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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I wanted to get some advice, since I lowered my car on pro-c coil overs I have a lot of understeer and would like to correct that problem.

My current set up is progress rear sway bar, pro-c coil overs with dampeners set to 7/12 in front and 11/12 in the rear. Alignment is -2.8 camber in front and -1.5 in the rear. Zero toe. 36 psi front and 38 psi rear. Off track temperatures.

I'm inclined to give it 1/32 toe out in the rear and decrease the rear camber to -1.

What do you think my idea for the toe settings?
 

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You'd probably want some toe-out in the front for better turn in, toe-out in the back would be good for rotation as well in tight corners.
 

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You'd probably want some toe-out in the front for better turn in, toe-out in the back would be good for rotation as well in tight corners.
I dunno how safe positive toe would be. It will cause "hunting" and the car will feel very twitchy. Not to mention that under compression (braking), our geometry should allow for gain in negative toe, but if that gain is not equal or greater than the positive toe in the system, you are going to have a very dangerously unstable car when you brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I went with

front camber -2.8, toe .2 degrees out.
Rear camber -1.4, toe .6 degrees out.

Progress roll bar

Pro-C coilovers 7/12 damper drying in front
Pro-C with higher spring rate in rear and dampers set at11/12.

Drop with half inch clearance in the front and about a half inch higher in the rear.

I'll let you know how it drives.
 

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Sounds like a bomb ass alignment. Let us know how the tire wear is for the toe settings, I'm thinking about running some toe out front and back, but weary cus of tire wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds like a bomb ass alignment. Let us know how the tire wear is for the toe settings, I'm thinking about running some toe out front and back, but weary cus of tire wear.
It drives great, I'll let you know about the rest.

Two things to remember about toe in the front.
One is when your accelerating your suspension is pulled forward and is toeing inward far more than was the case in the static situation when your car was aligned.

Secondly, with negative camber the tire is deformed in a way that will result in the wheel not rolling strait but inward ( in the direction of the camber)

Your tires will wear the least if in the real world the wheel rolls strait, so I think you can get away with some outward toe up front, especially if you have neg camber.

As for the rear tires, my rears don't wear any noticeable amount anyway so a little added wear In the rear is no big deal. Maybe more importantly, a loose rear end that rotates freely will work/wear the front tires a lot less.

A performance alignment for a front engine front wheel drive car is very different than for the conventional rear wheel drive car and a different set of rules apply.
 
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