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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
alright i have an si. im running the stock battery/alt, 6g wiring, a jl 500/1 amp, and one 10" alpine typer subwoofer in a sealed box filled with pillow stuffing. stock headunit, split of the subwoofer in the rear for signal and using a LOC.

my sub just recently started cutting out when i turn up the volume above about 10 when the subwoofer is set at about 4 on the stock headunit. it can happen around that anywhere though. its wierd i usto be able to crank it and it would work fine, i dont know what happened. basically u listen to music, the sub setting at 4 at volume 5, slow turn it up and then the sub just stops, like the amp is going into protect mode, but none of the lights on the amp indicate that it is(im not sure if there is supposed to be an indication or not) but thats what ive observed. i briefly checked my connection on the back of the subwoofer box and amp which is mounted on my back seat and everything seemed to be tight my ground is grounded to bare metal in the trunk area, the battery connection in the engine bay is tight along with the stock battery ground. ive never had a probelm with this setup for almost 6 months and now im not sure what has happened, all the amp setting have stayed the same and everything.

edit: just looked up in the manual and there isnt going to be any light indication if the amp goes into protect mode. theres just power light, that stays steady green, red light if amp is to hot and yellow for an ohm light, which never came on or anything, just solid green saying the amp is powered when it is on.
 

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Check the cooling fan or vents or you may have something that touched that could have burned out those two lights yellow and red
 

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yeah, my thinking is either thermal protect, or bad ground. make sure your amp is ok to run at the ohm load you are presenting to it. im assuming its a 2 ohm load, but if you have it wired in series(it is a DVC, right?), the amp may not like an 8 ohm load. do you have a DMM, or have access to one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
im not sure what dmm and dvc mean and yea the amp can run the ohms its at. its like freak really it just started happening. all the levels are adjusted the input sensitvity on the amp is matched fine. its just now when the bass hits when the volume is out i get nothing out of my subs till i turn the volume back down
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
what do you mean somethings ground out? ill check all the wiring again but if its a ground why does it work at lower levels of volume then cut out at higher volumes
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
update: got home and fiddled with speaker wires redid the speaker wires cuz it was a bit narley previously, i checked all connections except the ground cuz my ground is a PITA to get to i was sitting in the driveway and cranked it up and it didnt cut out at all, so when i go for a drive later and it cuts in and out ill assume its the ground loose or something of that sort cause at a standstill after i checked everything and rewired the speaker wire im doing fine. we will see
 

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you can have frays. These frays will not cause problems at lower volumes because the voltage is lower. When you crank it, you're increasing the voltage that runs through those wires. The higher voltage could create potential for arcing and the strands of wire that are loose can ground (short) out on things such as your door, your passive crossover, etc... pretty much any metal near it.

This has happened to me. I know this has happened to at least one other person on this forum, too.

Check all speaker terminals too. Make sure no speaker wires, or speaker terminals are touching bare metal anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
update: well idk whats wrong i adjusted my input sensitvity down and upped the bass boost so i wasnt drawing so much power and my amp is still cutting on and off so i downed the bass boost some, then ******* i go for a drive and its still cutting on and off so i guess i need to check the ground this weekend...im pissed off i dont know what else it would be besides a ground issue or my amp is just going out on me now? i dont know im so frustrated. one of my foglights i noticed is also burned out and those are a PITA to install. wtf is wrong with my car pmsing these days
 

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dont use bass boost, chances are, if the gain is set properly, the bass boost will just clip the signal/

did you sand all the paint off your grounding point? is your ring terminal crimped well on the ground? check ALL connections, then check them again. whenever something is wrong with a system, and all of the equipment is fine, it seems like its always a ground problem. solidify your ground and see if it fixes it. also, do you have the glass tube fuse(AGU style i believe)? since its only at high volumes, i doubt its the fuse, but they are notorious for poor solders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
no agu style fuse, its the other king, and i will check all grounds again, but bikinipunk, are you saying if i have a loose/bad ground under my dash say because i have underdash courtesy lights installed that it could be the problem?
 

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bikinipunk, are you saying if i have a loose/bad ground under my dash say because i have underdash courtesy lights installed that it could be the problem?
Mainly I'm talking about the speaker wires you used from your sub to your amp, but really, anything touching your system's electrical could effect it.

Is there a way to tell if the amp literally shuts off, or is it going into protect (red light on the amp will light up)?
If you can answer this, we'll have a better idea of the issue.
Sorry for not asking that sooner.

Have a friend crank it up and watch the amp. If the lights turn off, then it could also be the remote turn on.
If the amp's LED switches over to red, there's other possibilities.

bikini, if that was directed at me, i know, but i was suggesting another possibility based on my experiences
nope, not aimed at you. just clarifying. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
^^bikinpunk, the amp doesnt shut off, it stays green, doesnt go red like "protect mode" would make it, but i read the jl manual and it says nothing about protect mode or any led color change, im also positive all my led's work on the amp just to clarify. i checked every interior ground i had for lights and amp i checked power and added circuits on my fuse box (interior) everything is solid. when i checked the amp its still solid as ever on bare metal behind one of my seats i redid it just to make sure it was contacting ALL bare metal and no paint whatsoever. i didnt get to test anything after i did this since its late, but 2mrw i will know and also if this doesnt work i will try 2 12" subwoofers i have in the garage to see if it does the same thing to see if its my amp or the subwoofer itself that im currently running.

anymore help would be great guys i appreciate it.
 

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Page 11 of the manual:

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/Slash_amps/500_1_MAN.pdf


"the amber indicator will light when it detects a short circuit"


When you guys crank up the volume, and the sub cuts out, does the amp do ANYTHING? Yellow LED light up, red light up, does the green light turn off, etc, etc?

If not, then your problem likely isn't the amp.

Did you also go down your line of the install and check the RCAs to make sure they're not shorted out anywhere?
 

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I take that back... I totally forgot about this...

A couple years ago my JL 1000/1 started doing this. It would intermittently shut off. It got on my nerves real bad. Luckily, it was still under warranty so I got a brand new one in place of it. They never told me what was wrong with it, though. :/

Call JL. I hope you have a warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
^^no warrently, old amp, maybe its just time :(

anyways no the yellow light doesnt come on, it stays GREEN ONLY GREEN lol no yellows no red, the green is solid, never shuts off or blinks, i did not use a different set of RCA cables to check or anything though?
 

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it can't hurt to use a spare set of RCAs. Just run them outside the car, or over the carpet, etc. Don't worry about properly installing them. Just use them to run from the headunit to the amp for testing. You'll be able to tell right away without going through much trouble at all.
 
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