ok so i did the amp by pass and it sounds 100 times better. thanks for every body's help
07 Full audio system install (updated as I have time)
39
07 Full audio system install (updated 4-8-07)
Ok I need to give major credit do xtv-sidecar's DIY. Thanx man it helped me a TON. I have a few things to contribute. Today was DAY 1 of my install project on my 2007 civic.
Here are the parts I ordered.
Crutchfield Part List
Honda Civic 06-Up Amplifier Bypass for Premium Sound (Item # 120701727)
Honda Antenna Adapter Motorola Male to OEM Female (Item # 12040HD10)
PAC SWI-X Steering Wheel Radio Control Interface (Item # 127SWIX)
In addition to the amp bypass you'll also need a radio wiring harness if you don't want to tap into your factory harness. Do a search for Scosche HA10B or a Metra 1722. I'm using the scosche in my install.
Honda Part List
Center Panel Gray (Part # 77250-SNA-A01ZA)/Center Panel Tan (Part # 77250-SNA-A01ZB)
Passenger Side Radio Bracket (Part # 77255-SNA-A00)
Driver Side Radio Bracket (Part #77256-SNA-A00)
DIN Pocket (Part # 08B60-SCV-100)
First a stock photo of the HU.
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First off disconnect the negative connector on the battery. (10mm socket)
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Then start at the bottom left corner of the steering column panel and pry towards you, (move the steering column panel as far up and out as you can). Once you get the first clip off off your set the rest.
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This is the back of the under steering wheel column panel.
Using a flat head screwdriver pop out the panel under the stock radio near the shifter.
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Ok the next part is a PAIN IN THE ASS!!!!!!!!. At first I used a philips screwdriver but then I realized using a 9mm socket worked better. There are 2 screws at the top of the front console pocket hole. You have to get on your hands and knees and manuever you head so you can see what I'm talking about. There are 2 screws use a socket don't use a screwdriver as mine were really hard to get out and you don't have a lot of room to work with.
Underneath the steering column there is another screw take that out as well. Now your ready to take the drivers side dash off. Again start from the bottom left once you pop the first clip your set for the rest. Don't pull it, give quick shark pulls till each clip gives way.
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Make sure you disconnect the side mirror harnesses.
Now your ready to pull off the audio console. Same thing start bottom left and work your way up and around. You'll end up disconnecting 5 harnesses I believe, 3 of which are in the radio itself. Tuck these 2 wires away for later.
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Now put your 2 audio consoles side by side and remake the new console with the old parts.
![]()
The vent will be the LAST thing you put on because you need to have access to the screws for your new radio bracket. Be carefull taking the lightrings off. I used a flat head screwdriver. First put in the AC/Heating component.
![]()
But be gentle, turn your rings as far to the left as you can so it will be easy to allign to the other console.
![]()
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This is the full assembled audio console - the aftermarket radio.
![]()
Put your radio in with your new brackets and your DIN.
![]()
This is my Alpine IVA-D100 DVD player in the new audio console.
![]()
Now we need to find the factory amp and unplug the damn thing. It's located right under center console below the dash pocket.
![]()
I'm sure it's the same basic removal instructions for a stick, start by prying the area around the shift up and out which will release the center console. Since your battery is disconnected there is a small tab that if you press it in with a key or w/e it will let you shift down or move the shifter out of the way. I'll take pics of this tomorrow for everyone.
You can see your factory amp disconnect the larger harness on the right. Leave this unplugged.
![]()
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Now since I plan on putting a sub in the trunk I need to get a power wire from the battery to the trunk. I looked for a long time to find the best position to drill through the fire wall. Pull up the carpet on the passenger side. Near the center console you will see a hollow pipe looking thing (not sure what this does but you can pull it off it goes back in easily by squeezing the sides and shoving it back through the hole it goes to the outside of the car) right next to this piece of piping drill a hole straight through the first piece of metal and then through the fire wall. I had to go to home depot and get a 1/2 gauge titanium bit and it went through very easily (price was $14.95 on the bit)
![]()
Solder your wires for your speakers. Or cap them w/e you choose.
