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Old 11-22-2014, 10:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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lightweight volk lugs the lightest?

so which lugs are the lightest ones is it the volk ones?

like these?

Volk Racing Rays 17 Hex 12X1.25 Lug Nuts Black W1712125B at RallySportDirect.com

says the whole set is 2 pounds, how much does the stock set weigh? LOL

I think imam grab a set if I have any money sitting around later if they are the lightest ones anyone know or know of other light lugs?

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Old 11-23-2014, 03:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Don't be too crazy about the weight they will all be within 3-5grams of each other.
Rays, Work, KCIS, etc.

I personally like the short Rays Duraluminum.

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Old 11-23-2014, 11:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ultraspeed FA5 View Post
Don't be too crazy about the weight they will all be within 3-5grams of each other.
Rays, Work, KCIS, etc.

I personally like the short Rays Duraluminum.
Sweet, you got a link? where'd you get yurs?
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Old 11-23-2014, 12:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The Short 27mm are 17g and the 35mm are 24g if your OCD.

Check the Vendors first to see if you can get a deal.
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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There are much better ways to drop unsprung and rotational weight.

And I have to say, lug nuts are one area that I'll gladly sacrifice some weight savings in favor of added.strength. The thought of soft aluminum nuts on hard steel studs doesn't sound like a good combo to me.
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Old 11-26-2014, 02:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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There are much better ways to drop unsprung and rotational weight.

And I have to say, lug nuts are one area that I'll gladly sacrifice some weight savings in favor of added.strength. The thought of soft aluminum nuts on hard steel studs doesn't sound like a good combo to me.
Why have they failed or anyone reported failure that we know of? lol any cheaper suggestions for a easier more inexpensive way to reduce rotational mass? Brakes are more expensive and I already have a my favorite light wheel with my favorite tires. And for unsprung what did you do on you Si?
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Old 11-26-2014, 02:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ultraspeed FA5 View Post
The Short 27mm are 17g and the 35mm are 24g if your OCD.

Check the Vendors first to see if you can get a deal.
sweet good info you have on-tap thanks lol 1st ill do a lil research on them then imaa consider upgrading to a set possibly in the near future if I have a extra hundo to throw at em lol
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Old 12-02-2014, 05:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Light weight lugs won't do any thing for performance. Yes, your car might weigh less but this will not affect rotational acceleration because the weight is located very very close to the axis of rotation. The further you get from the axis of rotation, the greater the effect on rotational acceleration.

This is a nice summary that discusses all the different components:
The Effects of Rotational Inertia on Automotive Acceleration

I agree with others above and would be skeptical using soft aluminum lug nuts for such a vital component...but hey, you're car would have a lot less weight if you lost a wheel going through a corner

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Old 12-02-2014, 06:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Light weight lugs won't do any thing for performance. Yes, your car might weigh less but this will not affect rotational acceleration because the weight is located very very close to the axis of rotation. The further you get from the axis of rotation, the greater the effect on rotational acceleration.

This is a nice summary that discusses all the different components:
The Effects of Rotational Inertia on Automotive Acceleration

I agree with others above and would be skeptical using soft aluminum lug nuts for such a vital component...but hey, you're car would have a lot less weight if you lost a wheel going through a corner

Great read thanks imma read it!

I just wonder if the volks are stronger and lighter than the ones im using now cause I believe they are just standard "aftermarket tuner lugs" probably aluminum also? Im sure volk race lugs are for racing they should take care of the engineering to make sure they don't break at the first sign of actual usage lol
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Old 12-02-2014, 07:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Gorilla makes steel lugs. I think Volk makes forged aluminum lugs (a big plus due to high yield strength). Many aftermarket lugs are made of billet 6061 cast aluminum which is a big no no since they are very soft.
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Old 12-03-2014, 10:14 AM   #11 (permalink)
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In case you needed another reason not to go with aluminum lugs:

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Old 12-03-2014, 10:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by blackndecker View Post
In case you needed another reason not to go with aluminum lugs:
image
ima do some reading my interest is drawn now...

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Old 12-03-2014, 11:00 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dar-Dar View Post
Gorilla makes steel lugs. I think Volk makes forged aluminum lugs (a big plus due to high yield strength). Many aftermarket lugs are made of billet 6061 cast aluminum which is a big no no since they are very soft.

This is why I wanted something that was lighter and stronger, cause I have no idea how good or whack my current set of "tuner" lugs are, what if they are weaker than the damned light volks that would actually ADD safety due to them being forged vs my soft aluminum idk wtf brand lugs lol but I wonder if you can get a perfect set that's not aluminum but light and good. What set are you using?

What are the best/light/safest lugs that everyone uses?

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Old 12-03-2014, 11:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Found this piece of interesting literature this lad was giving on the web made a lot of sense:


If anything, I suspect that those lugs were overtorqued (or an impact was used) and the studs themselves failed as a result. Excessive torque + a lot of heat = that much more force stretching the stud as the aluminum hub of the wheel expanded, and the studs snapped because of it.

It is true that aluminum lugs require some sense and attention that steel lugs don't. Steel lugs are much less sensitive to being overtorqued and less likely to fail from being overtorqued. Steel lugs are much less likely to be cross threaded. The weight saved by aluminum lugs is negligible. Good lugs are a serious safety concern. All of those things are true.

