Wow, same issue that you're having (with the battery drain, think the blinker issue is unrelated). So you ever figure out what exactly that the fuse #23 feeds labeled "back up" does? Been driving me crazy.I've seen many posts on this topic. My drain is coming from fuse 23. A few weeks ago, the draw was 400 mA. Today it was 780 mA. Alternator checks okay. When the power door switches/door lock buttons are disconnected, the drain jumps up to over one amp. The drain has been going on for about a month. Last week, the right turn signal started blinking much faster than the left. Left signal and 4-way work normally. Bulbs are flashing and not burned out. Wiring has no visible flaws.
I keep reading about the MICU unit. How can I determine if that is indeed the issue?
Edit: Problem for me was the hood latch sensor. Unplugging it made the problem go away it seems - drain current drops down to .03 amps after a minute or two after setting the factory alarm. I know that the hood latch sensor has been an issue (sometimes it would work but most of the time you would have to slam the hood to make it work so the horn would beep when you locked the doors). But never imagined that the security system would put on a drain like that, especially when not activated. Edit: So it doesn't matter if the factory security system is activated or not, just as long as the car is locked and everything is closed up (see below).
Edit 2: So did a bit more testing and it seems that when you leave the doors unlocked it has the same high drain too (.38 amps). That could be a problem for people with a garage who leave their car unlocked. Very strange behavior IMO. But the real point and observation here is that in order to do a proper parasitic drain test you need to lock and shut all doors/trunk/hood. Obviously the hood is the main issue since you need it open to test things at the main fuse box & battery so the hood sensor needs to be unplugged for this test regardless of whether or not it functions correctly.