[Tkell]

A while ago I noticed my clutch slipping while under moderate power. (2000 rpms then jumping to about 3-3500 drove it like this for about 5000 miles due to work) I’m driving it around town and suddenly it won’t fully engage. I don’t remember completely but might have felt a snap when it happened. Clutch pressure is light until the last 1/4 or so. Thats about where it engages and disengages. Need to rev the engine an absurd amount just to go from a stop. Still shifts fine. Besides a new flywheel and clutch pad do I need to go ahead and jump on a new master cylinder?

 

[White-out]

A while ago I noticed my clutch slipping while under moderate power. (2000 rpms then jumping to about 3-3500 drove it like this for about 5000 miles due to work) I’m driving it around town and suddenly it won’t fully engage. I don’t remember completely but might have felt a snap when it happened. Clutch pressure is light until the last 1/4 or so. Thats about where it engages and disengages. Need to rev the engine an absurd amount just to go from a stop. Still shifts fine. Besides a new flywheel and clutch pad do I need to go ahead and jump on a new master cylinder?

If you want to save a dollar, you could wait until you install them to see if its necessary, if it shifts fine like you say.
The hydraulic system is outside the bell housing, so its not a must, unless you have shifting problems besides the obvious.
Just my 2￠.

 

[bakumar]

A while ago I noticed my clutch slipping while under moderate power. (2000 rpms then jumping to about 3-3500 drove it like this for about 5000 miles due to work) I’m driving it around town and suddenly it won’t fully engage. I don’t remember completely but might have felt a snap when it happened. Clutch pressure is light until the last 1/4 or so. Thats about where it engages and disengages. Need to rev the engine an absurd amount just to go from a stop. Still shifts fine. Besides a new flywheel and clutch pad do I need to go ahead and jump on a new master cylinder?

You haven't mentioned the mileage on your car which would indicate if there is a premature clutch wear.

But besides that, the problem of clutch pedal engaging only in the last quarter of its travel and especially the snapping that you seem to've heard or felt could be a problem with the clutch master / slave cylinder and not necessarily the clutch itself.

So suggest that you take a good look at both of them for any leaks and issues before opening the clutch assembly. And if you've to change the clutch, take a good look at the flywheel for any deep scouring and burns and change only if necessary or you can just go with clutch plates alone.

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[Tkell]

Car has 126,000 miles. Had to drive it a few miles and im pretty confident either the clutch or flywheel is damaged. I was looking at the possibility of the the slave cylinder or master cylinder being the cause of it. I recall seeing Something about the one of the cylinders will stop working correctly if the clutch pads get worn down enough.

 

[2010SiSedanStickShift]

You're thinking of the master cylinder... Do a bunch of reading on here and it'll teach you all you need to know. You burnt up your clutch. You could have saved it and just did a clutch and now you're doing a flywheel too. But from the sounds of it, it won't be your problem as you're not the one working on it. $100 clutch kit would've saved you.

 

[EpistleNo.81]

When doing a clutch, just have a new flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disk ready to go.
If you do not need a new flywheel, you can return it. I would just replace it anyways unless it is in near perfect shape.

There isn't much point in digging into it THEN discovering you need something that you do not have.

You COULD have the old one machined but by the time you go through that hassle just to save a few bucks it would not be worth the hassle.

 

[bakumar]

Car has 126,000 miles. Had to drive it a few miles and im pretty confident either the clutch or flywheel is damaged. I was looking at the possibility of the the slave cylinder or master cylinder being the cause of it. I recall seeing Something about the one of the cylinders will stop working correctly if the clutch pads get worn down enough.

At this mileage, the clutch could have worn out for sure and started slipping. But in general, in auto adjusting clutches, the engagement point doesn't go too low as you mentioned even if they are worn out, unlike in the manual adjustment type as the auto adjustment maintains the bite point closer to the normal position. And more over, the clutch pedal becomes harder to press the more it wears out.

So its always safe to check both the master and slave cylinders before replacing with a new clutch. And make sure to replace the clutch release bearing too, even if it in good condition.

And after replacing the clutch, you may need to adjust either or both the CMC and CSC for getting a smooth shifting and also the original clutch engagement point. But do that only after checking how the new clutch feels after replacement.

When I'd to replace the clutch in my car a few years ago, which I did at a much lower mileage, I machined my flywheel and changed only the clutch and pressure plate along with a new release bearing. Its still doing good.

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