10W 30 put in my Si.. any downside?
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I actually run 10/30 in the spring and summer months and 0/30 in fall, winter ..our cars rev so high that they break oil down quickly anyway so your fine with the 10/30..:thumb:
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When I tried running 10w30 the car seemed more sluggish. I also had more valve train chatter when the engine wasn't fully warmed up. So I switched back right away. It's designed for 5w30. you would only want to use 10w30 if you were living in Abu Dhabi where it gets to like 122F outside.
Jeebus christo this thread is full of more worthlessness. How about not posting opinion as fact people? How ABOUT IT?
Ok, down to debunking the following:
"our cars rev so high that they break oil down quickly anyway so your fine with the 10/30"
No, our engines are actually pretty darn easy on oil. That's why you can run a non-synthetic for 6-8k miles per the maintenance minder and the engine will run like that for 250k miles. I run my synthetic for 15k and beyond backed by oil analysis and I can say that our engines are quite easy to oil.
"With the tighter clearances of modern engine assembly, I would switch back to a 5w30 on the next change. And stop going to that shop, they obviously do not respect your property enough to swap out the oil, and merely give you a BS response. "
How about stop listening to the guy who speaks crap? Let me ask you something. Would you run 5w30 at 20 degrees fahrenheit? Then 10w30 at 40 degrees is going to flow the same, and be damn near identical at operating temperature. There is no difference "with the tighter clearances of today's engines".
"5W 30 will gilve you better mileage."
No, it won't. Increased mileage from different oils comes from one of two things:
1. A different formulation of oil
2. A lower operating temperature grade, i.e. 5w40 may lower fuel mileage more than 5w30.
"When I tried running 10w30 the car seemed more sluggish. I also had more valve train chatter when the engine wasn't fully warmed up."
I'm not calling this BS. But I'd ask you this: What type of oil were you using? Did your engine feel sluggish when warmed up? How cold was it when you experienced valvetrain chatter?
10w30 should work almost identical to 5w30 down to about 30 degrees fahrenheit. Plenty of folks run 10w30 in 0 degree starting with no notable adverse effects after a lifetime of engine operation.
OP - Hope this helps. In NC, in late March, I wouldn't hesitate with 10w30.
Ok, down to debunking the following:
"our cars rev so high that they break oil down quickly anyway so your fine with the 10/30"
No, our engines are actually pretty darn easy on oil. That's why you can run a non-synthetic for 6-8k miles per the maintenance minder and the engine will run like that for 250k miles. I run my synthetic for 15k and beyond backed by oil analysis and I can say that our engines are quite easy to oil.
"With the tighter clearances of modern engine assembly, I would switch back to a 5w30 on the next change. And stop going to that shop, they obviously do not respect your property enough to swap out the oil, and merely give you a BS response. "
How about stop listening to the guy who speaks crap? Let me ask you something. Would you run 5w30 at 20 degrees fahrenheit? Then 10w30 at 40 degrees is going to flow the same, and be damn near identical at operating temperature. There is no difference "with the tighter clearances of today's engines".
"5W 30 will gilve you better mileage."
No, it won't. Increased mileage from different oils comes from one of two things:
1. A different formulation of oil
2. A lower operating temperature grade, i.e. 5w40 may lower fuel mileage more than 5w30.
"When I tried running 10w30 the car seemed more sluggish. I also had more valve train chatter when the engine wasn't fully warmed up."
I'm not calling this BS. But I'd ask you this: What type of oil were you using? Did your engine feel sluggish when warmed up? How cold was it when you experienced valvetrain chatter?
10w30 should work almost identical to 5w30 down to about 30 degrees fahrenheit. Plenty of folks run 10w30 in 0 degree starting with no notable adverse effects after a lifetime of engine operation.
OP - Hope this helps. In NC, in late March, I wouldn't hesitate with 10w30.
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well if your super oil is holding up in a car that revs like every honda on the planet with a worked motor to some degree, then guess what after 15000 miles without an oil change i wouldnt even have oil left in the car , and yes i can prove this since i run 5.5 qrts for each change and get at most about 4 back out and i empty a catch can about once every 6 weeks .. I am also running a full stage 3 setup cams pistons ect. Your rev hang will clip at 83..to 8400 rpms in a stock si..with my reflash not even working properly anymore i can hold a rev to 9800 rpms consistantly and push it to 10400..im also 14 to 1 compression..he asked if he'd be ok with 10/30, and yea if i can run in my engine , Ohhhhhh by far he can, so correct me if im wrong but was he given an answer .... Ummmmm yes he was ... does even a excellent synthetic break down in a high revving motor? Hell yes it does, so maybe if your driving slower than my grammy in her Elantra and keeping the rpms down to a minimum then id love to see your oil at 15000 mile change intervals, also if you take a good look at the design of any of Hondas DOC motors you would realize they are designed to drop the bottom cam out during vtech and eliminate the dumped oil out the exhaust via PCV valve connected directly to the manifold and the tube coming off your valve cover to the air intake also sends waste oil out the valve cover to be burned out the exhaust, so I guess you stay out of the vtech in the car or the oil in your car wouldnt make it 15k..so untill knowing all the facts to someones answer you may wanna brush up on a k series motor or any of the other honda DOC motors..I would also urge anyone to never take the advise of someone saying running a vehical of anykind with the same oil for 15000 miles as a teacher of any sort..most people driving Si's beat the piss out of them and that alone will kill oil along with temp of oil, ever heard of foaming , cause ill be more than happy to let you see how hot a car at 14 to 1 can bring oil temps to a whole new level for you..standard si oil temp is on average 230 to 240 , my car even with an oil cooler ranges aprox 315, so if your going to suggest that i run the same oil for 15000 miles , the **** you smoke must be better than the CHRONIC,Snoop would be jealous.. 15000 miles hahahaha, you my friend are toooooooo funny..:wheee:
those of you that wish to try the new 15000 mile oil changes enjoy the costly repairs and crappy running sludged up motors , ill stick to my own guidlines ...:thumb:
Wow Mike....how can someone with obviously so much invested in their engine have such poor grammar, reasonining, and comprehension?