But I've had a set of the Volk 'Duralumin' lugs for a LONG time and yes that included track time and lots of driving like an *******. Zero damage, zero issues. I've seen plenty of problems with wheels & studs too. But these are the more common problems:

-Incorrect lugs for a given wheel or wheel design - using conical 'tuner' lugs on stock wheels designed for flat lugs, or vice versa. They torque the **** out of it and all of that lug torque is being imparted on a very, very small area of aluminum right around the outside edge of the lug hole of the wheel itself. The aluminum itself is compressed and 'beaten down' over time, and eventually the stud/lug will fail because the material shift results in it loosening up, and it fails just the same as if it wasn't torqued down enough. Other times, a lug might be the correct seat type to be used on that wheel, but the studs are too short and very little thread engagement can be made, and some dip**** thinks nothing of spinning a lug only three times to get it seated before torquing it to 90ft-lbs or whatever. The lack of thread area means the force is only held by a small portion of the lug nut and the stud itself, and a decent hit it strips it all out.

-Lack of hubcentric rings on strong wheels + decent impact = bent wheel studs. Without a hubcentric ring, your studs are supporting all of that mass in shear. The hubcentric ring (or your wheels of correct centerbore) should support the weight & force, the studs should be holding the wheel on to the hub. The studs shouldn't be asked to do both.

-5x120.7 wheel on a 5x114.3 hub + impact gun = bent studs & ruined wheels. I've seen a few MK3 guys do this, usually with Corvette wheels.

-mixing 1.25mm and 1.5mm pitch lugs/studs and using an impact to 'make it work' = ruined studs & lugs. Most famously illustrated in the video of the FD with its wheels falling off at ~5mph

In short, there's a lot of ways to **** that up, and using aluminum lugs does add a few more ways to **** things up. Some people hate not being able to use an impact, and that's understandable. It's a safety issue, and some folks are obsessive about removing as many variables as possible from potential safety issues. I don't agree with that mentality, but it's understandable.
So if you don't mind attending to those details, aluminum lugs are just fine. If you don't want to think about new variables like that, steel or titanium is the way to go, of course.








lug nuts or stude its just not safe to run aluminum on your wheel because your wheel, especially the wheel stud section, gets extremely hot and when aluminium get heated up than they will sure to fail. there are better alternative to save weight.
The wheel itself is aluminum in that same area, and is subjected to a great deal of heat and force - should we all switch to steel wheels now? A wheel lug has to hold a great deal of force on a very small area, yes, but that's why it's important to make sure you've got enough thread engagement (number of times a lug spins freely down the stud before needing a wrench to torque it down further) and why extended wheel studs are required in a lot of racing classes.

The heating factor is mitigated in the lug itself, because a seated lug dissipates heat into the wheel just the same way a seated valve in a cylinder head does. When the aluminum alloy wheel and the lug nut are both made of the same material, it avoids dissimilar expansion rate problems, and aluminum itself is fantastic at dissipating heat. Aluminum doesn't have the shear strength and the flexibility of steel, though, so you have to be mindful of those limitations - which in the case of aluminum lugs, means you shouldn't use an impact gun, and you should always make sure that there's enough thread engagement for the torque value your wheels/car require.

Lug/stud failures usually are the result of insufficient thread engagement combined with excessive torque, and steel lug nuts won't save you from that problem.
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Old 12-03-2014, 05:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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what about these? forged alumite? look pretty sik in bronze..

Evasive Motorsports | PH: 626.336.3400 Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm PST: Buddy Club P-1 Racing Lug Nuts

Since I have buddy club p1 wheels maybe its best I get these buddy club p1 lugs? LOL would be a perfect mating
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Old 12-03-2014, 06:01 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Many people will break aluminum lug nuts (even high quality Rays/Volks) from careless over torquing (like you posted). If you tighten a threaded aluminum piece on a threaded steel stud, the aluminum will give and the threads will break. Always torque lug nuts (aluminum or steel) with a torque wrench. Lol. Even some people manage to strip steel lug nuts or steel studs from over torquing. I have a 300ftlbs (4-settings) impact gun where I use the full 300ftlbs for removing and 75lbs for putting the lugs on. Then a torque wrench to have the proper torque set.

I would trust Rays lugs more than the Buddyclubs.
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Old 12-03-2014, 06:14 PM   #17 (permalink)
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wtf is chome vanadium?

Evasive Motorsports | PH: 626.336.3400 Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm PST: Muteki SR48 Wheel Locks - Chrome Titanium (Open Ended)


made by muteki
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Old 12-03-2014, 06:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dar-Dar View Post
Many people will break aluminum lug nuts (even high quality Rays/Volks) from careless over torquing (like you posted). If you tighten a threaded aluminum piece on a threaded steel stud, the aluminum will give and the threads will break. Always torque lug nuts (aluminum or steel) with a torque wrench. Lol. Even some people manage to strip steel lug nuts or steel studs from over torquing. I have a 300ftlbs (4-settings) impact gun where I use the full 300ftlbs for removing and 75lbs for putting the lugs on. Then a torque wrench to have the proper torque set.

I would trust Rays lugs more than the Buddyclubs.
lol thing is I have buddy club wheels so isn't it a perfect match? I happen to take a liking to buddy club stuff I dig em lol

also what are you torqueing your tuner lugs to a maximum of?

also where is the cheapest place to get an torque wrench? need one of those pesky things already!
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Old 12-03-2014, 10:04 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Buddy Club is made in Taiwan. It used to be a company that made quality parts but the name was sold years ago to a Taiwanese company. So basically it's name brand "made in China". Use at your own risk.
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Old 12-03-2014, 10:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
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lol thing is I have buddy club wheels so isn't it a perfect match? I happen to take a liking to buddy club stuff I dig em lol

also what are you torqueing your tuner lugs to a maximum of?

also where is the cheapest place to get an torque wrench? need one of those pesky things already!
The answer to your last question is Harbor Freight. If you're using made in China wheels and lug nuts...then you may as well use a made in China torque wrench.

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