Have you already tried clearing the ABS DTC's?
ABS light / E-Brake
Hey guys...
last week i left my lights on, killing my battery. I had a buddy give me a boost. The cables never touched or anything. I let my car run for a few minutes after talking to him, I got into my car and both my ABS and Ebrake light are on...anyone know what would cause this.
last week i left my lights on, killing my battery. I had a buddy give me a boost. The cables never touched or anything. I let my car run for a few minutes after talking to him, I got into my car and both my ABS and Ebrake light are on...anyone know what would cause this.
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I took it to an independent shop who were able to access the codes and he tried to clear them a number of times. He disconnected the battery and spent about 2 hours trying to get the codes to clear. They came back right away.
I hit the breaks hard to see if the ABS would kick in and I locked up the tires. It obviously doesn't work.
If I take it to a Honda dealer they will read the codes for $125 but won't try and clear them. I asked why and they said it would only temporary fix the problem. So basically they wanted $125 for them to tell me something was wrong and then would want to do the work before clearing the codes.
Kind of at a loss here on what to do. I don't want to keep throwing money at it. I can get a used module for $100. Any advice would be appreciated.
I hit the breaks hard to see if the ABS would kick in and I locked up the tires. It obviously doesn't work.
If I take it to a Honda dealer they will read the codes for $125 but won't try and clear them. I asked why and they said it would only temporary fix the problem. So basically they wanted $125 for them to tell me something was wrong and then would want to do the work before clearing the codes.
Kind of at a loss here on what to do. I don't want to keep throwing money at it. I can get a used module for $100. Any advice would be appreciated.
All right. Finally got my problem fixed. I got a used control module from a junk yard (~$200). I took it to a local guy to have it installed. $200 later the abs light and the brake light went away and all is good. I asked the guy how he got the air out of the conntrol module and he said that he just bled the system as he would with any brake job. I asked if he needed to cycle the controller to make sure there was no air in it and he said that it wasn't necessary. Right wrong or indifferent that is what happened. I could have changed it myself had I known that all the professionals would do is take out the old, put in the new, and bleed it like normal. Whatever it is fixed. I will be disconnecting the ABS control module next time my lights get left on and it needs to be jumped.
Hey 06CivicEX86- Glad to hear you got this fixed! You mentioned the unit was in 3 parts-
Since this fragile little unit was blown while we were jumping the car battery, shouldn't we just need to replace the electronic part or do the 3 pieces not come apart?I want to replace my ABS control module myself. The unit appears to be made up of three parts. The Electronic control, the pump, and the hydralic unit. The replacement part is all three units.
The unit is made up of three parts. You only need to replace the electronic box that houses all the solenoids. I don't think you can buy just the little black box that attaches to the hydralic unit and the pump. You can only by the components as one unit. I asked for the old unit, and since it can't be repaired I am going to take it apart and see what I find. Probably won't be able to tell anything but it will likely be interesting.
It would be very difficult to replace just the black control unit since it is nearly impossible to get to the 4 screws that hold it onto the hydraulic unit. You would have to take out the passenger headlight and probably use a mirror. If I had to do it again I would get the part from a junk yard for 200. Then install the part my self. A quick search on how to bleed brake systems will give you specifics on how to do it.
I'm sure there are some professionals out there that would disagree, but the car drives great and I can't tell any difference since the new part was installed and they just did a standard bleed on the brakes.
One thing for sure is that I am going to disconnect the ABS control module if I ever have to jump the car again.
It would be very difficult to replace just the black control unit since it is nearly impossible to get to the 4 screws that hold it onto the hydraulic unit. You would have to take out the passenger headlight and probably use a mirror. If I had to do it again I would get the part from a junk yard for 200. Then install the part my self. A quick search on how to bleed brake systems will give you specifics on how to do it.
I'm sure there are some professionals out there that would disagree, but the car drives great and I can't tell any difference since the new part was installed and they just did a standard bleed on the brakes.
One thing for sure is that I am going to disconnect the ABS control module if I ever have to jump the car again.
So now because I posted in this thread ages ago... I now have an ABS light on and e-brake light on! I have had the ABS light on for ages because I have my ABS disengaged with a symmetrical bearing in backwards and the magnetic strip does not line up with the sensor... but recently the ebrake light came on.
Damn! lol
Damn! lol
i know what you mean...The same thing just happened to me again...the warranty is expired. sucks a big one.
how did you friend solve the abs light ?Ok, this is sounding much better now! I will tell my friend to take it to Honda to have the codes cleared. Hopefully there is no charge for this!
Thanks "The Power of Dreams'!! I hope you are correct and this reset will clear the lights.
-T
i have the same issue.
Thanks
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