hey noticed on an old forum that you had pro kits then switched to neuspeeds. I am on pro kits right now and looking to change. they are too mushy. are the neuspeed sports that much lower? I dont want to be that low that my front end becomes a snow plow during snow storms. I am also considering s-techs or swifts. hope to hear from you soon.
Im not running spacers but the clearance with -1 camber up front is really close with the N+ so it varies per suspension set up. Ideally +35 up front and +45 for the rear but you wont be able to rotate your tires.
yeah i checked around the price i got of 1450 without tires was pretty much the standard other than a few places that were out of control for them. There good looking wider wheel that a few lbs than stock and thats different. So thats pretty much why i chose anything else. I will look into those tires, the yoks are a good street tire just too soft of sidewall its kinda mooshy on turns and not as inspiriing as some tires i had before. Oh and sorry bout ur car did you try get etuned by rulo or one of his freinds? I know rulo spent 4hrs with me fixing a dyno tune that was simply trash and it turned out good. My car would make my eyes bleed in terms of richness and smoke and backfire like i was being chased down by a shotgun barrell. Now its runs like factory just very bored of my power and need to finish my ips install and rrc manifold such.
Coming from JDMLand, I know they weren't the most "financially friendly" wheels on the market, of course I highly doubt you'll run into anybody else with a set. I know it's rude to ask but what did they end up running you without tires? opcorn: If you're not all that Jazzed with your current tires you should check out the Falken Azenis 615K's. They're awesome and have never let me down, although they don't have the longest lifespan due to their sticky nature.
My car would be doing a lot better if it were running on a complete tune (long story). It's down on power, belches black smoke when I get on the throttle, I've got tire rubs, etc, etc. All that said, it's still a lot more fun to drive than my first Si (R.I.P. :sadface: ).
I dont know what it was i replaced mugen with stock shifter, seems to be good now. The mugen doesnt feel tight with the hybrid shift cables as it did with stock. The hybrid cables feel nice and snug with the stock assembly. Beats me, now im having cmc issues i have a advanced auto em1 cmc thats starting to slightly leak on me so i have a real em1 honda cmc coming my way. Gonna switch it out and hope for the best.
My apologies for not getting back to you sooner about your question but as you can see I don't frequent the site like I used to. Life moves on; now to your query.
Check #20 :
#21(lock washer) was actually not installed on my shift lever so #20 backed out on it's own from my furious shifting. That was the cause of the play/slop in my case. Added the lock washer & tightened it down & it was GTG until #13 broke on me one day right where #20 screws into it. The Master Tech was dumbfounded to see what I had managed because come to find out #13 is made out of case hardened steel. I was lucky enough that my powertrain warranty was still in effect so that covered all the costs of the repair(tow bill to the dealer, all parts & labor).
Dang, i thought it was bigger... Im getting the Spoon TB and its like 66ish mm on the side that connects to the manifold. I have Skunk2 intake manifold right now. But it doesnt have a crank breather. I was trying to avoid tapping a vacuum port or getting a catchcan. But i guess port matching the RRC is a lot harder. lol. Thanks for the reply man!