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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am poking around and trying my best to read up on the things I need to know owning and wanting to modify an 8th gen Civic.

I would like to install the Kenwood deck I have been using for the last few years into my 07. Looking at Crutchfield it would appear they only have a wiring harness that completely removes the factory sub but also requires completely rewiring for each speaker. Looking at the install PDF from Crutchfield I am not 100% sure I would even been able to keep all factory sub or tweeters. It is listed in the wiring but I am instinctively doubtful.
https
//pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20111030154300/Manuals/120/120701728.PDF

(you will have to copy and paste that link since I don't have enough posts to put that in properly. I had to break it to post it)

I have seen and read several post on Whiterice's factory amp integration. While it seems like the way to go the more I read every single one of those post talks about static. In fact, I am left with the impression that everyone that has used that method has some level of issue with static in the speakers. Some minor and others seemed terrible.

What I am looking to find out is has anyone who has used the factory amp integration done so without getting static? If so, what did you do different. There are way to many posts and many of them are so long that if there is useful information it has long since been buried.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Not sure, why the original post was not showing but here is my question...

How many people that have used the factory amp integration suffer from static? Having read as many posts as I can on it I am left with the impression that every one who has done this has static. Some only a little, and many others lots.

For those that do not suffer any static having used the method, what did you do differently? So many of the threads on factory amp integration are now so long any useful info is long since buried.

This has a fair number of views but no response. If I am mistaken and you have no issue using this method I would like to hear that too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
***ETA

Having finally done this myself I am leaving my impression here for others.

Meh, is really how I feel about it. I am tempted to put the factory radio back in. The sound quality just does not match the factory setup with the Premium Audio. I had a bit of static in voices at first but making sure the connections were solid fixed that. I spent the afternoon playing with settings to try and dial in the stereo to make it as close or better than factory but I do not believe it is possible. The lack of the factory sub is very apparent.

For me it was about having better phone/ipod integration. I had a stereo in my last car that did this perfectly and just wanted to move it over. Had I done that day 1 then I might not have noticed a huge difference. I have not bothered with getting the steering controls working since I think I will go back to factory.

I simply don't think it is worth it unless you are planning on completely rewiring the whole system to work with which ever head unit you are installing. That way you have steering wheel controls, sub working and any and all extras from you need head unit. Kinda negates the whole factory integration idea.

The factory amp integration is a huge let down. I think I will eventually reinstall the factory unit and add a bluetooth adapter like the Crux BTS-HN2 or USA Spec BT45-HON3. That gives me ipod music and control without adtional add-ons or wiring.



*** original post below

Since something went wrong with the first post, if a Mod could add a poll to this for me I would be grateful.

Looking to know from those who have done this static or no static
From those who haven't if they are what their impression is. Do they expect that there would be static or not.
 

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I used the scosche hb13a integration harness and and it works well. You will have to re pin it as scosche didnt do it correctly. After that it works perfectly. No noise that i can tell. You will also keep your factory tweeters and sub working.
 

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I'm currently using the Metra 70-1722 harness where I've connected the LF/LR and RF/RR together, and grounded all 4 channels together, into an aux cable which I plug directly into my phone. As long as you give 12V to pin16 of the other harness to power the amp, it works great without any static. The only times you get static is when the aux cable is unplugged, which I believe is just because the LF/LR/RF/RR signals are floating. You can probably fix that with a pull-down resistor (not sure, not tested).
 

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I'm currently using the Metra 70-1722 harness where I've connected the LF/LR and RF/RR together, and grounded all 4 channels together, into an aux cable which I plug directly into my phone. As long as you give 12V to pin16 of the other harness to power the amp, it works great without any static. The only times you get static is when the aux cable is unplugged, which I believe is just because the LF/LR/RF/RR signals are floating. You can probably fix that with a pull-down resistor (not sure, not tested).
What did you connect the aux cables ground shield to?
 

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Hiss w. factory amp, had to bypass

I originally had the "Premium" system on my 07 EX coupe. I made the change to an aftermarket HU this week because my factory CD player stopped working, then my AUX input, then the display started fading out. (All with only 41k miles on the car!)

With the factory amp included, there was now a noticeable bottom level hiss that was there whether using HD radio, CD, USB, etc. To deal with this, they had to get a harness that bypassed the factory amp. This got rid of the hiss but added $100 to the install price.

(Also, they said to retain the factory sub they would have to install a new amp and wiring. Not sure why this is the case, but I've heard that elsewhere, too. I chose not to have this done because of the expense.)

Disappointed to find that even with the decent HU, the new system doesn't sound nearly as good as the old Honda Premium did. I will probably end up putting in an amp and replacing the sub (at the same time as the other speakers.)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am surprised to see that this post is still so close to the top...

Sooo updates... I put the stock head unit back in early 2017 and have not looked back.

1. I am strongly of the opinion that anyone claiming no static got lucky or did something they are not sharing

2. Factory sub does not work or is barely working when you do this. My guess is that without direct control of the sub from the factory head unit the amp defaults the output to off or so low it may as well be off. Everything I could find one the issue felt like bandaid and not an actual solution

3. Volume gain issues - holy crap that was near unbearable. Yes, it was through the proper amp pre-outs. Either too quiet or way too freaking loud not matter what

Now, I would love to be proven wrong but this was my experience. Everything I have found leads me to believe that the best route is unfortunately the most expensive one. Completely replacing everything... the sub, amp and head-unit if you are looking at changing anything.

I would not recommend the factory amp integration at all
 
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