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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi 8th civic, (this may be long)
i've been an avid reader of this forum before purchasing an 09 si fg2. this is the first thread i ever opened on a forum so here goes.
First of all....
After getting my Si for some reason i really wanted an intake. I went back and forth reading thread after thread. I'm sure the mods will appreciate how much searching i did. It seemed all my questions were answered in one topic or another.
thoughts...
I kept going back to the aem design because it seemed not to go as far back and close to the header as the injen, fujita, and the like. The K&N was my next choice but the oiled filter made me hesitant. The aem also seemed to have the fewest bends allowing for the least amount of pressure drop. also there were no size changes. just a smooth path across the intake. I have worked on a project involving transportation of substances with compressed air and took what I learned and applied to my intake shopping.

If your looking for the actual install review start reading here....

Install was annoying due to the small engine compartment as many know. But the instructions provided as well as recommendations discussed in the Fujita DIY helped tremendously.

I wanted to keep as much stock components on the car just in case I need any warranty work done. Below, there is photo showing that when installing the intake the OEM house running below the battery pushes the radiator house onto the intake, this had to be removed, which differs from the Fujita DIY. For some reason I found the easiest way to remove this was to remove the battery and work from the top. With some swears and grunts later i eventually got it out.
Also anyone attempted to install this should now that if the car is cool, only a few drops of coolant are lost from the car. I do not that the coolant needs to be drained as stated in the AEM instructions.

Startup, test drive, and day to day...

No C.E.L.'s (check engine lights) came on at startup up and i'm now into 3 days with the intake.

It was a cold night when the install was done and i let the car idle for 3 minutes as instructed by the AEM instructions provided. A quick ride around the block and it seemed to sound and react close to stock accept a slight whoosh sound here and there.

I rechecked everything under the hood and proceeded to the highway.
Unlike other reviews i was not overwhelmed with the sound at vtec, it wasn't what i expected.

Throughout the next couple of days i noticed there is a slight loss i power from 2800-3000 rpms. this seems to be the cars transition point where it operates from 2(ish) valves per cylinder to 4 valves/cylinder. after 4k rpms there seems to be an increase in power. This is more apparent when feeding the car gas in a turn. one wheel wants to spin in the turn more than with the stock intake, and i feel that is more accurate quantification of power than my butt dyno. It took me a day or two to appreciate the intake, the car seems more responsive and agile now. it wants to rev. and there's a little extra umf in the low end even save the 3k tranistion point mentioned earlier. The sound of the vtec transition has grown on me. This afternoon when leaving work the outside temp gauge in the car read 85 and settled to 76 in about 30 minutes. But there was no sign of the dreaded heat soak. After getting home i felt the intake and it was slightly warm to the touch. The intake tube was significantly cooler than the manifold, throttle body, etc. i feel that AEM did apply a heat resistant coating as advertise. A good friend of mine who has been working with K motors for about 8 years believes the shinier intakes reflect more heat, so I went for the chrome finish, which could be helping. This weekend i have a long trip planned and can update my findings.
I hope this write up helps others as many other threads helped me in my search. http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/images/smilies/wheee.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update:

Took the car down to Long island about a 3 hour trip. I was stuck in traffic for 45 minutes to a hour and no sign of bogging or any different reaction other than described in my previous review. BTW, sorry for all the spelling mistakes. There is still that loss of power or hesitation at 2800-3000 rpms, but it happens more infrequently now, usually just when the car is cold in the morning. I also for 344 miles to a tank approximately 34 mpg!! Before the intake i got about 31 mpg at absolute best. Even with all the traffic i was surprised at the fuel economy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I did question this as well, but was told that is what he (my friend who gave me the advice) found. It does make sense that the shinier object would have a lower emissivity value, thus reducing the amount of energy that can be transferred through radiation (waves). On this forum I've seen turbo builds in which insulation was applied between the firewall and turbo and it was shiny. Though this is a rather just an interpretation of what the insulation is doing, it was enough for me to choose a chrome finish over the blue and red that was offered.
The coupling does limit the amount of heat that is transferred to the intake tube. Which limits the amount of heat that can be absorbed through conduction (energy transfer through solids).
The only way heat could then be transferred is through convection which would depend upon under-hood temperatures as well as how the air is moving under the hood.
 

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Yeah i did the same review a while ago. The car goes from closed loop to open loop at 4k. The closed loop tune is hideous for this intake. You will eventually throw a "02 sensor, circuit too rich" because when you romp on it, this intake sucks more air than calibrated. Youll feel like a "lump" which is more or less a knock, dump fuel and drag its ass to 4k. Its Sloshes a bunch of fuel, hence the "loss" of power, you actually do lose power. Now when you hit 4k the sensors read out and you get around a 12 hp gain right around high cam engagement, and a peak of about 6 hp. Get yourself a cobb app and you shiznite your pants. they have a calibration for that intake that will make you smile. MPG will eventually go to sheet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow, thanks for all the information. I remeber reading on this forum that someone said there AFR are pretty stable with this intake, checked with Cobb AP. But the flash did make a difference. However, what you described is exactly what goes on. There is a "lump" when you mash it, at part throttle it's ok.

My plan was to get cobb untill all the new updates with flashpro. However I've seen a few threads where people claim honda can see that you messed with the ecu, so i wanted to wait untill my warranty expires. If I was going to bring the car in for any warranty work now, I have the intake layed out in the garage to do the swap. Now I'm contimplating going back to stock and returning or selling this intake until I can do some ecu tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yeah, I already said with the recent updates that I've been looking at hondata instead of cobb. So I missed what it is in this thread that's making you roll on the floor laughing?
 

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wow. polished means cooler.

OP= dumba$$


:rotfl:

someone please buy this member a clue. :pray:
 
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