Let me break down your manifesto of stupidity for you:
"guess what after 15000 miles without an oil change i wouldnt even have oil left in the car , and yes i can prove this since i run 5.5 qrts for each change and get at most about 4 back out and i empty a catch can about once every 6 weeks "
It's called top-off...you don't just run 15,000 miles without ever checking your oil. You top it off as you consume. I'm running a stock car; I would think it would be obvious that different rules apply to different situations. But apparently you think it's wise to compare my stock car choices with your heavily modified choices.
"he asked if he'd be ok with 10/30, and yea if i can run in my engine , Ohhhhhh by far he can, so correct me if im wrong but was he given an answer .... Ummmmm yes he was ... does even a excellent synthetic break down in a high revving motor? Hell yes it does"
I didn't dispute your assertion that he could run 10w30, I disputed your assertion that "our cars rev so high that they break oil down quickly anyway". It's an oblivious statement. Do you read my response? Our engines, without ridiculous levels of modification, are actually quite easy on modern oils. They don't dump fuel into the engine (like a VW 2.0t). They don't mechanically shear down oils quickly. They run clean.
So my point was that our high revving engines actually do quite well under the stock maintenance minder with even dino oil.
"Hell yes it does, so maybe if your driving slower than my grammy in her Elantra and keeping the rpms down to a minimum then id love to see your oil at 15000 mile change intervals"
Ok, here's my oil after 14,500 miles. By the way, I shift at 4000-5000 rpms and redline a few times each way to work. Not exactly granny driving. 06 Civic SI - 14.5k UOA on AMSOIL SSO 0w30 - Bob Is The Oil Guy
Whats that you see? Evidence to back-up my claims. Couldn't be!?!?
"also if you take a good look at the design of any of Hondas DOC motors you would realize they are designed to drop the bottom cam out during vtech and eliminate the dumped oil out the exhaust via PCV valve connected directly to the manifold and the tube coming off your valve cover to the air intake also sends waste oil out the valve cover to be burned out the exhaust, so I guess you stay out of the vtech in the car or the oil in your car wouldnt make it 15k"
I don't know whether to laugh or cry at this passage of idiocy. Again, it's called top-off good sir. You keep your car topped off with oil. Try it out.
"I would also urge anyone to never take the advise of someone saying running a vehical of anykind with the same oil for 15000 miles as a teacher of any sort"
Really? So I guess all the modern vehicles that do 15,000 mile oil change intervals using synthetic oils with their OBC's are completely off base....such as the current crop of MINIs, BMWs, and many others?
Or perhaps it's that you have no idea about oil life, despite your knowledge of other things?
"my car even with an oil cooler ranges aprox 315, so if your going to suggest that i run the same oil for 15000 miles "
No, I'd suggest you look into getting your oil temps down because no modern oil is going to fare well at those temperatures on a daily basis. Not even the top notch synthetics. It's why BMWs and Infinitis go into "limp home mode" at 300 degree oil temps....because the oils start to have sharp failures resulting in engine failure soon thereafter....and those cars are running high quality synthetics.
I'm really happy you have a car running 14:1 compression. Why again did you think I was "recommending" you run 15k on your oil? If your read again, you'll notice I was pointing out my personal experience with oil analysis on our engines debunked your theory that our engines are hard on oil.
I recommend people run 15k mile oil changes through careful research and application, if they want to try it out. But it's not just a "Yeah, throw the oil in your engine and start driving".
Let me know when you master reading comprehension and analysis. I look forward to us continuing our discussion then Mike
Joe
Let me break down your manifesto of stupidity for you:
"guess what after 15000 miles without an oil change i wouldnt even have oil left in the car , and yes i can prove this since i run 5.5 qrts for each change and get at most about 4 back out and i empty a catch can about once every 6 weeks "
It's called top-off...you don't just run 15,000 miles without ever checking your oil. You top it off as you consume. I'm running a stock car; I would think it would be obvious that different rules apply to different situations. But apparently you think it's wise to compare my stock car choices with your heavily modified choices.
