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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In an attempt to reduce redundency i hope this thread will eliminate the tons of oil threads scattered throughout the site.

Tons of information here:
Bob Is The Oil Guy

Going w/ amsoil 0w30 over stock
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mechanical-problems-technical-chat/127906-oil-weight-question.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/garage/20019-ultimate-break-question-answer-thread-merged.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/garage/98433-5-months-break-oil.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/garage/80982-no-break-oil-confirmed.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mechanical-problems-technical-chat/119564-1st-oil-change-debate.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mechanical-problems-technical-chat/28269-oil-filter.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mechanical-problems-technical-chat/34065-oil-faq-synthetics-intervals-weights-brands.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/civic-si/119553-what-oil-do-you-use.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/garage/79998-synthetic.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/garage/11408-maintenance-minder-traditional-intervals.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/garage/5205-synthetic-regular-oil.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/civic-si/116849-oil-life-meter-sucks.html

Oil Filter Reviews:
NTPOG Oil Filter Review

Feel free to add to this thread! Make it grow!

From 2point! Thanks again for the info
This guy is a brain

This well researched and documented thread is about OIL 101, effects, changes, flows, what to use and when and why and more.. .

Motor Oil - All Chapters, Inclusive -Copy and Save This - FerrariChat.com

I use 0W-30 M1. 14500 K on car. first 2 oil changes were Dino M1 & 3rd was 1/2 cyn and 4th all M1 0W-30 syn. 4500 mile change interval on M1 syn 0W30 and I will be getting an oil analysis on it. I also use a M1 filter and a brand new K&N drop in air filter in OEM air box. Results wont be back for a month probably.

OW-30 is not too thin but that is dependant on the starting viscosity of the oil at XX temp and then it's final operating temp. Some vary. I think M1 0W-30 is fine and is better than their 5W-30 oil. Walmart also sell 5 quarts for about $25 and sometimes $22.

- When I do an oil change I blow in the fill cap and get out extra oil.
- I prefill/soak my oil filter even though it's messy before instal
- I overfill by 0.5 quart if I plan on road racing or AutoX = 5.5 quart
- I have no reservations on what weight of oil to use durring racing but have had luck with 1quart 5W-30 and the rest 0W-40 M1.
- I suggest a Mugen oil pan or Hytech baffeled oil pan for racing
- I suggest OEM, Wix, Purolator Purone or M1 oil filters.
- For racing I suggest the OEM or Wix S2000 filter but you have to remove a sheild on the K20Z3 motor to get it on. Reason = Less backpressure and more flow.
- I suggest upgrading the cooling system before upgrading to a oil cooler for racing purposes or boosted cars.
http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief11 - Internal Combustion Engine Lubrication.pdf

Tech Breif on the analysis of engines and the need for oil lubrication, film thickness, shearing effects, oil applied to different areas of engine, why this and that.

some take aways
1.) mfg specs a weight b/c of bearing tollerances and a give and take relationship to which where they feel film thickness can be sacrificed.
2.) Don't put thicker oil in your engine just b/c. only if you are exceeding the MFG normal opperating (oil)temps all the time but even then, it better be for an extended period of time.
3.) If you do hot starts with your car, try going from 5W to a 10W for increased protection.
4.) ZDDP is an important additive for engines with high pressure head designs. (not sure how high pressures are in K20s compared to LS1 350s but with high lob cams and stiffer valve springs, I bet it gets up there!)
5.) more knowledge on stuff you probably don't even need to know about oil and engines!
M1s reccomendation for use of E85 oil in a Honda Engine https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Oil_Best_for_Engines_Using_E85_Fuel.aspx


I assume the guy asking the question was probably running a turbo which would need more protection than a NA engine b/c of blowby.
 

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There are never any conclusions in an oil thread. This isn't because people argue....it's because THERE ARE NEVER ANY CONCLUSIONS applicable to all people in an oil thread.

Sushi - Might want to fix the link for AMSOIL 0w30.

All others:

Cliff notes: Use a quality synthetic and a good oil filter and change every 7500 miles or one year with complete confidence that the oil can go even longer.

Quality synthetics include, in no particular order:

1. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 (probably the best value synthetic)
2. AMSOIL 0w30 (probably the highest quality/best/more expensive synthetic for this car when used with LONG OIL CHANGE INTERVALS, i.e. 10-15k or longer)
3. Redline 5w30
4. Mobil One (anything from 0w20-10w40, depending on application)
5. Valvoline Synpower
6. Quaker State Q-Power
...the list goes on

Quality Oil Filters:

1. OEM
2. Purolator PureOne
3. Wix
4. Napa Gold
5. Mobil One
6. Others (I won't include Fram in the list of quality oil filters, including modern Fram)

When you change your oil, use a new crush washer. Get the oil bolt snug, don't overtighten.

