DIY: Fuel Return Setup (Only Cage Modify) - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum
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Old 01-18-2012, 05:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY: Fuel Return Setup (Only Cage Modify)

alright guys, had some time on my hands so here is how to do a fuel return setup using an in tank pump. it works well for the Walbro 255 and the DW 300, its not really hard to do, if you have any mechanical ability of using a drill and adjustable wrench then you can do this. so here we go....

FITTINGS NEEDED
  • -8an or -6an straight bulkhead fitting (depending on what size you want your feed)

  • -8an or -6an bulkhead nut


  • -8an or -6an plastic washer

  • -6an 90 degree push to lock


    **ONLY IF USING -8AN BULKHEAD FITTING FOR A -8 FEED**
  • -8an to -6an reducer

  • (2) 1ft x 3/8" submersible fuel hose (http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=541)

  • Various size hose clamps

LETS DO THIS!

1) Remove the fuel cage out the car and remove the fuel pump from the cage (DIY for this step is https://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...-improved.html)

2) Since you will be using a external fuel pressure regulator you need to remove the OEM regulator from the cage. Right next to where the fuel pump is, theres a lil cylinder with 3 tabs holding a cover for the OEM regulator. Pop these tabs off and remove the regulator. Then replace the plastic ring back into the regulator holder (think its a ground ring) and pop the cap back on






3) Next remove the plastic feed hose running from the feed fitting on top of the cage and where it connects to the OEM regulator




4) Now the fun part. WITH THE PUMP OUT THE CAGE STILL, take a dremal, cutting wheel, or whatever you want to use to cut plastic and cut about 1/2 to 3/4 of the plastic that the outlet of the pump fits into. You need to cut enough off to get a 3/8 hose onto the pump outlet and a clamp. Take your time and go little by little while test fitting the pump to see if enough of the outlet is showing. (i didnt take a picture of this process but this is what it should look like with the pump installed)


5) Next is drilling the top of the cage to fit the bulkhead fitting. I found that the best place to put it is to the left of where the plastic return fitting is on top of cage, seems like the most room. If you are using a -8an bulkhead i think the drill bit size is a 1/2". If you are using a -6an bulkhead the drill bit is a 3/8". (Some dremel/sanding might need to be done after the hole is drilled, just sand very lightly until the bulkhead fitting drops in)


Also slightly sand down the webbing/crosshatches with a dremel underneath (on inside of cage) so that the nut will sit flush when tightened


6) Put the plastic washer on the bulkhead fitting (so it sits outside the cage) then drop the bulkhead through the hole you just drilled. Lock the nut onto the fitting from the inside and tighten the fitting to the cage. i also put a little silicone around the perimeter of the washer up top just to make sure its sealed, thats up to you though.






**THIS STEP IS ONLY FOR THE PEOPLE WHO ARE USING A -8AN BULKHEAD FITTING, IF YOU USING -6AN, SKIP TO NEXT STEP

6.5) Since the hose we will be using for the pump is a 3/8" hose (AKA -6an) you need to reduce the -8an to a -6an. screw the reducer on and tighten down


7) Now screw the 90 degree push to lock fitting on and tighten down. make sure its facing away from pump (look at picture to understand).You have to wrap the hose around the cage so that when you compress the cage the hose wont kink.




8) Clean the cage up, brake fluid, make sure there is no plastic shavings anywhere. Install the fuel pump back into the cage.

9) Take the 3/8" submersible fuel hose, push it onto the -6an push to lock fitting and hose clamp it down. Wrap the hose around the cage and put onto the outlet of the pump, clamp it down. compress the cage a couple of times to see if the line kinks anywhere. if it does, modify so it doesnt (Duh)






10) Now onto your return side. take another piece of 3/8" hose and slide it onto the plastic fitting that you took the plastic off earlier to the OEM regulator. clamp the hose onto the fitting. NOT TOO TIGHT CAUSE FITTING IS FRAGILE AND MIGHT CRACK. then run the hose straight down into the basket. cut the hose short enough that its not hitting the bottom of the cage/basket while its compressed. you can just leave it there or slide the hose under the lil bracket it has there.




AND YOUR DONE!!!! CONGRATS!!! just make sure if you unplugged any of the wires in the cage to plug them back in and install the cage back into the car Now the rest of the return is a cake walk.