"he asked if he'd be ok with 10/30, and yea if i can run in my engine , Ohhhhhh by far he can, so correct me if im wrong but was he given an answer .... Ummmmm yes he was ... does even a excellent synthetic break down in a high revving motor? Hell yes it does"
I didn't dispute your assertion that he could run 10w30, I disputed your assertion that "our cars rev so high that they break oil down quickly anyway". It's an oblivious statement. Do you read my response? Our engines, without ridiculous levels of modification, are actually quite easy on modern oils. They don't dump fuel into the engine (like a VW 2.0t). They don't mechanically shear down oils quickly. They run clean.
So my point was that our high revving engines actually do quite well under the stock maintenance minder with even dino oil.
"Hell yes it does, so maybe if your driving slower than my grammy in her Elantra and keeping the rpms down to a minimum then id love to see your oil at 15000 mile change intervals"
Ok, here's my oil after 14,500 miles. By the way, I shift at 4000-5000 rpms and redline a few times each way to work. Not exactly granny driving. 06 Civic SI - 14.5k UOA on AMSOIL SSO 0w30 - Bob Is The Oil Guy
Whats that you see? Evidence to back-up my claims. Couldn't be!?!?
"also if you take a good look at the design of any of Hondas DOC motors you would realize they are designed to drop the bottom cam out during vtech and eliminate the dumped oil out the exhaust via PCV valve connected directly to the manifold and the tube coming off your valve cover to the air intake also sends waste oil out the valve cover to be burned out the exhaust, so I guess you stay out of the vtech in the car or the oil in your car wouldnt make it 15k"
I don't know whether to laugh or cry at this passage of idiocy. Again, it's called top-off good sir. You keep your car topped off with oil. Try it out.
"I would also urge anyone to never take the advise of someone saying running a vehical of anykind with the same oil for 15000 miles as a teacher of any sort"
Really? So I guess all the modern vehicles that do 15,000 mile oil change intervals using synthetic oils with their OBC's are completely off base....such as the current crop of MINIs, BMWs, and many others?
Or perhaps it's that you have no idea about oil life, despite your knowledge of other things?
"my car even with an oil cooler ranges aprox 315, so if your going to suggest that i run the same oil for 15000 miles "
No, I'd suggest you look into getting your oil temps down because no modern oil is going to fare well at those temperatures on a daily basis. Not even the top notch synthetics. It's why BMWs and Infinitis go into "limp home mode" at 300 degree oil temps....because the oils start to have sharp failures resulting in engine failure soon thereafter....and those cars are running high quality synthetics.
I'm really happy you have a car running 14:1 compression. Why again did you think I was "recommending" you run 15k on your oil? If your read again, you'll notice I was pointing out my personal experience with oil analysis on our engines debunked your theory that our engines are hard on oil.
I recommend people run 15k mile oil changes through careful research and application, if they want to try it out. But it's not just a "Yeah, throw the oil in your engine and start driving".
Let me know when you master reading comprehension and analysis. I look forward to us continuing our discussion then Mike
Joe
He's running long oil changes and he doesn't rev the crap out of the motor all the time like some of us do.
Either way, what reflash are you talking about 9800 rpms and 10,400 rpms...
and 14:1 compression? so you're running like 120 octane fuel at all times?
What a dumbass daily driving car...
Either way, what reflash are you talking about 9800 rpms and 10,400 rpms...
and 14:1 compression? so you're running like 120 octane fuel at all times?
What a dumbass daily driving car...
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This thread is awesome. Thank you, Joe.
BTW - I drive pretty much the same as you, maybe a bit more aggressive (I'll hang at 4-5k in traffic) and I figured that was, for the most part, revving the snot out of it.
I run 10w-30 dino in the summer, 5w-30 in the winter.
BTW - I drive pretty much the same as you, maybe a bit more aggressive (I'll hang at 4-5k in traffic) and I figured that was, for the most part, revving the snot out of it.
I run 10w-30 dino in the summer, 5w-30 in the winter.
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I ran 5w40 in my Si last summer (hot as hell) and the engine self smoother on my butt dyno then the 5w30 in 100F+ weather, during Vtec action and long idling in traffic.
10w is simply slightly thicker during start up, but if its 90F+ out side even your 5w is closer to 10w before you even start the car.
10w is simply slightly thicker during start up, but if its 90F+ out side even your 5w is closer to 10w before you even start the car.
I'd hang at 4.5-5k but the engine braking during traffic and drivetrain lash piss me off...The car is too jerky for me to do that alot. So I upshift for smoothness.
11k miles on the latest run of AMSOIL SSO 0w30. About 2-3 months before I hit 16-17k on it. So I'd guess I'll be posting an analysis on this in August.
11k miles on the latest run of AMSOIL SSO 0w30. About 2-3 months before I hit 16-17k on it. So I'd guess I'll be posting an analysis on this in August.
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