![]()
Pull the very back of the center console off, should come off easily if you removed the 2 screws on the inside where the CD holder is. This will allow easy access to the carpeting.
![]()
Fish the power wire under the carpet.
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Now pull up the back seat, there are 2 clips on on either side of the seat locking it into place. A good tug will release the clips. They're metal so don't worry you won't break them. Fish the wire under the seat.
![]()
After fishing the power past the back seat, lower you're back seat using the trunk seat release. Finally pull the wire through to the trunk.
![]()
Remove the trunk latch panel and take out the carpet panel covering the spare tire.
![]()
You will see a nice set of grounded wires perfect for you subwoofer or w/e use you have to ground your other wire.
![]()
It's a 10mm socket to remove the bolt.
![]()
Run your ground wire to where your amp will be I ran mine along the sides of behind the carpetting
![]()
![]()
Connect your amp and box and get that thing in the trunk and make your appropriate connections.
![]()
Use a votage meter to test your harness some Scosche HA10B have their power and grounds backwards. Be careful the wires.
Connect up your radio using your manufacturer instructions.
![]()
Make sure it works...
Now it's time to hide the mess of wires all over your car.
![]()
I hid everything under the the factory amp. It requires some kama sutra skills and some patience but don't half ass it. This step is really the most important of all as people will notice lol.
Put your dash back together and marvel at your job well done.
![]()
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![]()
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I have to take a break, I'm tired and it's easter and I'm missing some screws, damn cat -.-.
When it warms up I'll do the PAC programming for video bypass and steering wheel controlls
.
EDITS
4-1-07 Added Part List.
4-1-07 Day 2 sub woofer set up.
4-8-07 HU installed.
Ok I need to give major credit do xtv-sidecar's DIY. Thanx man it helped me a TON. I have a few things to contribute. Today was DAY 1 of my install project on my 2007 civic.
Here are the parts I ordered.
Crutchfield Part List
Honda Civic 06-Up Amplifier Bypass for Premium Sound (Item # 120701727)
Honda Antenna Adapter Motorola Male to OEM Female (Item # 12040HD10)
PAC SWI-X Steering Wheel Radio Control Interface (Item # 127SWIX)
In addition to the amp bypass you'll also need a radio wiring harness if you don't want to tap into your factory harness. Do a search for Scosche HA10B or a Metra 1722. I'm using the scosche in my install.
Honda Part List
Center Panel Gray (Part # 77250-SNA-A01ZA)/Center Panel Tan (Part # 77250-SNA-A01ZB)
Passenger Side Radio Bracket (Part # 77255-SNA-A00)
Driver Side Radio Bracket (Part #77256-SNA-A00)
DIN Pocket (Part # 08B60-SCV-100)
First a stock photo of the HU.
First off disconnect the negative connector on the battery. (10mm socket)
Then start at the bottom left corner of the steering column panel and pry towards you, (move the steering column panel as far up and out as you can). Once you get the first clip off off your set the rest.
This is the back of the under steering wheel column panel.
Using a flat head screwdriver pop out the panel under the stock radio near the shifter.
Ok the next part is a PAIN IN THE ASS!!!!!!!!. At first I used a philips screwdriver but then I realized using a 9mm socket worked better. There are 2 screws at the top of the front console pocket hole. You have to get on your hands and knees and manuever you head so you can see what I'm talking about. There are 2 screws use a socket don't use a screwdriver as mine were really hard to get out and you don't have a lot of room to work with.
Underneath the steering column there is another screw take that out as well. Now your ready to take the drivers side dash off. Again start from the bottom left once you pop the first clip your set for the rest. Don't pull it, give quick shark pulls till each clip gives way.
