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Discussion Starter #1
First I'd like to say how great this forum is! I've only been on here for a few days, and I can't believe all the good stuff that's here.

So here's my issue. I've got an '07 Civic EX Sedan (Canadian), and I want to put a sub in the back. Has anyone done this? I've been reading about lots of you that have put new subs in your SIs, which already have a sub. Seeing as I don't have a factory sub (and I want to use the factory head unit), will I have any issues? From what I've read, I'll need to tap an LOC off the rear speakers and run the RCAs to my amp. Is this giving the amp a true bass signal, or does the amp just take the whole signal in and use the LP filter to run the lows to the subs? Are the rear 5.25"s still trying to play those low frequency sounds? Also, what is the best method for splicing in the LOC?

As for wiring, I know I'll need to run a power cable and a remote cable (if req'd). Where is the best (aka easiest) spot to tap into the remote wire? Also, if I don't have that magic whole above my gas pedal (haven't checked yet), where is the best (aka easiest) place to run my power cable through the firewall? Main wiring harness?

Now for sound quality. I'm not a teenager in need of an ego boost, so I don't care for the massive thundering bass. I just like a good quality low-end bass that sounds true and lets my other speakers sounds clear. I just sold my 92 Accord, and I kept my 2-10" Punch XLCs and the 900W XLC amp (my brother-in-law gave the whole setup to me). Will these sound ok with the factory head unit, or are they overkill? I was looking at the Alpine PLT-5, has anyone tried these? I know they're for trucks, but they sound nice (heard one in a truck today), and they have a remote for controlling the sub level which is nice seeing as I won't have the luxury of my old Alpine deck.

Any pointers/suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance!

EC
 

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El Comat said:
Now for sound quality. I'm not a teenager in need of an ego boost, so I don't care for the massive thundering bass. I just like a good quality low-end bass that sounds true and lets my other speakers sounds clear. I just sold my 92 Accord, and I kept my 2-10" Punch XLCs and the 900W XLC amp (my brother-in-law gave the whole setup to me). Will these sound ok with the factory head unit, or are they overkill? I was looking at the Alpine PLT-5, has anyone tried these? I know they're for trucks, but they sound nice (heard one in a truck today), and they have a remote for controlling the sub level which is nice seeing as I won't have the luxury of my old Alpine deck.



EC
Hopefully someone here with an EX can help you out. I don't know if there's an existing area for you to install a subwoofer in on your rear deck. For this portion, I'm going to assume there is.

Well, you're asking about two separate setups here; a stock(able) solution, or a box in the trunk solution. Either way is fine, but you need to decide.

If you're looking to stay stock and use the car's factory external amplifier (which I assume you have, because I think all EX's do...but I don't know for sure), then that's fine. You'll just need to do your homework on subs made for an infinite baffle (aka IB) install.

Matter of fact, I think I'm going to back out of this thread until someone here says whether or not there is an external amp, AND is there a stock location for a subwoofer in the EX?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm looking to go with a separate subwoofer setup (my own amp/subs in a box).

EC
 

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Okay...in that case:

Budget?
Size that you're willing to consume with amps/sub?
What music do you listen to the most?

I can't help you with the LOC stuff. There's plenty of guys here who have gone that route. It's a fairly easy setup, IIRC, but I'm uncertain about the subwoofer controls from the h/u.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not looking to spend a lot. I listen to pretty much everything, but mostly country.

My main concern with my current subs (2-10" Punch XLC, with 900W XLC amp) is the "overpowering" issue. Am I pushing too much bass? I've heard the stock head unit is underpowered. I'm also concerned about the quality issue, seeing as the audio signal that's feeding the amp will be coming from the rear speakers (not a true subwoofer-out line).

Basically just looking for someone to point me in the right direction as far as installation goes (power/remote wiring, LOC, other issues).

Thanks again!
EC
 

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El Comat said:
Not looking to spend a lot. I listen to pretty much everything, but mostly country.

My main concern with my current subs (2-10" Punch XLC, with 900W XLC amp) is the "overpowering" issue. Am I pushing too much bass? I've heard the stock head unit is underpowered. I'm also concerned about the quality issue, seeing as the audio signal that's feeding the amp will be coming from the rear speakers (not a true subwoofer-out line).

Basically just looking for someone to point me in the right direction as far as installation goes (power/remote wiring, LOC, other issues).