FEED LINE
steel or nylon braided fuel hose and hose ends (at whatever size the bulkhead fitting in the cage is) and run the feed to the front of the car. dont forget to put an inline fuel filter on the way up there and plug it to your rail. need about 20ft of hose.

RETURN LINE
return line can be ran one of two ways. USE -6AN HOSE/ENDS FOR RETURN
1) Rail ---> Regulator ---> OEM feed plastic line on firewall **If you chose this route you need approx 6ft of hose to be safe**








OR

2) Rail ---> Regulator ---> All the way back to cage and onto the plastic fitting to the right of the bulkhead fitting we just installed. **If you chose this route you will need another 20ft of hose**

MORE FUEL!!!!!!!

EDIT: Here you guys go, ill make this DIY more easier. Cheapest place to buy the fuel lines is summit racing. I cant help you with the hose ends cuz everybody needs different bends according to where you mount regulator and stuff...

20ft -8AN Steel Braided (Feed Only)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230820/

20ft -8AN Nylon Braided (Feed Only)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-240820B/

20ft -6AN Steel Braided (Feed or Return)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230620/

20ft -6AN Nylon Braided (Feed or Return)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-240620B/

6ft -6AN Steel Braided (Return Using the OEM feed line)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230606/

6ft -6AN Nylon Braided (Return Using the OEM feed line)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-240606B/

**After using both hose types, the nylon braided is sooooooo much better. A lot easier to work with, bend, put the hose ends on, cut, everything. Plus i think it looks better, well worth the extra money**


Last edited by Str8JDM; 08-09-2012 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 01-18-2012, 06:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm doing a gt30 greddy upgrade build, would this be of use to me?

Also would have anything to do with that tsi fitting on the oil pan?
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rockawearbadboy View Post
I'm doing a gt30 greddy upgrade build, would this be of use to me?

Also would have anything to do with that tsi fitting on the oil pan?
i dont think you would need this. a set of 1000cc injectors will be fine for you.

the tsi fitting on the oil pan? i dont know what that would have to do with this...
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thought tsi had a return line that went to the timing chain tensioner cover?


great DIY...more pics about lines
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Old 01-18-2012, 08:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ainokea_Si View Post
thought tsi had a return line that went to the timing chain tensioner cover?


great DIY...more pics about lines
i really didnt think i needed pics of the lines. its really self explanatory run the line to the front of the car and attach it to your rail, lol
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Old 01-18-2012, 08:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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hahaha word. true true...uh maybe just some pics of the FPR?
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Old 01-18-2012, 08:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ill dig them up from my old thread
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Old 01-18-2012, 08:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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there you go, added pictures to one of the return side choices if anybody is confused....

the feed line and the other return line option is just common sense, feed=run a line from the bulkhead under the car to the engine bay, return=out the bottom of the regulator under the bottom of the car back to the plastic oem fitting on the cage

thats my old setup by the way, my new setup i ran all the way back to the cage with -6an hose. check my build thread for pictures by the end of the week

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Old 01-19-2012, 12:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockawearbadboy View Post
Also would have anything to do with that tsi fitting on the oil pan?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ainokea_Si View Post
thought tsi had a return line that went to the timing chain tensioner cover?
that is for oil
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks. How long of a line would I need to go from the fuel system to the rail? 15 feet?
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rockawearbadboy View Post
Thanks. How long of a line would I need to go from the fuel system to the rail? 15 feet?
20ft to be safe
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks. I'll go to autozone and just buy like 40ft of rubber lines. The boost/oil/coolant can all be used by the same rubber line?
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:30 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm such a noob I'm sorry
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rockawearbadboy View Post
Thanks. I'll go to autozone and just buy like 40ft of rubber lines. The boost/oil/coolant can all be used by the same rubber line?
NOOOOOOO!!!! steel braided or nylon braided fuel line! EVERYTHING IS EXPLAINED IN THE OP...
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Old 01-19-2012, 03:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Sorry lol I didn't fully read it. Okay thanks.
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Old 01-19-2012, 03:42 PM   #18 (permalink)
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ill make this DIY even easier and post up the links to get the line
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Old 01-19-2012, 03:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I love you .. now do you see why I need your help installing this thing Lmao
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Old 01-19-2012, 03:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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added the fuel lines at the end of the thread. Summit the best place to get the lines, cheap and fast shipping. My .02, if your not shooting for over 500whp, theres no need to run a hose all the way back to the tank for the return. put the hose into the OEM feed line on the firewall like in the pictures and it will save you money and work just as well....

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