Now your ready to pull off the audio console. Same thing start bottom left and work your way up and around. You'll end up disconnecting 5 harnesses I believe, 3 of which are in the radio itself. Tuck these 2 wires away for later.
Now put your 2 audio consoles side by side and remake the new console with the old parts.
The vent will be the LAST thing you put on because you need to have access to the screws for your new radio bracket. Be carefull taking the lightrings off. I used a flat head screwdriver. First put in the AC/Heating component.
But be gentle, turn your rings as far to the left as you can so it will be easy to allign to the other console.
This is the full assembled audio console - the aftermarket radio.
Put your radio in with your new brackets and your DIN.
This is my Alpine IVA-D100 DVD player in the new audio console.
Now we need to find the factory amp and unplug the damn thing. It's located right under center console below the dash pocket.
I'm sure it's the same basic removal instructions for a stick, start by prying the area around the shift up and out which will release the center console. Since your battery is disconnected there is a small tab that if you press it in with a key or w/e it will let you shift down or move the shifter out of the way. I'll take pics of this tomorrow for everyone.
You can see your factory amp disconnect the larger harness on the right. Leave this unplugged.
Now since I plan on putting a sub in the trunk I need to get a power wire from the battery to the trunk. I looked for a long time to find the best position to drill through the fire wall. Pull up the carpet on the passenger side. Near the center console you will see a hollow pipe looking thing (not sure what this does but you can pull it off it goes back in easily by squeezing the sides and shoving it back through the hole it goes to the outside of the car) right next to this piece of piping drill a hole straight through the first piece of metal and then through the fire wall. I had to go to home depot and get a 1/2 gauge titanium bit and it went through very easily (price was $14.95 on the bit)
Solder your wires for your speakers. Or cap them w/e you choose.
Pull the very back of the center console off, should come off easily if you removed the 2 screws on the inside where the CD holder is. This will allow easy access to the carpeting.
Fish the power wire under the carpet.
Now pull up the back seat, there are 2 clips on on either side of the seat locking it into place. A good tug will release the clips. They're metal so don't worry you won't break them. Fish the wire under the seat.
After fishing the power past the back seat, lower you're back seat using the trunk seat release. Finally pull the wire through to the trunk.
Remove the trunk latch panel and take out the carpet panel covering the spare tire.
You will see a nice set of grounded wires perfect for you subwoofer or w/e use you have to ground your other wire.
It's a 10mm socket to remove the bolt.
Run your ground wire to where your amp will be I ran mine along the sides of behind the carpetting
Connect your amp and box and get that thing in the trunk and make your appropriate connections.
Use a votage meter to test your harness some Scosche HA10B have their power and grounds backwards. Be careful the wires.
Connect up your radio using your manufacturer instructions.
Make sure it works...
Now it's time to hide the mess of wires all over your car.
I hid everything under the the factory amp. It requires some kama sutra skills and some patience but don't half ass it. This step is really the most important of all as people will notice lol.
Put your dash back together and marvel at your job well done.
I have to take a break, I'm tired and it's easter and I'm missing some screws, damn cat -.-.
When it warms up I'll do the PAC programming for video bypass and steering wheel controlls
.EDITS
4-1-07 Added Part List.
4-1-07 Day 2 sub woofer set up.
4-8-07 HU installed.
41 - 60 of 303 Posts
hsnap: xxfrozen you have the absolutely best guide in doing a full audio system install. This is great!!!! thanks dude for an awesome write up. I do have a question tho Basicly 3 harness are required the amp bypass ant adaptor and radio harness, now the amp bypass is the solution to deliver the speaker wiring directly to the aftermarket HU, And the radio harness is the only thing im thinking about .... the radio harness only purpose is to deliver power? or does it continue the path to delivering the signal of the speakers?
again thanks for great write up :thumb:
also these harness are for those that dont want to splice their wiring but i just thought of this if i were to drag high end speaker wire from speakers to aftermarket amp woudnt it sound alot better? or is it just pure wasting time trying to drago wires across the entire car?(kicker monster etc) reason why i say this is because im upgrading everything in the sound system (minus the tweets) i got kicker ks 6 1/2 for front and rear kicker zx1500.1 zx850.4 06ds12l52 kicker O guage kit and scosche dash kit, the only thing im missing is my avic-z2 or D3 (due to the bypass) and those harness xxfrozen what you think should i just use the exisiting wiring and go ahead and order the bypass harness (radio harness and ant adaptor came in the dash kit) or should i just run new wiring and what not?
