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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If I replace the outer should I do the inner too? Does anybody know the purpose of these holes in pan and bracket on subframe?
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You don't have to... But if you're in there and going to get an alignment, it's not that more difficult to change the inner. You can typically rent a tool from autozone or advance auto (you'll need this special tool) for just a deposit.

I like OEM parts for most things, but IMHO Moog suspension parts are some of the best out there...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used import direct. For the control arm,axle,tie rod ends inner and outer and stabilizer links. Master pro struts, doorman hubs and national bearing. Im in the process of replacing inner end now tool tool it off easy. Boot clamp was harder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Both sides are finished. Only things not replaced are caliper and bracket,brake line and speed sensor. I ran out money for now. Only thing I concerned with it I didn't realize the tabs on the inner tie rod end washer are meant to be inserted into the notches in the rack end. I just put the washer onto the male end of the tie rod and just tightened it down without making sure the tabs set into notches. I'm hoping in my turning the tie rod they caught the notches and set in right upon torquing. There is also a washer on the rack shaft that's meant to be slide up to washer to lock in the tabs. The washer is small and made of plastic. Next is the rear suspension! Thanks all for the help.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After a month of driving I started getting a bobbling noise. The sound comes at slow speed over bumps. It sounds like the upper strut mount did before I replaced it. It doesn't clank on a hard brake like before tho. I checked all the bolts and everything seems ok. Is there a chance that the upper strut bushing on the new master pro strut is bad or just poor quality? I noticed the rubber boot on the ball joint is cracking already. Import direct complete arm and ball joint. I wonder if I should of spent a bit more and bought ktune arms w/ball joint and a hfp suspension.
 

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The inner is cheap and probably just as worn as the outer. I rented an inner tool, but for some reason it didn't grip very well. You may want to look at a Honda specific inner tierod tool to make the job easier.
 
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