Thanks again!
EC
You can control the amount of bass by simply lowering your gains on the amp. That's an easy fix.

As for you concern with the rear speakers wired to control the sub, that's a valid concern. Most OEM h/u's have built in equalization, and even roll offs that severely effect the music you hear. Sometimes it's not bad, sometimes it's real bad. It's just hard to tell unless you can get a comparison or even better, some actual data from some sort of dac system. Buuuuut, the latter is unlikely. That's hard to determine. You can listen to advice here, but the only thing you should trust is your own ears. I can't imagine the factory h/u has good THD ratings...and I'm sure that the equalization isn't too pretty either. You can, however, control the lpf of your subwoofer through your amp.

As for the wiring, you might be able to go through the firewall; a small "plug" above the acceleration pedal can be removed to allow this. You can tap into nearly any switched +12v power source. Some in this forum have tapped into the fuse box for this. It should be a simple fix.

My final opinion? Find an aftermarket h/u. You've already got the amp & subs, correct? A wiring kit shouldn't cost you more than $30 shipped from knukonceptz. Get 4 gauge now, so you don't have to replace it if you decide to upgrade or add an amp for front speakers later. Take some of your budgeted money and look in classified sections of caraudio.com/forums. Look around. You'll find some good deals.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Bikinpunk. After contemplating my long term sounds "goals", I think you're right, I'll go with a new h/u as the first purchase. Might as well start from the bottom up and have a high-quality system, rather than a couple high-quality components. Any suggestions for a h/u? I've had 2 different Alpine decks in the past 5 years, and I loved them, so I'm leaning that way. I definitely need a 1/8" aux input for the Sirius radio/iPod, and I would like to maintain my steering wheel audio controls. Yes I want my cake and I'd like to eat it, too! :laughing:
 

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El Comat said:
Thanks Bikinpunk. After contemplating my long term sounds "goals", I think you're right, I'll go with a new h/u as the first purchase. Might as well start from the bottom up and have a high-quality system, rather than a couple high-quality components. Any suggestions for a h/u? I've had 2 different Alpine decks in the past 5 years, and I loved them, so I'm leaning that way. I definitely need a 1/8" aux input for the Sirius radio/iPod, and I would like to maintain my steering wheel audio controls. Yes I want my cake and I'd like to eat it, too! :laughing:
I definitely think you've made the right choice.

Give me your budget. I need some idea of what your max budget is for a headunit, only.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Probably no more than $300-$400. I'm also thinking of getting a dash kit off of eBay, the one with the Scoche (sp?) wiring harness. I'm in no rush, I've got to sell my subs and amp first and then see where I stand financially. And I still have to convince my wife that I'm not going to butcher the dash board :).

After the head unit, I'm thinking that my next purchase will probably be sub(s) and an amp. Is that logical, or would you recommend doing new 5.25s all around first? Keep in mind I do like nice bass.
 

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First off, I'd stay clear of the Scosche wiring kit. Got with the OEM dash kit. It's a perfect match. Check the DIY section for which/where to buy. This is a rather simple install. You just pull off the existing dash piece, and replace it with the new piece and install your h/u (well, guess you should install the h/u first, then put the dash kit in, but you know what i mean).

I'd say wait on buying anything until you've got the h/u. You said you wanted to do it 1 step at a time, and that's the best way to go sometimes. It'll give you time to think about what you really want. You may decide to upgrade your front speakers only and get an amp for them. Then you could go with a single 10" sub and a small(er) amp for that and be just happy with your setup.
 

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Used headunits:
Alpine 9835. GREAT headunit from back in the day. Doesn't have Alpine's new iPod integration, though. This is a pretty serious audiophile h/u. I'm sure you can talk the guy down from his $250 asking price.

Alpine 9851. Good little h/u.

New (crutchfield):
Alpine 9883. Good middle-of the road deck. Uses Alpine's new(ish) full speed iPod control. Remember with Crutchfield you get the wiring harness for free. Also, you get the dash kit for 50% off, so that makes it $35 instead of $70.

Pioneer Premiere 490. Great beginner's deck. Bought it for a friend's install and it's nice. Comes with the ipod cable.

Pioneer Premiere 690. For a little more, you can step up to this nicer headunit.
 

