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Does anyone know why my toggle switch burns up a bit, then locks up from melted plastic or something like that.. power wire is hooked up straight to the battery to a fuse, then to a relay then to the toggle.

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Discussion Starter #43
How many leads does your toggle switch have? What wires are hooked up to it?

Without more info I cannot tell you what's wrong.
 

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the toggle switch was 3 wires, ground, power and the toggle or supply i think it was.. It literally melted the switch which the fog originally came with. (ebay replica fogs for '09 coupe nonSi).. I went to o'rileys last night and bought a 30 amp toggle switch and it works like a charm now... So I'm guessing the tip I took from a guy at work did the trick. and I thought to myself and figured the ebay company sold me a decent pair of fogs with a crappy toggle switch.. I know guys.. what a shocker! lol.. but I dislike the toggle I have, the one they sold me fit like an OEM toggle switch right next to my mirror controller.
 

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But I am confused about why my toggle switch, which originally came with the setup I bought, burnt up.. it would be nice to gain the knowledge from an electrical engineer of some sort.. I had the ground and power wire hooked up straight to the battery (about18 gauge) and then that went to the harness of a white, red and black wire. Then hooking up to the relay and on that path was a fuse, then to the toggle. Ill have to take some pictures on the weekend if you need visuals

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Discussion Starter #46
My DIY is for our 2009 and 2010 Si's who's fogs come stock. The fog on/off switch is next to the head light switch on the steering wheel. The toggle switch on this DIY is to turn the independent fog light feature on and off.

What came with yours, is just an on/off switch for the fogs.

Are you using this DIY to just install your aftermarket fogs? Or, are you using this DIY to use the fogs with or without the head lights being on.

The toggle was added to switch from factory setting (meaning fogs on only when head lights are on) to modded setting (meaning fogs can turn on with AND without the heads lights being on)
 

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I originally installed my fog lights with the help from a friend about 8-9 months ago. The setup is to have the fogs on/off independently. Like I previously said the fog light power wire is straight to the battery(roughly 12v) so I'm thinking maybe it's too much power going directly to the switch, even with the fuse/relay being in between the power and the toggle switch? So far I've been using a 30 amp manual switch with a red on-light indicator telling me whether they are on or off. It's a 3 prong toggle consisting of the usual wires for functionality (earth, supply, and load) So I guess my major concern is why did my cheapy replica switch ( which might not be so cheap because its the same toggle switch collegehillshonda sells with the OEM fogs.) burn up after a few months of using it? Also the relay melted in a few spots as well. So overall the wire was pulling too much juice or what?
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Pics?

I originally installed my fog lights with the help from a friend about 8-9 months ago. The setup is to have the fogs on/off independently. Like I previously said the fog light power wire is straight to the battery(roughly 12v) so I'm thinking maybe it's too much power going directly to the switch, even with the fuse/relay being in between the power and the toggle switch? So far I've been using a 30 amp manual switch with a red on-light indicator telling me whether they are on or off. It's a 3 prong toggle consisting of the usual wires for functionality (earth, supply, and load) So I guess my major concern is why did my cheapy replica switch ( which might not be so cheap because its the same toggle switch collegehillshonda sells with the OEM fogs.) burn up after a few months of using it? Also the relay melted in a few spots as well. So overall the wire was pulling too much juice or what?
 

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I'll post tomorrow.. distraction took over today.. need to invest in a floodlight or hood light so I can work at night.
 

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In the pic that labels wire A (from relay) and wire B (from dash) connect the two to avoid that switch I added in... Now your fogs will light with only your stalk switch on your steering wheel.

Thank you to everyone who try this and succeed. Need help, feel free to pm me. I'm glad to help.
so instead of cutting the orange wire, you could just splice into it and run it to the purple wire on the stalk?
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I did this (this way) because my car is a 2010 bought in Nov 2009. Warranty is a money saver when your car is new. So I didn't want any problems.

Yes doing it that way will work...

Your welcome Dash!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
By just comparing your image with my image. Looks to me that it would be the blue that runs in the same bundle as the whites. (I would try that wire.)
It's in the same location as my orange wire. Be sure to test it with a voltmeter before you cut. If I remember correctly, it should read volatge with the car on and the stalk switch on as well. 0 volts when off. If so, you would use that wire and continue with my DIY.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
From the switch, you'll have to meter wires to find the correct one. That's different, my switch is the steering wheel stalk.
 
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