I checked my mount and I have the same problem. I'll be doing the washer fix today most likely!

 

This might sound stupid but should I use any particular type of washer, eg metal or rubber, latex? Any pics would be awesome!

 

So if there is already a 1/4" gap I'm assuming that jamming washers in there won't do anything? I have the annoying vibration at idle that will smooth out if I raise the rpms just a bit.

Rob

 

This vibration issue is driving me crazy and will definitely going to try that washer trick!
Any updates from those who tried it would be much appreciated

 

Any idea of this works on the hybrid motors as well?

 

Thanks a lot for the info on how to fix this vibration issue. I did it today and it worked great! Saved a bunch of money and time. Thanks again!

 

Excellent solution. Have a civic with 83K on it. Has been vibrating. Tried this solution and worked perfectly. Thanks

 

This is the second time I did this. The first time I inserted 2 washers and it started to vibrate again 2 years later. Now I am adding another 2 washers.

Since the original pictures are no longer available, here is my version of the steps and pictures.

The first picture was taken after removing the 3 bolts and the dog bone.

after removing the bolt that connects the engine bracket to the engine mount, this is how I used a pry bar to lift up the engine and inserted some kind of spacer (a pliers in my case) to hold the engine while inserting the washers.

I used hot glue to stick the 4 washers together to make it easier to slide in place. Then put all the bolts back in place and it should be good to go.

Hope someone will find this useful.

 

Awesome post! 23 cents and it fixed two issues. Not only was my engine vibrating but there was clunking when really cold that I had attributed to worn out struts. Thankfully I waited to see how the washer trick worked and it ended up fixing both problems.
Thanks!

 

Mechanic could not figure out where the vibration was coming from . He suggested that the issue was probably the belt tensioner. Replacement cost $400. He wasn't positive so I didn't authorize the repairs.Instead I found this post and took the car to a mechanic buddy who did this fix in 15 min. Problem solved, vibration gone. Initially I thought it was a motor mount so I priced one out and it was $300 ( and that was not even OEM ). So glad to find this posr-who knows how much I could have spent.

 

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that the initial mechanic checked all the motor and transmission mounts and they all appeared to be fine. I guess he just wasn't aware of what a common problem this is.​

 

Bought my civic few years ago, vibration at idle checked motor mount learned to live with vibration. Read this post took about a half hour "oh my god" i cant even tell the motor is running thank you thank you thank you

 

Big thanks for the working one, I am giving that out a try this weekend. Will post my results too.

I have a 2008 Honda Civic EX with a vibration that started around 50,000 miles. It started as a minor vibration on cold mornings that went away so I didn't think much of it. Then it began to happen when I let off the gas (no braking, just coasting). At first I thought it was the engine, but during acceleration it was fine, no drop in mileage, no codes, etc. Then I suspected the transmission, but it shifts fine.

I let this go over the past 20K miles lol, but now it has gotten to be bone jarring. Everything rattles!

I did a little bit of searching since I can't take it anymore and I saw these pictures on the internet concerning the passenger side engine mount. My mount was sitting on the stop - I couldn't even slide a business card under it!

Correct spacing:

THE CHEAP FIX

However, my original engine mount looked ok (no tears or damage to the rubber parts), so it seemed to be a huge waste of money to replace the entire part in addition to the labor. The design flaw was either an error in the material used or the length of the "bumpstop" that did not allow for the compression of the mount over time.

Here is the location of the bushing:

What I decided to do was add a washer approximately 4mm in thickness between the engine bracket and the rubber mount.

Here is a picture with the dogbone removed (3 bolts):

Here is the bolt that connects the engine bracket to the engine mount - plenty of thread to add a washer:

Here is a picture with the bolt removed:

I did this at work, so I didn't have a floor jack. Instead I used a small crowbar to lift the engine bracket and slide in the washer. I slid in the washer, inserted the bolt through the washer and tightened it. I then re-installed the dogbone (3 bolts).

I double checked the spacing under the bump stop and there was plenty of clearance! Final check - start car...NO vibration!

Time for fix <30 minutes, cost $zero since washer was from the parts bin at work Probably cost 25 cents at Home Depot...

We will see how well this works in the long run, but I am pretty happy since I saved over $100 for a new mount and finished the job in less than a half hour. I imagine this could work for any 8th gen 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 Honda civic with the same issue.

 

You are Geniu Sir ....

I have a 2008 Honda Civic EX with a vibration that started around 50,000 miles. It started as a minor vibration on cold mornings that went away so I didn't think much of it. Then it began to happen when I let off the gas (no braking, just coasting). At first I thought it was the engine, but during acceleration it was fine, no drop in mileage, no codes, etc. Then I suspected the transmission, but it shifts fine.

I let this go over the past 20K miles lol, but now it has gotten to be bone jarring. Everything rattles!

I did a little bit of searching since I can't take it anymore and I saw these pictures on the internet concerning the passenger side engine mount. My mount was sitting on the stop - I couldn't even slide a business card under it!

Correct spacing:

THE CHEAP FIX

However, my original engine mount looked ok (no tears or damage to the rubber parts), so it seemed to be a huge waste of money to replace the entire part in addition to the labor. The design flaw was either an error in the material used or the length of the "bumpstop" that did not allow for the compression of the mount over time.

Here is the location of the bushing:

What I decided to do was add a washer approximately 4mm in thickness between the engine bracket and the rubber mount.

Here is a picture with the dogbone removed (3 bolts):

Here is the bolt that connects the engine bracket to the engine mount - plenty of thread to add a washer:

Here is a picture with the bolt removed:

I did this at work, so I didn't have a floor jack. Instead I used a small crowbar to lift the engine bracket and slide in the washer. I slid in the washer, inserted the bolt through the washer and tightened it. I then re-installed the dogbone (3 bolts).

I double checked the spacing under the bump stop and there was plenty of clearance! Final check - start car...NO vibration!

Time for fix <30 minutes, cost $zero since washer was from the parts bin at work Probably cost 25 cents at Home Depot...

We will see how well this works in the long run, but I am pretty happy since I saved over $100 for a new mount and finished the job in less than a half hour. I imagine this could work for any 8th gen 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 Honda civic with the same issue.

 

I did it in garage and pay only 20 dh,,,
thank you 😊