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Does anyone here use Rotella t5? On bitog, there's some decent uoa's on it with the ep3 civic si using it and other random engines, but I don't know if they wind it out or not. I'm just wondering if you guys think its ok for a stock k20z3? It's a 10w-30 on the thicker side, cst 12 @ 100c.
 

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Does anyone here use Rotella t5? On bitog, there's some decent uoa's on it with the ep3 civic si using it and other random engines, but I don't know if they wind it out or not. I'm just wondering if you guys think its ok for a stock k20z3? It's a 10w-30 on the thicker side, cst 12 @ 100c.
I'm using the heavy duty dieslel oil T-6 synthetic 5W-40. My now has 299,500 miles and I was trying to see if it would blow less oil than using Mobil 1 synthetic. So far, no difference.
If I lay into the vtec I blow oil. Between not doing a valve adjustment in it's life or a leakdown test (as if I am going to rebuild this block) I have issues.

Not complaining, just saying. Not sure I see a difference for my particular issue. Still beat that bich like noone. Wooooo!!!
:vtec:
 

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Amazing mileage man. I've seen only good UOA's on the t6 also. Just wish they made a 30 weight.
Thanks on the mileage. I need to buy a replacement motor or Franken build and have it ready when this one pops. It would be fun to work on a motor on a stand. May be work a trans over to to change gear ratios. Car still looks good.

I as well have read only good things on the t6 oil. Mainly the turbo (WRX forums, etc.). When I as at Advance auto, I noticed that they sell [5] gallon buckets of non-synthetic.
The counter guy looked some up and although they have listings for a variety of weights in synthetic, not all were available - to them. That leads me to believe that if you could get into an industrial supply shop that more choices would be available.
 

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I use Pennzoil Synthetic Ultra 5-30 in my car, with a Pennzoil premium filter ever 3k miles. I know that I can go longer on my oil changes, but I choose not to. I also change my manual transmission fluid every 30k miles instead of the recommended 60k with the newly improved Honda Manual Tranny Fluid. I know that some people choose AmsOil over the Honda fluid for transmission, but from what I have read Honda made some significant changes in their fluid since 2011. Works for me and I never have a problem. Just my inputs though.
 

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I use Pennzoil Synthetic Ultra 5-30 in my car, with a Pennzoil premium filter ever 3k miles. I know that I can go longer on my oil changes, but I choose not to. I also change my manual transmission fluid every 30k miles instead of the recommended 60k with the newly improved Honda Manual Tranny Fluid. I know that some people choose AmsOil over the Honda fluid for transmission, but from what I have read Honda made some significant changes in their fluid since 2011. Works for me and I never have a problem. Just my inputs though.
#1 - if it works for you keep doing it. If you are not putting down many miles and not crossing the Arizona desert to dispose of bodies than the 3k miles seems a bit quick.
The main thing is to simply have oil. I grew up with Mopars and Chevy's that all bled so I have been in the habit of checking when I fill up because - well - what else do you do while filling up? Polish my windows with Rain-X and check the oil.

I only hesitate at Pennzoil. Back in the day of dinosour oil the sludge build-up could be pretty significant. Like black vasoline coated nasty.

Does Pennzoil still use beeswax or is that a wive's tale? I still avoid it while wearing onions on my belt and compalining about the scary looking teenagers and commies.
 

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I would change OEM MTF 20-30k miles also, it shears quickly. Just check UOAs at BITOG.

I used German Castrol this time, but it is overpriced and ill try pennzoil platinum 5w30 for winter, mobil 1 0w40 or motul 8100 5w30 for summer.

Why pennzoil 5w30 for winter? Because its the lightest 5w30 in the market, even lighter than some of 0w30s.
 

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#1 - if it works for you keep doing it. If you are not putting down many miles and not crossing the Arizona desert to dispose of bodies than the 3k miles seems a bit quick.
The main thing is to simply have oil. I grew up with Mopars and Chevy's that all bled so I have been in the habit of checking when I fill up because - well - what else do you do while filling up? Polish my windows with Rain-X and check the oil.

I only hesitate at Pennzoil. Back in the day of dinosour oil the sludge build-up could be pretty significant. Like black vasoline coated nasty.

Does Pennzoil still use beeswax or is that a wive's tale? I still avoid it while wearing onions on my belt and compalining about the scary looking teenagers and commies.
You're hilarious - beeswax? You should go to bobistheoilguy.com to get up to speed on modern day oils - thousands of members with lots of oil knowledge over there. Conventional Pennzoil and the Pennzoil synthetics are some of the most recommended.

Also, anyone interested in changing out oil at 3000 miles should just be using conventional oil or they are wasting good money and oil. Some folks are getting 10,000 miles from pennzoil synthetics with great uoa's.
 

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Pennzoil has changed a lot in the past 15 years. Yes, their oil use to be horrible, but as it stands now Pennzoil is the top rated synthetic, above Mobil 1 and other competitors. Yes I know I can go longer than 3,000 miles on my oil changes, but I have an unlimited supply so I might as well.
 

