DIY: Redshift Coilover install and aftermarket rear Camber Arms (In-Depth) - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Talking DIY: Redshift Coilover install and aftermarket rear Camber Arms (In-Depth)

Before I started this install I made sure to do some research on the procedure, therefore a lot of the information I've outlined and presented below is based off of my own experiences and these DIYs:


Bludragon's Redshift DIY: (https://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...l#post10386783)
BlueSi4's Skunk2 Pro-C DIY: (https://www.8thcivic.com/forums/diy-h...coilovers.html)
MonkeyConQueso's B&G DIY: (https://www.8thcivic.com/forums/diy-h...tml#post899939)

Props to these guys for getting me started off on the right foot! Also props to Bludragon who sold me this coilover set!

The main reason I'm doing this is simply because I found that some pieces of information I was still left to guess at even going off of what I'd already researched. So hopefully this is as in-depth as anyone will need if they're starting off having never done an install like this before (like I was until the end of today).


Summary: Installing the Redshift pre-built coilovers with ASR camber plates including rear koni shock/damper/strut and eibach springs; installing aftermarket rear camber arms (Godspeed arms used in this DIY). This DIY will NOT cover installing/building front struts. Please direct yourself to the above links for more info.

Things to note in general (I.E. very important to make this easier):

1) Honda OEM tools are all metric. Most if not all aftermarket parts manufactured in the US are American Standard/Imperial sizing. Keep this in mind when choosing allen keys and wrenches, depending on whether it's for the aftermarket part or for the OEM part. Some pictures below will even have this error which I will correct.

2) When tightening all of your bolts down, where applicable or possible (some areas are just too hard without the proper tools), follow Honda's OEM torque specs. Over-tightening can be just as bad as under-tightening.

3) When a bolt or nut isn't in use or going to be used again for a while, if possible reattach the bolt or nut to its original location (lug nuts to the hub/studs for example) to make sure you don't lose them, they're easy to reach, and hey it might save your threads as well.

4) Take some extra time to save yourself later on with a little preventative maintenance. Any bolts you remove that are threading back into other metals, use some silicone paste or antiseize and cover the threads of the bolt before reinstalling. This will make it easier to remove again come future changes, repairs, etc. Also make sure you are aware what these pastes CANNOT be used on before applying. Yes there are some materials or instances where other options are better.

5) Rust sucks. Sometimes you're going to need some penetrative spray and heat to get some bolts moving. Be careful when going into He-Man mode and thinking you'll get the bolt off even if it kills you. Not only will you most likely end up spitting curses at an injured limb, you'll very likely strip, de-thread, or break the part you're fighting. This is where (if you're lucky enough) a propane or even better acetylene torch comes in handy. NOTE: DO NOT USE THE ACETYLENE TO CUT!!! THIS IS FOR HEATING PURPOSES ONLY. Please be comfortable with this tool before use. It is really not a toy for the faint at heart, serious injury CAN occur if not used properly.

6) Lastly, this is a job that can be done in as little as 3-6 hours, but only of course if everything goes to plan. If you daily your car like I do, expect complications and adjust your time off for the entire job accordingly. You don't want to be stuck with your car on stands and no time to get everything back together. I was lucky enough to have two days off back to back, so no pressure, and it could be done at my leisure. Each rear suspension took me 1.5-3 hours, the fronts 4 hours total (some complications, some preventative maintenance, and a few pictures)


Tools Needed (Please shout out if I've forgotten something):

Hydraulic jack AND jack stands (If you don't have jack stands, get something else under there like a cylinder block. Just not worth putting your life on the one jack)
Sockets/wrenches (air tools* make these a TON easier for the record; be aware they are not to be used for everything though):
  • 12mm
    14mm
    17mm
    19mm
    6" and 12" driver extensions
Allen Keys:
  • 4mm
    5mm
    6mm
    1/8"
    3/8"
Slotted/Flathead screwdriver
Cord/Cordless Screw Gun
3/8" metal drill bit
3/8" nutsert (with accompanying allen bolts) & nutsert tool (supplied by Redshift; tool NOT pictured, I used a different tool than what was given)

