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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, I have an 07 SI that I'm putting a k24a2 in. I've done a ton of research up to this point but have a few things that I'm unsure of.

I see it's advised to run the z3 pan and pump so you can utilize the rear engine mount. How important is this? It sounds like a stupid question and everything in me leans toward swapping the pan, but I'm wondering if anyone has experience otherwise.

Can I use the k24a2 intake manifold and all that? I don't have a z3 engine currently, the car came as a shell. I'd like to reuse as much of the k24a2 stuff as possible. Do most of the sensors carry over, or do they all need switched? (I saw the crank and knock sensors need to be switched over but didn't see much about the others).

Should we use the k20z3 engine harness over the k24a2?

Will the k24a2 stock exhaust manifold bolt up to the exhaust? There is a catback but everything is in the usual position.

Is it required to use a K20 crank pulley or does the K24 one work?

Does the alternator and all the other add ons work from the K24, or do I need them from the K20?

Also, I'm going to be running this on FlashPro.. I took a peek in the program and didn't see any base calibrations for a k24.. What do you guys do in this case? I wanted to just run a stock k24a2 basemap on there for a bit and then tune once there were some mods done if at all possible. the k24a2 will be stock for a while.

I think that's all for now. Motor is coming in a few days, so I'll be doing the install over the next few weeks once all the parts come in.

I'll be mating this to a z3 trans too, which I had to buy :facepalm:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
For anyone else who tries this in the future, this is what I ended up doing:

You really must use the z3 pan so you have your rear engine mount.

the k24a2 intake manifold fits fine, the throttle body is angled differently though so a custom intake tube is a must. It's easy to do with some 90* and straight pieces and couplers.

k24 crank pulley is fine, however it took me a few tries to find a belt that fits. As of now a 65" 7 rib works, it's at the end of the tensioner square, so I expect it to loosen up once the engine runs for a little bit. If not I'll search out a 65.5"

The k20z3 rad hoses line up to the k24 perfectly.

I swapped over the k20z3 knock sensor, crank sensor, and oil pressure sensor. Everything else stayed on the k24a2

One problem I ran into was the fuel lines. I only had the k24 lines on the engine, and they didn't mate up to the k20 lines from the firewall properly. The k24 lines look a tiny bit bigger. I just got a ktuned 6an fuel line kit with EFI adapters and ran that to the k24 fuel rail.

The k20z3 exhaust manifold bolted up and clears without any issues to a vibrant 2.5" catback that was on the car

I swapped over the z3 AC compressor, alternator, and starter. I kept the k24a2 water pump and crank pulley.

There's a small gap where the trans meets the k24 block on the clutch housing side and the bolt there doesn't line up. All the other bolts do line up though and it seems fine.

The car isn't running yet, I'm waiting on a few more items to be delivered but everything is now installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Right on dude. You got any pics of your build?? I'm interested in doing the same once I pay mine off.
yeah I'll have to dig them up, they're on a bunch of different phones and tablets haha. If you end up doing the swap and get stuck anywhere, hit me up, I had to go through a lot of it using trial and error.. The shell I got didn't have much of the original K20 stuff so I had to buy a lot of it, and a lot of Honda bolts.. I probably spent like $500 in OEM hardware but it pays off to use good OEM stuff. I have a DC5 but never worked on one of these. They're definitely tighter than the DC5 and it's amazing how everything is packed into place. Cool little cars though, I'm liking how it drives and handles so far. I can't compare the k24 to the k20 that was in there, but compared to the k20 in my DC5, the swap was well worth it for low and mid range power
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't have a whole lot of pictures, but I will see if I can dig some up. Whenever you get started with it man, hit me up if you have any questions. I had a hell of a time finding much information out there so I just figured out half of it myself with trial and error. I feel good about the swap as a whole and feel everything was done right and will be reliable for a long time to come.
 

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For anyone else who tries this in the future, this is what I ended up doing:

You really must use the z3 pan so you have your rear engine mount.

the k24a2 intake manifold fits fine, the throttle body is angled differently though so a custom intake tube is a must. It's easy to do with some 90* and straight pieces and couplers.

k24 crank pulley is fine, however it took me a few tries to find a belt that fits. As of now a 65" 7 rib works, it's at the end of the tensioner square, so I expect it to loosen up once the engine runs for a little bit. If not I'll search out a 65.5"

The k20z3 rad hoses line up to the k24 perfectly.

I swapped over the k20z3 knock sensor, crank sensor, and oil pressure sensor. Everything else stayed on the k24a2

One problem I ran into was the fuel lines. I only had the k24 lines on the engine, and they didn't mate up to the k20 lines from the firewall properly. The k24 lines look a tiny bit bigger. I just got a ktuned 6an fuel line kit with EFI adapters and ran that to the k24 fuel rail.

The k20z3 exhaust manifold bolted up and clears without any issues to a vibrant 2.5" catback that was on the car

I swapped over the z3 AC compressor, alternator, and starter. I kept the k24a2 water pump and crank pulley.

There's a small gap where the trans meets the k24 block on the clutch housing side and the bolt there doesn't line up. All the other bolts do line up though and it seems fine.

The car isn't running yet, I'm waiting on a few more items to be delivered but everything is now installed.
. By chance can you send me the link of where you got fuel kit . I would really appreciate this
 
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