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Pennzoil has changed a lot in the past 15 years. Yes, their oil use to be horrible, but as it stands now Pennzoil is the top rated synthetic, above Mobil 1 and other competitors. Yes I know I can go longer than 3,000 miles on my oil changes, but I have an unlimited supply so I might as well.
Yeah, I think I'm gonna switch back to platinum after using Mobil 1 AFE for the last few changes. I change mine out at 15% on the maintenance minder which is at about 5000 miles for me (lots of stop and go). Your motor is gonna be very clean and last a very long time at your change interval, especially if you're using ultra.
 

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Pennzoil has changed a lot in the past 15 years. Yes, their oil use to be horrible, but as it stands now Pennzoil is the top rated synthetic, above Mobil 1 and other competitors. Yes I know I can go longer than 3,000 miles on my oil changes, but I have an unlimited supply so I might as well.
I have no idea about the past of US market, but i know that Pennzoil is owned by Shell, and Shell is one of the most popular oil brands in Europe.

Probably its the third most popular, 1)mobil, 2)castrol and 3)shell. So i wouldn't worry about Pennzoil.
 

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Wow, a little sarcasm and this thread is back off and running. I've been a Mobil 1 guy for 300k on my 8th but switched to Rotella per Testify's recommendation.

I'm 46 and tearing apart engines at 18 made some impressions on me. Sorry but it sticks with you when something fails you.

The synthetics are the bomb to eliminate sludge. I don't run anything high performance so I haven't dwelved into the Amsoil or others.

/Off to ask Bob the Oil Guy if I should use Marvel Mystery Oil
//Happy Thanksgiving guys!
 

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Rotella is a little bit more expensive than M1. Its around $21 for a gallon and you have to buy 2 jugs for an SI, but M1 is usually 5qt in US and its around $25-26 at wally world.

I decided not to buy motor oil in Canada, its 2x cheaper in US!!

Happy thanksgiving!!
 

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Wow, a little sarcasm and this thread is back off and running. I've been a Mobil 1 guy for 300k on my 8th but switched to Rotella per Testify's recommendation.

I'm 46 and tearing apart engines at 18 made some impressions on me. Sorry but it sticks with you when something fails you.

The synthetics are the bomb to eliminate sludge. I don't run anything high performance so I haven't dwelved into the Amsoil or others.

/Off to ask Bob the Oil Guy if I should use Marvel Mystery Oil
//Happy Thanksgiving guys!
Hey, I'm glad you woke up this discussion - I like hearing everyone's oil advice. I'm disappointed when there's no posts here for a long time.

You're right - any of the major brand synthetics will keep the engine clean and running for a very long time (including Mobil 1)

Hope your Thanksgivng is great too!
 

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If an LX's oil changed is changed below 5k miles, then any name brand *conventional* oil will be fine. Probably easily go 8k+ on convention without issue. The delta between the off the shelf synthetics and most modern conventionals is getting exceedingly small these days.
I've spent hours pouring over research and I must say......
This is exactly what I have found so far.:woowoo:

Intervals/ driving habits/ engine type. Those three factors may qualify you as needing synthetic. Special engine types, extreme driving conditions, and how often you are willing to change your oil are key.

It's not as easy as saying "synthetic or bust", though synthetic has it's proper role.

I was getting my tires rotated and being a worrywart, I spend my time in the waiting room (anywhere I go) asking questions of the other patrons. I met a lady today with a 98 Camry with 200k miles. I asked her about maintenance
history and she said it had never had major repair work, original engine, etc.
I asked and she said conventional all the way, never synthetic, per the advice she got from her mechanic long ago.

If you meet the criteria, go with synthetic.
If you, personally need the peace of mind, go with synthetic.
If you love to baby your ride and run out of places to spend your money, go with synthetic.

(Sweeping generality ahead.) Those on a tight budget drive their cars the longest (generally) and they often use conventional oil because of the price difference. (Not everyone knows how to take advantage of oil sales and has the ability to stock up.) Many (not all) people who have the money to use synthetic get bored and trade in their car long before they can really see how long the engine will last anyway. Chances are those cars end up in the hands of those on a tight budget. Kunamatada?
 

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I just use Mobil 1 Extended Performance for my cars and amsoil for my ATV/Waverunner, it's like $4 more (if that) for the Mobil 1 EP in a 5 quart container over cheap conventional/semi-syn at walmart.

I go to 5k or my OLM to 20%.
Satisfaction to my OCD of full synthetic
Cheaper than conventional at the dealer
and of course, confidence for :vtec:
 

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The only M1 Extended Performance i would use is the EP 0w-20. It supposedly has 70% pao inside. I'd prefer M1 0w40 - 0w20 EP 50/50 blend rather than using EP 5w-30.

The rest of the EPs have 0-20% pao in it.
 

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I just use Mobil 1 Extended Performance for my cars and amsoil for my ATV/Waverunner, it's like $4 more (if that) for the Mobil 1 EP in a 5 quart container over cheap conventional/semi-syn at walmart.

I go to 5k or my OLM to 20%.
Satisfaction to my OCD of full synthetic
Cheaper than conventional at the dealer
and of course, confidence for :vtec:
BH- Do you change your own at home?
 
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