Optional/Suggested tools:

Pliers/Needlenose Pliers
Antiseize/silicone paste
White Lithium grease
Spring compressor (This may or may not be needed for the rear springs, I was able to just pull mine out; for those without pre-built coils, this tool is a must)
Air wrench/Air impact gun (for the really stubborn bolts)
Knuckle joint (air tool oriented; can be used with ratchet)
Rust penetrative spray (WD-40, Jig-A-Loo, etc)
Propane/acetylene torch (use at your own risk and skill level)
Rubber Mallet


On to the install!!!

Start off by laying out all of your newly aquired purchases on bubble wrap/work mat to ensure you have ALL the parts you need. This will also give you a good mental space on what to do next as you're working through everything.

Ensure all nuts, bolts and screws are fastened properly before beginning. I used a metric allen key for the ASR plates, please make sure to use the correct American Standard/Imperial allen key. I was lucky that the metric's happened to fit correctly. pictured are 4mm and 6mm respectively.



For the ASR plates, centre the plate (see bottom coil as opposed to top) so it is even on both sides, and tighten only the two middle bolts. You will access only two of the other bolts (left or right) once installed, depending on your camber goal.


Before jacking the car up, break the lug nuts off of the wheels you're going to be working with (if you're making this an all day, front and back install, do all four tires). I started with the fronts.

Front suspension:

Jack the car up in the appropriate locations, putting jack stands under the reinforced unibody points. If using two or four jack stands, repeat until car is resting level side to side on the two stands, or completely level on all four stands. Remove the wheels and set off to the side (depending on your tires, keep in mind where each wheel originated from in the even you want to put them back in the same spot or wish to rotate them).


Remove the green/beige/grey ABS line clip from the strut. Needle nose pliers help a lot; squeeze the two sides of the clip from the back and push/pull out. Leave off to the side and out of the way.



Remove the 12mm bolt holding the brake line in place. Leave the brake line off to the side and out of the way.


Place a jack underneath the lower control arm to keep the assembly from falling. There are two bolts attaching the strut to the wheel assembly. One side is 19mm, the other 17mm. Remove the top one first. Once out, pull the rotor towards yourself to provide a little more room. Remove the lower bolt.


Pull the strut towards the front of the car slightly, to ensure it doesn't get caught when removing.


Pop the hood and remove the plastic cowl that holds the windshield sprayers (be careful of the windshield fluid line underneath), by removing three tabs that hold it in place. Put your wipers up halfway (turn key off before they come back down) beforehand to make this easier. Pull up and towards yourself to remove. Remove the wiper fluid line on the left side of the cowl. Pop the front panel covers on each side to access the top of the strut, a slotted screwdriver may be needed.
PICS TO BE UPDATED

You will see three 14mm nuts. Remove two of these and loosen the last one to the very top. Either get a friend or simply reach underneath (not that far really) and lift the OEM strut until the last bolt is free floating. This is to ensure the strut does not fall when the final nut is released. Unscrew the last nut from the top (careful not to loose these) and pull the strut out from underneath carefully.



Comparison of OEM vs Redshift.


Check to make sure you are grabbing the correct strut for that side of the car, the ABS clip and brake line can only attach on one side (compare against the OEM you just removed to be sure). Position the ASR plate so the flattest side is towards the motor or inside wall, your sliders should be horizontal to the car and not parallel (they need to slide side to side, not front to back).


Slide the strut up into the body with one hand and looking down from above, guide the plate and bolts to their correct positions and attach at least one nut. You can also leave the strut to sit on the lower assembly, I don't advise this though due to the risk of it slipping and falling. Reattach and snugly tighten all three nuts to the strut. You will be able to see the top of the ASR plate at this point. Note that only the middle and one side of the remaining bolts can be tightened. Either tighten the side available or set your camber as desired (I'm getting a custom alignment done so I left mine centered for now) and then tighten the remaining available bolts.