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hey there, i was in the same boat your in now. i have the exact same car and dilema. first off i got a polk momo 10 inch in a pre-fab box. it spit out about 300 watts. if you want bass that is decent enough to feel without trying to wake up the hood than a single 10 or 12 will do ya. second please go after market if you can, the bass rolloff thing is true. the EQ on the stereo and other options cant compete with an aftermarket deck. my fiance does not have the good ears like i do she thinks the stereo sounds fine. i wish i could get an alpine. the wieght will be noticeable so get a good high powered lightwieght amp, PDX or something. off a stop i can feel the car struggle just a bit. second if you want to replace the speakers start off cheap like 4 alpine type E coaxials. i put in focals and the stock stereo makes them sounds crappy, well not that crappy wayyyy better than stock by a mile. but like i said about the bass rolloff EQ thing it does no justice. i know it looks monumental but hey if you can buy used speakers for now but dont cheap out on the sub amp. right now im thinkin about puttin in a cleansweep or a rockford 360 to help the bad eq, but i heard those products have issues too. oh well best of luck to you.:coffee:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks again guys. Here's what I think my plan of attack will be:

1) New 5.25s all around (Alpine Type-S maybe? Would rear 6x9s be better instead of 5.25s back there, or would there be a noticeable difference? Also, are the stock speakers all 5.25s, or are the rears 6.5s?)

2) New head unit (something good at a good price, probably Alpine as I've had luck with them over the past 6 years. The wife actually wants a full, 2-DIN touch screen if you can believe it. She said she'd want that over a regular h/u. Any suggestions???)

3)1-10" sub/amp combo (maybe next year)

As always, let me know what you think!

EC
 

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You need to re-arrange your order:

2. Yes, and Alpine double dins are niiiiice. I've seen used w200's go for $600 shipped. Even saw a brand new w205 going for $700 in one of the forums.

1. No. Besides, the stock location is 6.5", not 5.25". I'd say no to rears completely. Buy a good 4 channel amp to power your front speakers....then go to #3.

3. Good idea. Use the remaining 2 channels on the 4-channel and bridge them to power a decent little 10" amp.

You're set. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I take it that a new h/u with factory speakers will sound better than new speakers on the factory h/u? And I'm slightly confused, what are the stock speaker sizes for the non-premium sound system? I assumed they were all 5.25s, but Crutchfield tells me that 6.5s will fit up front.

The reason I'd like to wait for the h/u, is that it would be easier to just throw some new speakers in, especially if I only replace the front ones. And if I do opt for the nice 2-DIN setup I'll have to save my pennies.

As for the sub/amp, they'll be the last things to go, and I may just get a mono amp to save $$. Will powering my front speakers from the amp make a different in quality, or just volume capability?

Thanks for putting up with all my questions folks. I'm not new to the game completely, but my knowledge stops at installing subs from a nice easy pre-out. Now that I've got the new ride, I wanna make it sound as good as it looks :).

EC
 

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i replaced the front first and thats pretty much all you need. nice loud front and the rear is ok. the type rs component are decent priced. oh man your lucky to have an understanding woman.
 

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Well, in that case, I agree with familycar^. Get some good front speakers for now. Buuut, realize that due to the lack of power from the headunit you won't get as much out of them as you would if you powered them off an amplifier or at least an aftermarket h/u amp. Remember, with factory radio you're dealing with some factory eq & a higher distortion rating than with aftermarket. Point being: your music won't sound as good as it could.

I'm not going to talk about any other components. Let's just start with your front speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sounds good....I just need to know what size/model to look at. Crutchfields says 6.5" will fit in my door, so I'm guessing that's the best option to get the most cone area, but are the stock speakers 5.25" (I'm thinking they're 6.5")? Will I have to do much work to get aftermarket 6.5s in there? I've got my eye on the Alpine Type-S (http://www.crutchfieldcanada.com/Alpine_SPS_17C2_6_1_2_6_3_4_2_way_Car_Speakers_p/500sps17c2.htm)
because they're reasonably priced and I know Alpine makes good stuff.

We'll get to the bottom of this yet!
Thanks again,
EC
 

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The speaker size you need to get is 6.5". Go with a good set of components. I highly recommend buying Rainbow SLC 265's as I've had good experience with them. They cost $220 for the set, but are well worth it. Actually, that's cheap compared to some components out there.

The type-s are alright, but that's it. Just alright. If you're building up a system don't cheap out on speakers. At least go with the Alpine type-r component set if you want to stay with Alpine. I had the type-s coax, and type-r coax speakers...compoenents are much better.

Here's a bunch of threads regarding the rainbows.
 
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