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2010 Si sedan 86k for sale
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, great site! I've already been reading through posts since Friday. I bought a '10 from a family friend and it drove fine for a couple hours and then I got to my garage to drop off the tools I used to change the front left wheel and put the spare on. Turned the car off, left the radio on, took the tools out and went to leave and it won't start. I changed the spark plugs and put new ngk laser iridium in there. I also changed one ignition coil in hopes of it firing. I also sprayed starting fluid in the intake airbox tube for three seconds and it didn't fire. I replaced the air filter and oil filter and oil 5w-30 synthetic and when I tried starting it, it pretended to try to fire for a second. I hear the fuel pump priming. Basic obd2 shows fuel pressure at 47 and rpm moves while cranking. Car sat for a year, I put a battery in it after that and that was a year ago at 4/19. I tries starting it one time when I came a few months ago and it sounded like hell when I started it so I turned it off within half a second of starting it. It sat for a while and I came back Friday and put two quarts of oil in it, the dip stick is loose but it won't come out all the way it feels like it's hitting something on the way up. So I added two quarts and it started fine with that old battery but I charged it overnight. Drove it around for three hours, about six or more starts and stops of the engine. No issues whatsoever untill I dropped off the tools and it cranks and won't start. Fuses under hood looked good, pulled each one and tested for power with a basic volt meter. I checked fuse 19 under the dash, it's good. Fuel pump primes. I can hear it. I'm at a loss, I didn't check relays but I was starting to read up ok that. Am I supposed to start removing the valve cover at this point?
 

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2010 Si sedan 86k for sale
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Discussion Starter #3
"No green key light in cluster, and hearing fuel pump indicates, NOT immobilizer. "
This person had the same problem and it was one of his coils, that's why I bought one new coil. No Start...Intake Explosion
 

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2010 Si sedan 86k for sale
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Discussion Starter #5
Tested one cyl closest to battery and it showed 190. When I pulled the spark plug out it was wet from all the previous days of cranking. So it Iooks like I'm getting fuel and no spark. How can I test the ignition relay?
 

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2010 Si sedan 86k for sale
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Discussion Starter #7
Check the timing chain. Make sure it hasn't slipped.
I checked that last night by checking compression, I think. If timing was off wouldn't it show low compression. I got 190psi. New plugs are wet. Anyone know where I can find a diagram for the ignition relay? If I'm wrong I'll pull the valve cover. I should order the gaskets today.
 

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2010 Si sedan 86k for sale
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Discussion Starter #8
Olm said -4368. Put in fresh full synthetic 5w-30 4.6qts and oil filter. Reset the olm, says oil life 100%.
 

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2010 Si sedan 86k for sale
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Discussion Starter #10
I swapped the pgm-f1 relay 1 and 2. I also swapped the ignition coil relay. Nothing changed.
Check the timing chain. Make sure it hasn't slipped.
You think the tensioner let it jump timing? I was afraid of that too from my research. Would I be getting fuel and 190 psi compression if the tensioner had let it jump timing?
 

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Just for the heck of it, maybe test the crank and cam position sensors. Those can interfere with ignition if they are not giving proper signals.
I do not know how to test them on our cars, maybe just with an ohm meter.

And if you have not already done so, go back to the basic recommended plugs. The fancy ones are a gimmick anyways and can actually cause no-starts. I had that problem on some Plymouth years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just for the heck of it, maybe test the crank and cam position sensors. Those can interfere with ignition if they are not giving proper signals.
I do not know how to test them on our cars, maybe just with an ohm meter.

And if you have not already done so, go back to the basic recommended plugs. The fancy ones are a gimmick anyways and can actually cause no-starts. I had that problem on some Plymouth years ago.
Unfortunately, to find the test ohm values if quite difficult for these cars. That and relay diagrams. I'd like to test both. The spark plugs I put in are factory oem spark plugs. From my research these cars came with denso iridium and then ngk iridium. That's what it had and that's what I put in. They cost about $15-20 a plug. I got then for about $9 each. I have videos of me cranking it, just didn't have time to upload them on here yet.
 

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2010 Si sedan 86k for sale
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Discussion Starter #17
Just for the heck of it, maybe test the crank and cam position sensors. Those can interfere with ignition if they are not giving proper signals.
I do not know how to test them on our cars, maybe just with an ohm meter.

And if you have not already done so, go back to the basic recommended plugs. The fancy ones are a gimmick anyways and can actually cause no-starts. I had that problem on some Plymouth years ago.
When I did the compression test on cyl 4 with my buddy watching, it showed 190psi after two cranks. If timing was off wouldn't compression be low? Any info on testing those sensors?
 
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