Any wiring guides for us sedan owners? I can figure out speaker wires when I replace stock, but will have to voltage test form remote
3
Hmm well I guess i can't edit the first post. But I did some work today, not too much but enough.
Powering up the woofers
I chose to to use a simple on/off switch for the subwoofers instead of them always being on, somtimes I just want to enjoy music without the woofers and it helps if you want to listen to music in the winter during those cold days, so you don't crack to woofer. Anyway here we go.
First off, I'm sure there is a better way to do this but connect a power wire from your red wire on your radio harness and run it to the power lead on your switch. Take to ground and remote wires from the sub amp and run those to the switch as well, connecting the ground to ground lead on the switch and the remote, to the load lead on the switch. You can get a switch at radio shack or pep boys, radio shack was cheaper I think though.
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Turn the **** on make sure it works. Now what to do about the power wire coming from the battery. Radioshack also has some black loomz that I used to cover the wire. I don't like the colored loomz just because they look blah >_>
![]()
My car's getting really dirty gotta was it
More to come, but sounds wise it's a ton better, I can turn the bass down and turn up the subs now, to turn it up louder, I can't wait to get those crappy stock speakers out of this car.
Powering up the woofers
I chose to to use a simple on/off switch for the subwoofers instead of them always being on, somtimes I just want to enjoy music without the woofers and it helps if you want to listen to music in the winter during those cold days, so you don't crack to woofer. Anyway here we go.
First off, I'm sure there is a better way to do this but connect a power wire from your red wire on your radio harness and run it to the power lead on your switch. Take to ground and remote wires from the sub amp and run those to the switch as well, connecting the ground to ground lead on the switch and the remote, to the load lead on the switch. You can get a switch at radio shack or pep boys, radio shack was cheaper I think though.
Turn the **** on make sure it works. Now what to do about the power wire coming from the battery. Radioshack also has some black loomz that I used to cover the wire. I don't like the colored loomz just because they look blah >_>
My car's getting really dirty gotta was it
More to come, but sounds wise it's a ton better, I can turn the bass down and turn up the subs now, to turn it up louder, I can't wait to get those crappy stock speakers out of this car.
I miss be too drunk because I can't see how to edit or delete posts -.- lolxxfrozen said:Hmm well I guess i can't edit the first post. But I did some work today, not too much but enough.
Powering up the woofers
I chose to to use a simple on/off switch for the subwoofers instead of them always being on, somtimes I just want to enjoy music without the woofers and it helps if you want to listen to music in the winter during those cold days, so you don't crack to woofer. Anyway here we go.
First off, I'm sure there is a better way to do this but connect a power wire from your red wire on your radio harness and run it to the power lead on your switch. Take to ground and remote wires from the sub amp and run those to the switch as well, connecting the ground to ground lead on the switch and the remote, to the load lead on the switch. You can get a switch at radio shack or pep boys, radio shack was cheaper I think though.
![]()
![]()
Turn the **** on make sure it works. Now what to do about the power wire coming from the battery. Radioshack also has some black loomz that I used to cover the wire. I don't like the colored loomz just because they look blah >_>
![]()
My car's getting really dirty gotta was it
More to come, but sounds wise it's a ton better, I can turn the bass down and turn up the subs now, to turn it up louder, I can't wait to get those crappy stock speakers out of this car.
41 - 60 of 303 Posts
