Did the valve adjustment, same issue. This thread explains the exact same problem I’m having Hesitation/ dead miss when accelerating
07 EX 1.8L multiple engine issues / mechanic can't figure it out
Car is 2007 Civic Ex Coupe 1.8L engine 182,000 miles
I'll try to keep this short.
Here are the codes, I go into detail below.
P0172: Bank 1 Too Rich/Fuel Trim
P0300: Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301-P0304: All four cylinders misfire detected
P0108: Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage Input Problem
P2649: "A" Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit High --- I have no idea why this came on or what it is
Possibly a P0400 (EGR not flowing)
This is what I did before the codes came on:
Replaced the EGR valve (and gasket)
Replaced fuel injectors (I made sure to oil all o-rings and do the idle re-learn by disconnecting the battery)
Replaced valve cover gasket (torqued to 7 ft-lbs in the correct order)
New oil and filter
MAP sensor is clean
Throttle body is clean
Battery and alternator are good
Air filter is clean
Compression test - all four cylinders had exactly 180 psi.
No fluid leaks at all
Replaced passenger side engine mount (doing the rest soon)
Replaced spark plugs (torqued correctly)
Replaced ignition coils
All fuses are good
My cousin replaced the fuel pump a while ago but it did not solve anything.
After doing ALL of this, the car still runs bad and puts out these codes. It stalls uphill way too easily (automatic trans btw), clunks when I press the gas again from coasting, and an 18 second 0-60 time. Insanely slow. I can't tell if it's in limp mode or not. I have to hold both pedals with both feet at stop lights. Trans fluid is full (measured with engine running) and looks relatively new. Starts fine in the morning but can take up to 6 seconds to start when already at operating temperature. This started happening immediately after I changed the fuel injectors and still happens a month later. I made sure to oil all o-rings and do the idle re-learn by disconnecting the battery, so it shouldn't take long to start but it does anyway.
If I hold it at any speed for a certain time the whole car will shake for three seconds and then stop shaking, for example when I'm just holding it at 32 or 50 mph, it will shake after a few seconds then stop. I assume this is what triggers P0300 through P0304, because it doesn't have a constant misfire.
When accelerating from a stop, the engine takes up to 3 seconds to grab before it starts accelerating, so I have to ease into the gas. It stutters and shakes and misfires for a good two seconds before finally going. At times it stalls. Catalytic Converter is 400 degrees at operating temperature. My mechanic says it should be 300 F normally. In park it will not rev directly to 5k, it stutters twice and then reaches 5k.
I'm hoping somebody has some guidance or previous experience with this issue that can help. Everything seems like it should be fine on the outside yet it still does this.
I need it to work properly and be reliable.
My next thought is to do a valve adjustment since I'm running out of options.
I'll try to keep this short.
Here are the codes, I go into detail below.
P0172: Bank 1 Too Rich/Fuel Trim
P0300: Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301-P0304: All four cylinders misfire detected
P0108: Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage Input Problem
P2649: "A" Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit High --- I have no idea why this came on or what it is
Possibly a P0400 (EGR not flowing)
This is what I did before the codes came on:
Replaced the EGR valve (and gasket)
Replaced fuel injectors (I made sure to oil all o-rings and do the idle re-learn by disconnecting the battery)
Replaced valve cover gasket (torqued to 7 ft-lbs in the correct order)
New oil and filter
MAP sensor is clean
Throttle body is clean
Battery and alternator are good
Air filter is clean
Compression test - all four cylinders had exactly 180 psi.
No fluid leaks at all
Replaced passenger side engine mount (doing the rest soon)
Replaced spark plugs (torqued correctly)
Replaced ignition coils
All fuses are good
My cousin replaced the fuel pump a while ago but it did not solve anything.
After doing ALL of this, the car still runs bad and puts out these codes. It stalls uphill way too easily (automatic trans btw), clunks when I press the gas again from coasting, and an 18 second 0-60 time. Insanely slow. I can't tell if it's in limp mode or not. I have to hold both pedals with both feet at stop lights. Trans fluid is full (measured with engine running) and looks relatively new. Starts fine in the morning but can take up to 6 seconds to start when already at operating temperature. This started happening immediately after I changed the fuel injectors and still happens a month later. I made sure to oil all o-rings and do the idle re-learn by disconnecting the battery, so it shouldn't take long to start but it does anyway.
If I hold it at any speed for a certain time the whole car will shake for three seconds and then stop shaking, for example when I'm just holding it at 32 or 50 mph, it will shake after a few seconds then stop. I assume this is what triggers P0300 through P0304, because it doesn't have a constant misfire.
When accelerating from a stop, the engine takes up to 3 seconds to grab before it starts accelerating, so I have to ease into the gas. It stutters and shakes and misfires for a good two seconds before finally going. At times it stalls. Catalytic Converter is 400 degrees at operating temperature. My mechanic says it should be 300 F normally. In park it will not rev directly to 5k, it stutters twice and then reaches 5k.
I'm hoping somebody has some guidance or previous experience with this issue that can help. Everything seems like it should be fine on the outside yet it still does this.
I need it to work properly and be reliable.
My next thought is to do a valve adjustment since I'm running out of options.
1 - 4 of 5 Posts
Why did no one reply? I tried to give as much information as possible, was it too much information?
I had unplugged a lot of wires around the intake side just to see if the engine would sound different. Now that I think about it, it must've thrown this code right as I unplugged it while it was on. The only code that remains is fuel trim rich and the misfires.Also, the P2649... is that indicating an unexpected voltage at the VTEC solenoid? Just wondering out loud. If so, it's interesting that voltages are out of bounds both there and at the MAP sensor. I'm just speculating though. You could try checking the wiring to those two areas.
I most recently installed aftermarket ones, but the sluggishness and hesitation was there before I installed those. It made no difference in the problem. I will just get new OEM injectors again.Did you use Honda fuel injectors? The reason I ask is that I once troubleshooted a problem by replacing one injector at a time, each injector in turn, with a non-Honda injector, and it was clear that the injector was not compatible with my car. At one point, it even went into limp mode and the Check Engine Light was flashing. As soon as I got back to all Honda injectors, the problem went away.
Sidenote: My car alarm goes off randomly after locking the vehicle. Today it happened twice (5 minutes after I locked it and again 3 hours after I got home.)
1 - 4 of 5 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
8th Generation Honda Civic Forum
We’re a community for 8th Gen 2006 - 2011 Civic owners to discuss performance mods, body kits, Si models, turbo kits and accessories. Come Join the club!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Top Contributors this Month
View All
fraser386
22 Replies
Megaman X
19 Replies
StaticRRFA5
17 Replies
Recommended Communities