Reattach the top and bottom bolts for the strut to the wheel assembly (starting with the bottom is easier).
Reattach the 12mm brake line to the strut.
Reattach the ABS sensor clip to the strut.
Repeat on other side (remember lefty loosey, righty tighty!!!)



Rear Suspension:

Before starting on the rear suspension, again, check to make sure you have every component. If you are installing aftermarket camber arms, assemble any parts that may require so beforehand to make the install faster. For the Godspeed arms used here, I found it easiest to install the washer and C-clip onto one side of the flanged rod first, before applying some white lithium grease to the bushings and rod. This made sure that the rod couldn't be pushed too far and also aligned the other side for the washer and C-clip. Note that on the Godspeed camber arms, the bushing are not one piece, rather an insert on either side, so when installing the rod make sure the other side of the bushing isn't popping out since it's quite a tight fit (...lol).
Make sure you have set the spring perches to your desired height and that both are measure to be the same.




If you haven't already done so, break the wheel lug nuts, properly jack the car up onto jack stands, and remove the wheel. Remove the 12mm or 14mm bolt holding the brake line bracket to the body.


Using a slotted screwdriver, push the sides of the black clip aside to remove the brake line from the clip.


Remove the ABS sensor clip from the damper. Leave both lines off to the side and out of the way.


Place a jack underneath the assembly to prevent it from falling. Remove the 17mm bolt holding the wheel assembly to the rear camber arm. Using a power tool here makes it easy. Otherwise it has been suggested to loosen the 10mm bolt above and then proceeding to the 17mm bolt for the camber arm.


Remove the 17 mm bolt holding the damper to the assembly. Leave the damper inside the bracket for now to ensure it doesn't accidentally fall out later.


Open the trunk and using a slotted screwdriver, release the three black pins holding the trunk liner in place.



Using a 5mm allen key and 14mm wrench, loosen and remove the nut from the top of the damper (This part may take a bit, not sure why Honda left so much thread space here...). You may want to keep the OEM nut and washer in case you need them again. Proceed to remove the damper from the lower bracket by pushing up until you are free to slide the bottom down and out of the way. Again watch for those brake and ABS lines.


At this point it was recommended in other DIYs to loosen and disconnect the endlinks to the sway bar from the lower wheel assembly. I initially followed this advice, but after stripping the allen key bolt halfway through and realizing the rest could be done otherwise, continued without removing or loosening the endlinkage any further.
**Note I do know this endlink is now loosened and not secured properly, primarily due to my haste and frustration from the difficult and rusted nut and bolt. I'll be having my alignment shop take a look at it and fix it. Under any other circumstance, do not leave the endlinkage this way. You run the risk of damaging the linkage and assembly**

To remove the rear spring, there are a few options to choose from. The easiest route (one I used) is to simply push down on the lower control arm and pull the spring out from the bottom. Do not do this with excessive force or speed, the rubber at the bottom of the spring will give eventually and allow the spring to slide free, just be patient with a firm pull. This method also runs the risk of slipping and hurting yourself so keep that in mind. Other methods include using a breaker bar to hold the lower arm down and removing the spring or by utilizing a spring compressor to allow for more room. Which one you choose will come down to each car, some end up being easier than the other. Mine was quite simple and no excessive force was needed.


If you are installing aftermarket camber arms now is the best time to remove the two bolts holding the OEM arm in place to the body.


Remove the OEM arm and install the new arm, either using the included bolts (make sure the threads match) or using the old bolts (good time to again apply some antiseize). Move the newly installed arm up and down to check for any possible binding. With the grease it should move smoothly.


NOTE: On the passenger side, the exhaust may be in the way of these bolts. This is where a knuckle joint attachment with a 6" or 12" extension will come in handy.


