8th Generation Honda Civic Forum banner

141 - 160 of 177 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Worrywart - I do change my own at home yes, and individual quarts are still the same price at about $9 a quart, but the 5 quart jugs are about $25.

Dgunay - I live in arizona, oil spec was still 5w-30 on my year and I'd rather have a 30w at op temp than a 20w with ambient temps around 110-120 every summer.

What's your source for the higher PAO Content?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Worrywart - I do change my own at home yes, and individual quarts are still the same price at about $9 a quart, but the 5 quart jugs are about $25.

Dgunay - I live in arizona, oil spec was still 5w-30 on my year and I'd rather have a 30w at op temp than a 20w with ambient temps around 110-120 every summer.

What's your source for the higher PAO Content?
Thanks.
What filter do you use for the 5k oci?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Also, if I go to 5k miles for oil changes, do I need a high mileage oil filter?
I suppose the difference of $3 doesn't really break the bank anyway.

I read on bitog that storing motor oil in the garage breaks down some of the properties of the oil. So where do I store my extra quart until I can use it?
My wife will love this. :facepalm:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
360 Posts
Also, if I go to 5k miles for oil changes, do I need a high mileage oil filter?
I suppose the difference of $3 doesn't really break the bank anyway.

I read on bitog that storing motor oil in the garage breaks down some of the properties of the oil. So where do I store my extra quart until I can use it?
My wife will love this. :facepalm:
5k miles is not a long interval. Based on the MM, people are going 7000+ miles on conventional oil with a regular filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
5k miles is not a long interval. Based on the MM, people are going 7000+ miles on conventional oil with a regular filter.
Seems like that is really pushing it.

Some people think the MM is a dummy minder and others swear by it.
It's funny how far apart some of us are on the topic of oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Worrywart - I do change my own at home yes, and individual quarts are still the same price at about $9 a quart, but the 5 quart jugs are about $25.

Dgunay - I live in arizona, oil spec was still 5w-30 on my year and I'd rather have a 30w at op temp than a 20w with ambient temps around 110-120 every summer.

What's your source for the higher PAO Content?
You can check Mobil's website, MSDS sheets show the ratio of hydrogenerated homopolymer, which is also called PAO.

The first one is 5w30 Extended performance

This material is defined as a mixture.

Hazardous Substance(s) or Complex Substance(s) required for disclosure
Name CAS# Concentration* GHS Hazard Codes
1-DECENE, HOMOPOLYMER HYDROGENATED 68037-01-4 20 - < 30% H304
POLYOLEFIN POLYAMINE SUCCINIMIDE 147880-09-9 1 - < 5% H413
This one is 0w20 Extended Performance

This material is defined as a mixture.

Hazardous Substance(s) or Complex Substance(s) required for disclosure
Name CAS# Concentration* GHS Hazard Codes
1-DECENE, HOMOPOLYMER HYDROGENATED 68037-01-4 60 - 70% H304
By using 50/50 blend of M1 0W40 and 0W20 Extended Performance, you will still get 0w30 weight with significantly higher ratio of PAO.

If you want to check individually, there is a link below.

http://www.msds.exxonmobil.com/IntApps/psims/psims.aspx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
I was using AMSOIL 5w30 XL for a long time, albeit, using 2 quarts every 5k. This wasn't too bad, considering how I drive.
Recently switched over to Rotella T6 5w40 after reading for 2 months on it at work, reading UOAs, etc, etc, etc. I have yet to consume a drop after 2 weeks of hard driving. Pretty sure I'm going to stick with this stuff from now on, especially at half the price of AMSOIL. I will be doing UOAs after the next interval on this.
I do 5k regardless of OLM or any other outside factor. A lot of people say it's a waste of money, but with the temp changes/ranges that MN goes through, I'd rather be anal about it and keep my **** running tip-******* top.

I always refer anyone with an argument to read the thread on Ferarrichat from that surgeon/genius dude with the epic oil write-up as to why I use 5w40 now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
639 Posts
I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic for awhile in my cars. I became sold on synthetics especially mobile one when I had to tear down a 85,000 mile Corvette engine while we were working on it my father in law called all of his friends to come look at the engine we were amazed. it was spotless!! The previous owner said all he ever used was Mobil 1 I'm kind of doing a research project right now lol when we bought our 2002 Nissan Sentra it came with a free oil changes with conventional oil as long as you own the car now 110,000 miles later it still seems ok but I always make sure it gets changed every 3500-4500 miles. The only negative thing I notice is now when we get an oil change the oil seems to get dirty a lot more quickly and it does seem like it is starting to gummy up a little. I'm kind of curious to see how this car goes. Lol. I hope I don't regret it. I did save probably $750 in oil changes. :)

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I recently bought a used 2009 Honda civic si and I have noticed that the oil turns black after only 3000km since last oil change. I was wondering what could cause this and what can I do to rectify this problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Never judge oil by color. When doing oil change there will always big amount of old oil that can not be drained and it will always mix with new oil quickly and discolor it too. And with 3km oil should be dark by than. Just remember to change it every 3 to 5 thousand miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Sorry Worrywart, I was on vacation for the holidays.

Usually i'll use either OEM, Mobil 1, or K&N depending on price, time of year, general mood, etc.

Mobil 1 I usually use rarely to do a strong filtration of my oil system (tests have shown this filter in most applications to have the highest filtration). Otherwise I'll usually go with K&N for the good balance of filtration and flow rate.

The oil life system in my car was at about 25% last time I hit 5300 miles on my oil, seeing as how that is the OEM system calibration, the OEM filters must be more than capable of handling that OCI.

Kev - You'll probably need to experiment between different brands to see which one burns the least with your motor. Synthetic usually won't stop burning but it can help to an extent as the oil doesn't shear as quickly in the OCI and thus leak past your rings.

Atodaso - if you're oil is dark, then it is doing it's job (suspending particles rather than them clinging to your internal parts and sludging in the motor) Honda's are generally very easy on oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Seems like that is really pushing it.

Some people think the MM is a dummy minder and others swear by it.
It's funny how far apart some of us are on the topic of oil.
MM on our cars is more of a dummy minder, it estimates when your oil needs to be changed based on distance and running time which is all that is really needed for most applications. Other oil systems take into account RPM's and other factors. Think of it this way, have you ever heard of someone who follows the oil change light complain about an oil related problem? lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
and to sell the Rotella T6 even further...

Since I switched over 3k ago, I had put in an extra .5 quarts and the level is just now down to the top of the dipstick marks. So I went from a 1 - 1.5 qts every 2k miles, with hard driving, and now I've barely consumed .5 qts. I've also thrown on full bolt-ons to this bish and have been beating it to death.

Long live Rotella T6 as far as I'm concerned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Nope, Rotella is the HD line of diesel oils Shell makes. The t6 is a 5w40. I have had no issues all winter up here in MN; we even had 2 full weeks already of below 20F or below 0 in the AM. No hard/slow starts for me!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Rotella is no good for R18, please stop suggesting it. He has to use 0w20 or 5w20.

Even if you have an Si, I wouldn't use Rotella because it is a HDEO oil, it has higher zinc and phosporus level which you'll likely clog your catalytic converter earlier, assuming you still have cat on the exhaust system.
 
141 - 160 of 177 Posts
Top