine lint, well I had one, but other than that they leave nothing on the paint. Cotton towels will mar the paint finish, just you might not notice instantly. If you want to do a test if it will scratch, get a new CD and rub the towel across it with the same pressure you use on the car, check and inspect (you'll be surprised at the outcome). As for the waxes you listed, they are simply OK. GC fills, durability is crappy, and the Mothers 3 step are too time consuming and are just OK products too. The real look of the paint comes from the prep, 90% polishing, 10% last step product, with glazes adding some gloss, but not as much as jeweling the paint (PO85RD!! Yum). After a 2-3 step polish topped with a sealant like Menzerna Power Lock or wax like Lusso Oro, thats dripping wet!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I put the Meguirs swirl remover 2.0 on my car sunday night, got done around 1030, it was dark and in my garage and lighting wasnt that great. noticed yesterday when i got home that there was a few spots i didnt clean off completely and since it had rained over night, i saw some run off.

Is it going to hurt if some spots were missed? With that run off, was I putting it on too thick? How often should the swirl remover be put on?

I see the pricing can get high, so maybe for one product I will pay out up to $20-30. With that said, I want to bring out the shine in the black paint and it appears to do this, I need to go with shine products.

I want to polish, glaze, and seal. What products should I use? For the not the everyday'er, how long would this process take for polish, glaze, and sealing? Should I wax after I seal or can it be just as good without? The mustang picture seems to say I can go without the wax.

Thanks for all the help so far.
 

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I put the Meguirs swirl remover 2.0 on my car sunday night, got done around 1030, it was dark and in my garage and lighting wasnt that great. noticed yesterday when i got home that there was a few spots i didnt clean off completely and since it had rained over night, i saw some run off.

Is it going to hurt if some spots were missed? With that run off, was I putting it on too thick? How often should the swirl remover be put on?

I see the pricing can get high, so maybe for one product I will pay out up to $20-30. With that said, I want to bring out the shine in the black paint and it appears to do this, I need to go with shine products.

I want to polish, glaze, and seal. What products should I use? For the not the everyday'er, how long would this process take for polish, glaze, and sealing? Should I wax after I seal or can it be just as good without? The mustang picture seems to say I can go without the wax.

Thanks for all the help so far.
First things first, a swirl remover is to be used to removed swirls and buffed off right after you are done that section. You do not use it thick at all, as you are working in the abrasives and not spreading like a wax. As for not removing it all, its wont hurt the paint at all, just rewash the vehicle to remove all the residue, or use a quick detailer and a plush microfiber to remove the small spots.

Since you did a polish, there shouldn't be any minor swirling left, if there is, get SwirlX- much newer and better working by hand. The follow up with a glaze CG EZ Creme used it and love it, and its not oily like some of the meguiars ones which can streak. This glaze really increases depth and gloss in any paint, but you need to seal and to do so use Menzerna Power Lock easy to use and very glossy, also lasts a long time easily 2-3 months. And you should be good.

That said, I recommended a sealant due to the fact that you want gloss, and a sealant like MPL does this better than a wax.

These products are well priced: $17 for the glaze and $30 for the sealant, and if your shopping at Detailed Image, pick up one of the waffle weave towels One should be enough to dry your whole car. As for buffing towels, go to target (much cheaper sometimes)- The Vroom brand ones are good.

Other people recommended "The Absorber" it was a phase, but it scratches... It also doesnt absorb a ton and at the end of the day, gets outperformed by a waffle weave. Also, if you have a leaf blower, they work very well in areas a towel cant get (crevices, and drying wheels).

Good Luck, happy detailing ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
what about for a polish? i dont have anything for that unless you are talking about the meguairs swirl remover.

so i can polish, glaze, and seal once every couple of months?
 

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Wow... after looking at the mother of detailing thread, I never knew there were so many steps in detailing paint.

I've always washed, clay barred, then waxed.

I mean really, is it truly necessary to:

1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Polish
4. Glaze
5. Seal
6. Wax
7. Apply Top Coat

??
 

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Wow... after looking at the mother of detailing thread, I never knew there were so many steps in detailing paint.

I've always washed, clay barred, then waxed.

I mean really, is it truly necessary to:

1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Polish
4. Glaze
5. Seal
6. Wax
7. Apply Top Coat

??
HECK NO! Truthfully, the biggest change in looks and gloss will be the polishing and glaze step. Applying a sealant like Menzerna Power Lock on top is necessary to protect the finish, and I almost never top a sealant with a wax- really isnt a change in looks, and I doubt a top coat will do anything further.

1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Polish
4. Glaze (Optional)
5. Sealant or Wax
 
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