Installing the nutserts to hold the Redshift spring perches in places is next. You will either need the special hand tool used for exactly this (pictured), or the one included from Redshift. Either will work, I found using the hand clamp to be easier (was also at my disposal and did not have to be purchased. keep this in mind). You will need to drill out the OEM perch to 3/8" using a 3/8" metal drill bit. This is where it can become VERY tricky. Most cordless screw guns with the bit on will not fit between the OEM perch and the lower control arm.



I was forced to carefully drill this out on an angle, filing the rough edges down afterwards. The supplied nutserts from Redshift have a fairly low tolerance and need the hole to almost be a perfect 3/8" tight. If you accidentally make the hole bigger than required you will have two choices (since I did this, even just slightly), otherwise when you insert the nutsert with the tool attached (when you tighten the tool to bulge the lower half of the nutsert to fit and squeeze against the drilled hole) it won't have enough purchase and will slip in place.
First choice is to find larger nutserts and corresponding bolts and tool to match (keep in mind the bolt must fit through the spring perch). The second choice is as follows, this is what forced me to find alternate nutserts and their corresponding hand tool, which (lucky for me) happened to exist in the shop where I was working: the tool used and the nutserts used, although the same diameter and thread, had a higher tolerance and bulged further and more completely than the ones supplied and so I was good to go.
**This was the largest area of concern for me as I've never used nutserts before. Hence why I've focused on this a little more than other issues. This is also one area that if done incorrectly can put you back a number of hours maybe a day if your local shop doesn't carry these**



Once the nutsert is installed, attach the spring perch to the OEM perch and nutsert using the supplied allen bolt and washer. Note that again I used a metric 4mm or 5mm for these bolts. They are in fact American Standard/Imperial far as I can tell, so be sure to use the correct allen key to avoid stripping the head. Do NOT over-tighten these bolts. You don't want to strip the nutsert and start all over again.



Take the new Koni dampers and either using the old dust covers or if pre-installed, place the flat washer under the metal sleeve (same as OEM).



Install the damper from underneath (it make take some force to get the damper to slide up into the hole and onto the mounting bracket). Leave the damper sitting partially in the mounting bracket on the wheel assembly. Inside the trunk, using a 17mm wrench and a 10mm socket, tighten down the flanged washer, lock washer and nut at the top of the damper (using the socket to hold the damper from spinning; Note, do not turn the flat metal head on the damper, this will adjust its ride setting). Tighten to OEM torque spec.


Install the 17mm bolt holding the damper to the lower control arm.


Jack the assembly up to about the height of the rear camber arm. Insert the new spring into place if not too loose. I retained the original lower boot to help keep the spring secure. Continue to raise the jack until the camber arm can sit inside the mounting bracket. Install the camber arm bolt.


Reattach the ABS sensor clip and 12mm or 14mm bolt for the brake line bracket. Push the brake line back into place in the black clip.

Reinstall wheels and lug nuts. BEFORE LOWERING CAR BACK DOWN: check to make sure the springs are seated properly on the perch and lower boot. if not lower the car until the spring just touches either one and carefully (I used my foot) push the spring into place. Continue to lower until springs are seated correctly and both wheels are on the ground.


To adjust the ride height, using a 1/8" allen key, loosen the allen bolt inside of the perch. grab the black/red housing and twist the gold perch in the desired direction to lower or raise the ride height of the car. be sure to either measure the height change of the perch or count the number of 360 degree rotations and match on the other side to keep a level ride height. Some calculation is necessary to avoid coil bind. I do not as of yet have the information to do these calculations, though Bludragon does mention where and how to find this info in his DIY thread above.
To adjust the ride comfort setting, you will need to adjust the flat tabs on the top of the four dampers. Instructions as well as the tool to do so should be included from Redshift. If I remember I will take pictures of these instructions and post them below as well.

