8th Generation Honda Civic Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2007 EX has been acting up for some time. Some days I start the car, drive to my destination with cool air the entire time. Other days, I can start it up and have cool air for a few miles and then out of nowhere, the cool air begins to turn into humid heat and stays that way the rest of the trip. And then sometimes the cool air never comes out at all.

I don't have a reliable or good mechanic, so I would like to have some idea of what's going on before I take it in. Any ideas?

(If anyone has a good mechanic in South Florida/Ft. Lauderdale area, let me know!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,254 Posts
I had the same problem 4 years ago when my '08 was under warranty. I insisted that the dealership diagnose the A/C system, including system pressure and check for leaks. Sure enough, 2 receiver dryer O-rings and the charge valve were leaking. Had them replaced under warranty, and A/C has been working like a champ ever since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I have been having the same problem on my '06 sedan.
Diagnosed and replaced the compressor electromagnet, it had no continuity.
Worked great for 2 days, now shows the same problem.
All work looks good, just no power thru the windings.
Is there a comprehensive DIY for diagnosing the A/C on this thing?
I have searched and read, followed the directions on the replacement of the compressor windings.
The fans run when the A/C button is pushed, just no kick in of the movable clutch portion of the compressor. I did set it as the instructions state for air gap.
Stumped, hot and sweaty!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,239 Posts
Intermittent cooling is a usually sign of a worn compressor clutch.
My A/C compressor sounds like immanent death. It was doing the intermittent on/off for the last few years (296k commuter).

I don't see where you can buy just the clutch like most cars unless I am missing something. Typical car part places list A/C clutches & A/C delete but not for a 2006 SI - only compressors.

I am not going to put good money in to bad as my 2006 SI is just for fun blasting and winter snowmobiling. Any good bypass threads?

- Matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,239 Posts
I don't know if anyone has done this on this forum but from reading it looks like I could use a 2006 Civic DX without A/C belt = 50.5" 7 rib belt. Advance Auto Parts or Dayco Part # 5070505
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,243 Posts
I have been having the same problem on my '06 sedan.
Diagnosed and replaced the compressor electromagnet, it had no continuity.
Worked great for 2 days, now shows the same problem.
All work looks good, just no power thru the windings.
Is there a comprehensive DIY for diagnosing the A/C on this thing?
I have searched and read, followed the directions on the replacement of the compressor windings.
The fans run when the A/C button is pushed, just no kick in of the movable clutch portion of the compressor. I did set it as the instructions state for air gap.
Stumped, hot and sweaty!
If the fans are turning on then the car "thinks" it's turning the compressor on.

For everyone who is having problems with the compressor randomly turning on / off, you need to do this test when it's acting up:

With your a/c acting up...
Open your fuse box and pull the A/C relay. We will be working on the left 2 terminals in the relay socket. The relay is just an electronic switch that connects these terminals. You can start your test by tapping this gently with a screwdriver end... if it turns your ac on (car on for this test) then the relay is your problem. If not, turn off the car, pull the relay and proceed.



With your multimeter on the voltage setting and the negative probe grounded (battery terminal is fine) Check voltage at the left most terminal in the socket. You should have battery voltage here. If not, check the fuse.



Change your multimeter over to Ohms and stick a probe into the center terminal, (only the vertical ones, don't touch the horizontal ones on the right) and leave the other probe grounded. This checks resistance of the clutch coil... here you can see mine is reading 4 ohms... good. You want a reading around this number, nothing vastly higher, or nothing next to 0. An infinite reading (the same result you get with test leads not connected to anything) is a broken clutch coil, or an "open circuit"... A really low reading (0, or .3 or something) is a clutch shorted to ground that will keep popping fuses.


If your car passed the above 2 tests next you want to jumper the 2 terminals together. This should give you a thunk / click as the ac clutch coil engages the compressor clutch. You can use a paperclip for this, but here I put my multimeter on Amperage and completed the circuit with my multimeter so I could measure current draw to show the people who will test it. You can see my coil is pulling 3.4A of current (about 45 watts). This step is optional and just helps prove everything is correct... be careful because not all multimeters support amperage testing and some cheaper ones only do 2A or less.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
If the fans are turning on then the car "thinks" it's turning the compressor on.

For everyone who is having problems with the compressor randomly turning on / off, you need to do this test when it's acting up:



Thank you Volvo9, stepped thru the troubleshooting you provided, much similar to what I had done, nice to have a more detailed walk thru.

Pulled the car apart, checked everything on the way.
I made the 150 mile round trip to the dealer in buffalo, (great kudos to Ray Lak Honda for having a parts department open all day Saturday) and grabbed another field coil set.
In installing the new coil, I noticed that it fit tight, where the last one had me wondering why it flopped around. My thoughts where, well it is just held on by a snap ring! The new one (and yes I checked both on initial install, and on disassemble today, that the snap ring was in the groove) slid in tight, and after checking the snap ring, reassembled the clutch. It did not flop around like the last one. Fired it up, drove around the county, and it seems to work, with out the rattle that I had with the last field coil.
I would note that the old "new" coil had some scratches from the pulley where it had wobbled against it. Did not seem catastrophic in terms of damage, it had not worn the paint or plastic off to metal. Time will tell if it works out, I cannot imagine how it could go bad in 2 days. Even with abuse, I see large A/C compressors shake like no tomorrow at work, they seem to live thru it!

