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Only my 2nd post here, I really want to do a cat back exhaust but im worried about the car running rough after a year or so. I have heard that because the car coming from the factory is set up for certain air flow and such that it will make the car run rough. Is it a good idea to get the car mapped and tuned after adding and exhaust and intake?
 

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There is no reason a cat back should effect your car so much that it would end up running rough. You won't be making a big difference, if any, power wise without other mods and a tune
 

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I just heard this guy on youtube "Scotty Kilmer" saying just adding a cold air intake would cause the car to run rough after a while. He said that upgrades for performance will make the car run rough because its not set up stock any longer, its getting more air than the stock factory settings are for. Vid here
 

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The cat back itself won’t make the car run rough, if anything the fact the exhaust gasses can escape quicker is a bonus 👍🏻 The problem comes when you add the intake as it can potentially confuse the MAF sensor and cause the car to run lean. A remap is good idea if your swapping the intake and can also give extra power/torque, getting the headers done makes a big difference too. Mine had a HKS racing suction intake kit and a custom stainless cat back when I bought it, I’ve swapped them back to standard as I use her as a daily driver and the noise they made used to wake up the neighbours when I was going to work lol 😂
 

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Only my 2nd post here, I really want to do a cat back exhaust but im worried about the car running rough after a year or so. I have heard that because the car coming from the factory is set up for certain air flow and such that it will make the car run rough. Is it a good idea to get the car mapped and tuned after adding and exhaust and intake?
You shouldn't need a tune for either of those. Headers, yes.
 

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I just heard this guy on youtube "Scotty Kilmer" saying just adding a cold air intake would cause the car to run rough after a while. He said that upgrades for performance will make the car run rough because its not set up stock any longer, its getting more air than the stock factory settings are for. Vid here
Most cars are smart enough to readjust themselves (the ECU will reprogram itself to adjust) for something like the exhaust and/or intake, you shouldn't need to get a $600 tune. It doesn't provide enough power to have any physical effects.
 

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Most cars are smart enough to readjust themselves (the ECU will reprogram itself to adjust) for something like the exhaust and/or intake, you shouldn't need to get a $600 tune. It doesn't provide enough power to have any physical effects.
This is true, if you’re just going for the sound/sportier engine note then a remap will have no real benefit for you other than helping the mixture stay as it should, ie not run lean or rich. If however you’re going for power a remap makes much more sense. A stock ecu can learn but only within the parameters set by the factory, remember car manufacturers have to comply with all kinds of emission/noise regulations these days. A custom remap will improve everyday driveability, mainly due to the extra torque it can unleash in the mid range, something the K series is really lacking but still comply with emissions tests etc... which swapping the headers and exhaust etc can throw out of whack. Tuning an NA engine will never give massive gains over stock unlike tuning a turbo/super charged engine without getting into big money territory. That’s why I removed my set up, it was too in your face without offering any real power gain and I didn’t want to shell out the money for the remap 👍🏻
 

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This is true, if you’re just going for the sound/sportier engine note then a remap will have no real benefit for you other than helping the mixture stay as it should, ie not run lean or rich. If however you’re going for power a remap makes much more sense. A stock ecu can learn but only within the parameters set by the factory, remember car manufacturers have to comply with all kinds of emission/noise regulations these days. A custom remap will improve everyday driveability, mainly due to the extra torque it can unleash in the mid range, something the K series is really lacking but still comply with emissions tests etc... which swapping the headers and exhaust etc can throw out of whack. Tuning an NA engine will never give massive gains over stock unlike tuning a turbo/super charged engine without getting into big money territory. That’s why I removed my set up, it was too in your face without offering any real power gain and I didn’t want to shell out the money for the remap 👍🏻
By the way, do you have the racing or carb flashpro? I'm gonna buy mine soon.
 

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By the way, do you have the racing or carb flashpro? I'm gonna buy mine soon.
Don’t get the carb if you plan on actually wanting performance tunes... that being said, you can do some performance tunes, but you are limited on what you can get. CARB stands for California Air Resources Board. It is basically a “tune” that will allow you to pass emissions, which if that’s want you’re going for that is a good option ($200 cheaper as well, but if you’re wanting more performance capabilities, you can always reflash your car back to factory specs and then just go into the tune which will already be preset on the flash pro and re-flash your ECU after emissions testing is done :). I have hearda few people purchase the CARB, regret it because they did not notice a whole lot of difference in gains. It has less base calibrations available.

This is what it says when you order it off ProCivic Studio:

This is the CARB Compliant / Exempt FlashPro. VERY LIMITED TUNING FEATURES, but is 50 state emissions legal. See product description for details. Works with Automatic and Manual transmissions.
 

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Don’t get the carb if you plan on actually wanting performance tunes... that being said, you can do some performance tunes, but you are limited on what you can get. CARB stands for California Air Resources Board. It is basically a “tune” that will allow you to pass emissions, which if that’s want you’re going for that is a good option ($200 cheaper as well, but if you’re wanting more performance capabilities, you can always reflash your car back to factory specs and then just go into the tune which will already be preset on the flash pro and re-flash your ECU after emissions testing is done :). I have hearda few people purchase the CARB, regret it because they did not notice a whole lot of difference in gains. It has less base calibrations available.

This is what it says when you order it off ProCivic Studio:

This is the CARB Compliant / Exempt FlashPro. VERY LIMITED TUNING FEATURES, but is 50 state emissions legal. See product description for details. Works with Automatic and Manual transmissions.
Would I even need to reset it it I'm not from california?
 

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Would I even need to reset it it I'm not from california?
Reset it? The Hondataflashpro is technically illegal in all states (I believe) and can only be allowed to be used for race use on the track. Now obviously people will still use it on the roads and whatnot. But when you take your car in for emissions testing, you will need to re-flash your ECU back to stock otherwise you won’t pass emissions. I bought the Race Hondata Flashpro for my car because I have more running options to choose from than the CARB. It all depends on what you except to get from it. If you want the CARB, it’s $200 cheaper, but doesn’t allow you to do a whole lot tuning wise. If you’re tying to get pops/bangs or flames to come out of your exhaust, that won’t work with the CARB once as far as I am aware, but don’t quote me in that. You will have to look into it more.
 

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Reset it? The Hondataflashpro is technically illegal in all states (I believe) and can only be allowed to be used for race use on the track. Now obviously people will still use it on the roads and whatnot. But when you take your car in for emissions testing, you will need to re-flash your ECU back to stock otherwise you won’t pass emissions. I bought the Race Hondata Flashpro for my car because I have more running options to choose from than the CARB. It all depends on what you except to get from it. If you want the CARB, it’s $200 cheaper, but doesn’t allow you to do a whole lot tuning wise. If you’re tying to get pops/bangs or flames to come out of your exhaust, that won’t work with the CARB once as far as I am aware, but don’t quote me in that. You will have to look into it more.
Alright, I'm gonna get the race one then. Thanks for the info.
 
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