BEFORE ENGAGING DAT VTACK BRAA!
Make sure you take a very short trip around the shop/block/neighbourhood and listen for any creaking, bangs, weird noises. The front and rears should "pop" once or twice as they settle with the full weight of the car. Again, make sure the spring is seated correctly before going anywhere.
Return to the area of work, jack the car back up and check all bolts and nuts have not loosened. Do not drive hard until some recent driving has been done (Check bolts again after some time) AS WELL AS an alignment. Unless you have an eagle eye, or happen to know how to do this yourself, getting an alignment done as soon as possible is a must. Just saving yourself money on worn tires and poor handling.




AND THATS IT! TAAADAAAA! Please let me know if I've missed anything or if some information requires correction. Sorry to those that like is short and sweet. I've written this for those that are as new to this as I was two days ago, and maybe would like a little more in depth explanation.

Comments, Concerns, Suggestions? Please post below or send me a friendly PM or profile post.


Last edited by The_Understated; 08-15-2013 at 03:07 AM.
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:13 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Nice DIY. By the way, is it normal for the springs to 'pop' even days or a week after installation? Specifically when turning.

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Old 08-15-2013, 03:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Great DIY. Added to the suspension section
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Wohoo! Thanks! Too soon to hope for a sticky? Hahaha
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Knollex View Post
Nice DIY. By the way, is it normal for the springs to 'pop' even days or a week after installation? Specifically when turning.
Couldn't edit so double post it is. Far as I know, no you shouldn't be popping afterwards. Check that the springs are seated properly, make sure you're not coil binding as well (get some calculations going), check the bolts and nuts of the dampers, get an alignment done and if all else fails, ask the same alignment guys what they might think. I've literally had this install on (complete and finished) for less that 6 hours. Lol. So I have no say in terms of experience, just in terms of what I think I know. Hope that helps a little?
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Old 08-15-2013, 04:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Great job on the DIY
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Old 08-15-2013, 04:41 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Wohoo! Thanks! Too soon to hope for a sticky? Hahaha
Stuck
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:35 AM   #8 (permalink)
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WOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! You rock!
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Nice right up buddy
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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hey is your aftermarket camber when you shorten to the end is it the same size as your stock?
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Old 12-03-2013, 05:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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OK I've got a question. I noticed that your rear coil-over sleeves go into the body rather than being tightened down onto the suspension...

I have my Ground-Control sleeves in the suspension and the springs up to the body, reverse of what you have. Did I do this incorrectly?
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Old 12-03-2013, 07:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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ground control instructions say put the sleeve on the lca but he used a riv-nut on the top to secure the sleeve to the top. this is a better way to do it to keep the spring from falling out when jacked up
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Old 12-03-2013, 10:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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ground control instructions say put the sleeve on the lca but he used a riv-nut on the top to secure the sleeve to the top. this is a better way to do it to keep the spring from falling out when jacked up
^^ This. My installation is what was recommended by other DIYs and Chris from RedShift. I didn't want to deal with worrying about the springs falling out so I went the extra mile for this. :P Plus I didn't think I had other options with my kit at the time. Lol


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Old 12-04-2013, 08:01 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Great write up. I also have this suspension with the asr camber plates and it is great, esp on the track. I'm curious to hear if you start to notice and noise develop from the camber plates. Please report back if you do.


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Old 04-30-2014, 10:18 AM   #15 (permalink)
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that is a serious work...wonderfull
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Awesome!

This is definitely a good write up. The only question I have, is on the part for the camber plates where you center them. Is there an actual recommended adjustment for a 2 inch drop?
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:39 PM   #17 (permalink)
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This is definitely a good write up. The only question I have, is on the part for the camber plates where you center them. Is there an actual recommended adjustment for a 2 inch drop?

Whenever you do an upgrade like this an alignment is going to be required. So every adjustment is going to be different for each car. Decide on the alignment specs you want to run for the drop you plan on having, and work with the guy doing your alignment to make it happen.


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Old 07-18-2015, 08:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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nice!
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Old 08-15-2015, 08:27 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Great DIY
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Old 08-15-2015, 08:27 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Great write up!

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