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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry in advance if i am not posting correctly, new to the site and it isnt working to great on my phone. But the car in question is a 2007 civic si sedan just turned 193k miles. Mods include AEM cold air intake, skunk2 full catback exhaust and aftermarket security system made by the company directed, unsure of sub brand alarm since i didnt have it installed. In ohio it has been getting into the below 0 temperature and my tensioner pulley has been going out so was going to start the car to drive to my buddies garage to replace pulley and S belt, buttttttt ot barely cranked due to the battery being dead. Hooked up jumper cables to my GF's car and then set off the aftermarket security system. Reset the security and now it cranks real fast like normal but doesnt start. . . . Fuel pump is kicking on and i smell fuel from the engine with the occasional backfire in the engine area while trying to start. The CEL is NOT on so i figured it couldnt be a sensor causing the no start. I will be pulling the plugs tomorrow and checking them to be fouled, checked all the main fuses to do with starting and running didnt see any blown. Also tried to start while spraying starting spray into the intake with the filter off. I am at a loss, the only thing i can think of is ignition coils or spark plugs. Possibly crank sensor or cam sensor but is it possible for those to be bad without having a CEL on?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes they were. It tried starting before jumping it and nothing, i bought a code reader and it isnt throwing any codes
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Still havent been able to get the car running. At this point i have no idea. Everyone says it cant be a sensor since it isnt throwing any codes and i cant understand why put of nowhere over night it just wont start the next morning
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I checked it with a screw driver and had spark. I sent it yo a shop and they said it has to be iridium plugs, i had put cheap autolite copper plugs in just for simple process of elimination and when i replaced the crank sensor and it still wouldnt start i returned the crank sensor. So the crank sensor was bad. The shop put iridium plugs in and it started just ran like crap and died so new crank sensor is going in tomorrow and should run just fine. So for everyone out there that doesnt know, the k20z3 can only run on iridium plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay so news from the shop, after a new crank sensor and cam sensor, it still does not start. . . . Their not charging me anything since they couldnt fix it. So now it either jumped time all on it own while parked over night. Or its the ecu. . . .
 

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If the car has been indoors this probably isn't your issue, but when my cars need a jump and it's really cold they will turn turn turn and not start, even connected to another car. They sound plenty fast but they just won't fire. The only thing I have found to fix it is to leave the battery on trickle all night and fire it up first thing. It has happened enough times now that I've just accepted it. Near as I can figure it's cold, thick, oil mixed with an incomplete charge keeping the starter from getting up enough speed to trigger the crank sensor. The most recent time was my sister's k24 so it seemed possibly applicable. Hope you get it fixed!
 

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Vtec solenoid?

Some dude told me today that his car cranks but doesn't start because of the vtec solenoid. He said it ran out of oil and took out the solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It had a full synthetic oil change 2 days before this occured, and ive tried to start it on a day it was 52 degrees here in ohio and nothing. I have a new ecu in the car but of course have to find a way to get it to honda to have the key reprogrammed
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have had to replace the vtec solenoid on my 04 crv and it still ran, and it threw a code. Also now that this new ecu is in the fuel gauge goes up then all the way down and the fuel light comes on. I hook my scanner up to it as well and it wont communicate with the ecu
 

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If you have spark, fuel and it cranks but no start, i would look at your timing, especially at 190k+ miles. My FA5 (180k miles) did the same thing after leaving it in 1st on a hill and it rolled back enough to where it jumped time (worn out timing tensioner) with no codes. Had the same symptoms, had spark, injectors, fuel pump, and compression but still would not turn over, pulled the valve covers off and cranked cylinder 1 to TDC and sure enough timing was off. Replaced with new chain and hyrid racing tct, set timing and it starts up fine since then.

If your timing is on point, you might want to check that aftermarket alarm system as something could be preventing it from starting, but definitely check the timing 1st.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I took the valve cover off the other day and the timing chain was tight and the tensioners were solid as well. But seems like i will have to take it to TDC and re check. But i put my old ECU back in the car and now its doing the same thing as the new ecu was doing.
 

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Same problem for me too. 180k changed alternator battery. Going to do spark plugs next. Are the coils supposed to have a little oil on them?
 
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