Oh, and I have to say it, working on this car, I felt like a proctologist doing a root canal the only way he knows how! (next time I should take the drive train out?)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
i was having the same problem with my 2007 civic si . when the car been sitting outside in the 100 degree texas heat the ac compressor would cut off when drive and i have to turn it off and wait for a few mins and turn on the ac and it would sometime works. i been reading many fourms and found that the Eruo civic has the same problem.. The problems looks to be the AC relay "made in usa" i swap it with a new one. honda part number 397794-sda-a05" works like a champ no more problems.. it been a month now.. This is a know problem by Honda and they charge 300 bucks to fix a 11 dallor relay that takes less than 60 sec to change out.. So if you are having this problem try and replace the 11 dallor relay before you change the compressor .. i found the part on ebay.. or you can go to the dealer and pick one up.. Make sure you get the updated part number not the old one or you will run into this problem again .. I also added PG46 AC oil into the system. it been a month now no problems .. oil can be pickup at autozone for about 8 bucks ..

Thanks and keep cool

Tommy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
This is such a helpful thread! thanks so much for the pics and instructions!

I've followed the steps and came across with the following.

I plugged in a recharge kit and the gauge that comes with the bottle is in the "red" zone, indicating "check with a mechanic."
Compressor clutch engages when called for, but no cold air blowing.

Relay seems good, including swapping with equivalent neighboring one.
Did the resistance test on the ground port and it swaps between 4-10 ohms when car is off. and then 0 when car is on and a/c is on.

Then plugged in the meter in series and only get .5 A with car and a/c on. it drops to .46A when car is off. I also did the paperclip test which dis/engages the compressor clutch as expected.

What does that indicate? Should I be looking for a some wiring problems at the compressor side?

thanks in advance!

If the fans are turning on then the car "thinks" it's turning the compressor on.

For everyone who is having problems with the compressor randomly turning on / off, you need to do this test when it's acting up:

With your a/c acting up...
Open your fuse box and pull the A/C relay. We will be working on the left 2 terminals in the relay socket. The relay is just an electronic switch that connects these terminals. You can start your test by tapping this gently with a screwdriver end... if it turns your ac on (car on for this test) then the relay is your problem. If not, turn off the car, pull the relay and proceed.



With your multimeter on the voltage setting and the negative probe grounded (battery terminal is fine) Check voltage at the left most terminal in the socket. You should have battery voltage here. If not, check the fuse.



Change your multimeter over to Ohms and stick a probe into the center terminal, (only the vertical ones, don't touch the horizontal ones on the right) and leave the other probe grounded. This checks resistance of the clutch coil... here you can see mine is reading 4 ohms... good. You want a reading around this number, nothing vastly higher, or nothing next to 0. An infinite reading (the same result you get with test leads not connected to anything) is a broken clutch coil, or an "open circuit"... A really low reading (0, or .3 or something) is a clutch shorted to ground that will keep popping fuses.


If your car passed the above 2 tests next you want to jumper the 2 terminals together. This should give you a thunk / click as the ac clutch coil engages the compressor clutch. You can use a paperclip for this, but here I put my multimeter on Amperage and completed the circuit with my multimeter so I could measure current draw to show the people who will test it. You can see my coil is pulling 3.4A of current (about 45 watts). This step is optional and just helps prove everything is correct... be careful because not all multimeters support amperage testing and some cheaper ones only do 2A or less.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
I plugged in a recharge kit and the gauge that comes with the bottle is in the "red" zone, indicating "check with a mechanic."
Compressor clutch engages when called for, but no cold air blowing.
I think all of your electronics are working great if the radiator fan is coming on and a/c clutch is also coming on.

The "RED" zone, is that pressure high or low? Low would indicate you are low on refrigerant or a bad compressor. If your pressure is too high(90+psi) then it's likely you have a stuck expansion valve. You can youtube videos on how to replace it.

Ideally on the low side, your a/c clutch should kick on when pressure reaches above 80psi, then kick off once it drops below 35-50psi. Then continue to repeat that cycle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I think all of your electronics are working great if the radiator fan is coming on and a/c clutch is also coming on.

The "RED" zone, is that pressure high or low? Low would indicate you are low on refrigerant or a bad compressor. If your pressure is too high(90+psi) then it's likely you have a stuck expansion valve. You can youtube videos on how to replace it.

Ideally on the low side, your a/c clutch should kick on when pressure reaches above 80psi, then kick off once it drops below 35-50psi. Then continue to repeat that cycle.
Thanks!
REd zone shows that it's higher than ideal range. So I guess I need to look for expansion valve? I ended up dropping it off at a shop to have them diagnose it to confirm this morning. So we shall see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
I took mine out, it's easiest to cut the plastic trim piece underneath the glove box. If they call you saying it's the expansion valve, just go ahead and give them permission to cut it. Hopefully, it'll save you in labor costs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I took mine out, it's easiest to cut the plastic trim piece underneath the glove box. If they call you saying it's the expansion valve, just go ahead and give them permission to cut it. Hopefully, it'll save you in labor costs.
Great. thanks. I didn't realize that the expansion valve was in the dash so deep! Just watched this video to see what it was like:

I did have a mobile mechanic come by and take a look at it yesterday. He evac'd the refrigerant and refilled it. He said that the system wasn't leaking. And with full refrigerant the air blew a little colder than normal, but very quickly became warm again, even when he revved the engine. Touching the low return tubes (between the firewall and the low pressure fill port) it was a little cooler, but not close to being ice-cold.

and I just reazlied that I hadn't answered the "red zone" fully. That is only on the low side. I'm relying on those consumer refill kits that only connects to the lowside. The mechanic did connect both high and low and he said that they were within expected range.

Looking at the symptoms of bad expansion valve vs bad compressor, I have a sinking feeling that it may be a compressor. But hopefully the shop will be able to definitively diagnose it. uggh.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top