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not quite sure what you mean... so i plug rca's in to my deck and solder the other ends to the harness somewhere?if so which wires?
It might have something to do with your HU amplifying the sound, as well as your stock amplifier. I talked to a car audio place today and they said that was likely the cause of the noise I have been getting (i have the same issue as you with volume sensitivity as well, going to bring that up when i go see them on Wed, as im not good enough to fix this myself lol). You might want to do a partial bypass so that your front and rear speakers are not being amplified twice.

Sidenote: I may be wrong about any or all of this, but this is what I have been told twice concerning the noise I'm getting with aftermarket HU and stock premium sound system.
 

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SCOTT! Thats exactly the thread I needed... been searching for days and couldn't find one quite like that. This may save me from having to pay several hundred dollars to have someone else bypass my amp + install my pax wheel controls.
 

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Will this eliminate the problems I am having with noise? Again, I'm assuming there will be no direct sub control with that setup.. other than EQ.
 

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Will this eliminate the problems I am having with noise? Again, I'm assuming there will be no direct sub control with that setup.. other than EQ.
if your solder joints are clean and your grounds are solid you wont have any noise issues
 

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so i ended up trying scotts suggestion tonight and it worked perfectly!..so happy there was a solution that interference was soo annoying.thank you again.:woowoo:
 

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I need to know what happens if I decide to put in an aftermarket sub and amp to the aftermarket HU and premium sound system speakers i have, and can't find exactly what I'm looking for. If I do this, I won't want the stock sub playing, so would I just disconnect the wires leading into the sub? Not sure what to do there.

Also, I think i will still need the whiterice integration, is this correct?

Last, will this leave my tweeters functionless, as I've read differing things about this.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
this is will let u use all ur speakers
 

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if you want to retain the premium front and rear speakers but add a sub with an amp, simply unplug the factory sub connection at the sub. this is what I did
 

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Discussion Starter #92
i kept teh sub too and put an aftermarket one
 

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Ok. I'll probably unplug mine just so I can have more control at the HU.

To verify: i STILL need to do the Integration or bypass to get the noise out of my speakers, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #94
not but to have the best sound i would recommend it as this used the high level output into the amp it can fry your stock amp
 

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I really don't understand why everyone wants to do this so badly. Maybe I am missing something...

The stock sound system is 350 watt, a new typical dvd receiver/deck/HU would come with an internal amp rated at 4x50 watt=200 watt.(ex. Kenwood DDX418)

If you intend on putting in an aftermarket sub and amp you will be gaining say 1000watt to the sub. lost power = 350-200 gained from new HU-100(from old sub that is replaced and now has 1000watt)=50 watt. total gain = 1000-50=950. All of this trouble shooting/buzzing/ACC II/uneven speaker levels/splicing/4 extra rca's is to not lose 50 watts throughout the whole speaker system?

If you care so much about the sound, spare yourself the trouble and buy an amp and forget about saving the factory one.

Does this not make sense???
 

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what does "strapping" the amp mean? and heres my desired setup and i dont know anything about ohms or anything that will mess up my car or amps.. can you tell me if this will work out good..

2009 honda civic si with navi and premium sound system

i already took out all the factory speaker and replaced them with alpine type s component speakers in the front and kicker ks series for the back.. (currently hooked up to factory amp.)

i recently purchased an alpine mrp-f300 amp.. i plan on cutting the speaker wires before the factory amp and tapping into the speaker wires from there onto the speaker level input wires on the amp.

i also have a pair of kicker comp12's hooked up to a rockford prime r500-1

now i plan on running a 4gauge wire to the trunk and putting one side of the fuse holder (100amp) and the other side putting 2 8gauge wires coming out to both of the amps. (not sure if im allowed to do that.. help??)

are all of the ohms correct for this setup.. and how will this sound?
 

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I just did this install today with a Jensen VM9424BT head unit I connected the remote wire to the 12v(battery+) cable. It works great however there is a popping noise when I start the car how can I eliminate this? I know virtually nothing about amplifiers and sound equipment so any help would be great.
 
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