When you tighten your oil filter, tighten with your hand and get it nice and snug.

Now go drive it and stop freaking out over oil.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey, i have a quick question. I am thinking about getting the Amsoil MTF which i found on this site AMSOIL - Synthetic Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid (MTF) and i was wondering, if i could use it for my civic si sedan 08. Because im not sure what the recommended thickness is for transmission fluid. And also please let me know if this is a good product. Thanks.
yea thats ok to use w/ our trannys. you need 2 quarts though
 

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I use full synthetic (Mobil 1), but I change the oil every 5k miles. The oil can go a lot farther than that, but the oil FILTER can only go about 6k miles! Once the oil filter is plugged up, the filter will be bypassed and you will have unfiltered oil circulating in your engine.

I suppose I could let the oil go a full 15k and just change the filter ever 5k (topping off when I change the filter), but I choose to do both oil and filter every 5k.

I plan to hold on to my '07 Si for as long as posisble (maybe all the way to 300k miles), and the cost fo an oil change is small compared to the cost of getting another car. I am cheap, but I never skimp on motor oil or tires. I'll skimp on everything else, but not those two things.
 

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f you are lucky it is just a head gasket do a compression test and check the plugs to see which cylinder is leaking , also you can usually see bubbles with the radiator cap off.
either way the head will have to come off. one more possibility is a cracked head or block but that usually only happens when the engine is way overheated. good luck and do it yourself and save four or five hundred bucks.
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car insurance quotes
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there is a ton of conflicting information and uncertainty in the linked threads.....


im going with the manual
 

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I have a question I got a oil change and used 0w20 Mobile 1 and some people are saying thats it to thin for the si should I be worried? Or can I just leave it in till my next oil change and get 0w30? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have a question I got a oil change and used 0w20 Mobile 1 and some people are saying thats it to thin for the si should I be worried? Or can I just leave it in till my next oil change and get 0w30? Thanks
Always stick to what the manual says 10w-30 or 5w-30 if you live in a hotter climate where it doesn't snow...

0w-30 is to thin, but whether or not its hurting your engine I couldn't tell you... just don't run that thin in the winter
 

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This guy is a brain

This well researched and documented thread is about OIL 101, effects, changes, flows, what to use and when and why and more.. .

Motor Oil - All Chapters, Inclusive -Copy and Save This - FerrariChat.com

I use 0W-30 M1. 14500 K on car. first 2 oil changes were Dino M1 & 3rd was 1/2 cyn and 4th all M1 0W-30 syn. 4500 mile change interval on M1 syn 0W30 and I will be getting an oil analysis on it. I also use a M1 filter and a brand new K&N drop in air filter in OEM air box. Results wont be back for a month probably.

OW-30 is not too thin but that is dependant on the starting viscosity of the oil at XX temp and then it's final operating temp. Some vary. I think M1 0W-30 is fine and is better than their 5W-30 oil. Walmart also sell 5 quarts for about $25 and sometimes $22.

- When I do an oil change I blow in the fill cap and get out extra oil.
- I prefill/soak my oil filter even though it's messy before instal
- I overfill by 0.5 quart if I plan on road racing or AutoX = 5.5 quart
- I have no reservations on what weight of oil to use durring racing but have had luck with 1quart 5W-30 and the rest 0W-40 M1.
- I suggest a Mugen oil pan or Hytech baffeled oil pan for racing
- I suggest OEM, Wix, Purolator Purone or M1 oil filters.
- For racing I suggest the OEM or Wix S2000 filter but you have to remove a sheild on the K20Z3 motor to get it on. Reason = Less backpressure and more flow.
- I suggest upgrading the cooling system before upgrading to a oil cooler for racing purposes or boosted cars.
 

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FYI I will be looking into using a mixture of the silky smooth M1 15W-50 and 0W-30 for race application next. The 15W-50 has additives more like racing oils with a thicker oil film. Probably a 2 quart of 15W-50 to 3 of 0-30.

Remember, lubrication takes flow, going to heavy with oil will reduce flow.. .
 

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http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief11 - Internal Combustion Engine Lubrication.pdf

Tech Breif on the analysis of engines and the need for oil lubrication, film thickness, shearing effects, oil applied to different areas of engine, why this and that.

some take aways
1.) mfg specs a weight b/c of bearing tollerances and a give and take relationship to which where they feel film thickness can be sacrificed.
2.) Don't put thicker oil in your engine just b/c. only if you are exceeding the MFG normal opperating (oil)temps all the time but even then, it better be for an extended period of time.
3.) If you do hot starts with your car, try going from 5W to a 10W for increased protection.
4.) ZDDP is an important additive for engines with high pressure head designs. (not sure how high pressures are in K20s compared to LS1 350s but with high lob cams and stiffer valve springs, I bet it gets up there!)
5.) more knowledge on stuff you probably don't even need to know about oil and engines!
 
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