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DIY: radar detector hard wire

143K views 394 replies 180 participants last post by  EdwarDallas 
#1 · (Edited)
(wire colors that i list are for the 06 Si, coupe. Other cars wire colors may vary. "Kkim", says that the 07 sedans wire is purple)

Choose a place for your radar detector.... i chose up high so it would be difficult for thieves to see and it would not interfere with my windshield deflector. (yes i know that i lose rear, laser coverage but i like the position i chose and i dont really care about rear coverage for laser)


for a clean install, roll all your wires up so they will be the correct length.



Pop off plastic covers on the dome lights and unscrew the two nuts on the inside. Pull out the dome light and shove all your wires up there.


Tap in to the dark green wire 4 pins from the edge of this harness. This is the positive wire


Put the dome light back and make sure to run the ground wire through for the ground on the screw.


Here it is... Its all working....
 
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#127 ·
V1 Display not working

I purchased a V1 last week and hard wired it the same day. It worked great until today. When I plugged it in today, it powered up fine. It went through it's routine of tests (loud beep, softer beep, etc.), but then the display shut off. I disconnected it and tried again. Same thing. I started driving and left it in that state (a blank display) and behold, the detector is on, but the display was not working. When I passed by the super market, I got the usual multiple bogey alerts from the doors, but NO lights at all!?
I then hooked up the detector to the cigarette lighter adaptor and it worked perfect (display came on and stayed on). I ripped the hardwire out and started again thinking it was just a poor ground. I ruled this out because I was grounding it to bare sheet metal (I scraped the paint away to make sure it was a good connection). I then checked the 12V+ with a multi-meter and is was reading 12.22V, which is just fine. I tried two different phone connectors (both the straight and curled one that came with it) and the same blank display appeared. The only thing I can think of is the direct-wire power adaptor is bad. Anyone else seen this before? Anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks for the insight!
 
#131 ·
ldawson77777 said:
I purchased a V1 last week and hard wired it the same day. It worked great until today. When I plugged it in today, it powered up fine. It went through it's routine of tests (loud beep, softer beep, etc.), but then the display shut off. I disconnected it and tried again. Same thing. I started driving and left it in that state (a blank display) and behold, the detector is on, but the display was not working. When I passed by the super market, I got the usual multiple bogey alerts from the doors, but NO lights at all!?
I then hooked up the detector to the cigarette lighter adaptor and it worked perfect (display came on and stayed on). I ripped the hardwire out and started again thinking it was just a poor ground. I ruled this out because I was grounding it to bare sheet metal (I scraped the paint away to make sure it was a good connection). I then checked the 12V+ with a multi-meter and is was reading 12.22V, which is just fine. I tried two different phone connectors (both the straight and curled one that came with it) and the same blank display appeared. The only thing I can think of is the direct-wire power adaptor is bad. Anyone else seen this before? Anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks for the insight!
You are probably hook it up to the optional display or something related to that. Check the wiring, Also do you have a pictures of where did you place the Radar, I could not decided so I haven't hardwire it yet.
 
#132 ·
ldawson77777 said:
I purchased a V1 last week and hard wired it the same day. It worked great until today. When I plugged it in today, it powered up fine. It went through it's routine of tests (loud beep, softer beep, etc.), but then the display shut off. I disconnected it and tried again. Same thing. I started driving and left it in that state (a blank display) and behold, the detector is on, but the display was not working. When I passed by the super market, I got the usual multiple bogey alerts from the doors, but NO lights at all!?
I then hooked up the detector to the cigarette lighter adaptor and it worked perfect (display came on and stayed on). I ripped the hardwire out and started again thinking it was just a poor ground. I ruled this out because I was grounding it to bare sheet metal (I scraped the paint away to make sure it was a good connection). I then checked the 12V+ with a multi-meter and is was reading 12.22V, which is just fine. I tried two different phone connectors (both the straight and curled one that came with it) and the same blank display appeared. The only thing I can think of is the direct-wire power adaptor is bad. Anyone else seen this before? Anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks for the insight!
Silly question... do you have it on dark mode?
 
#133 ·
Version #2 RADAR Detector Hard Wire Install Method / Position

For my new '07 EX Coupe, I installed my RADAR detector in a different place. Far left, down on the dash. I used this position on my '06 EX Sedan for 20+ months with positive results. So lets not argue about positioning for now. This post is more to post about the wire run location and what fuse #8 can do for you - see below . ..

Next I hid the wires in the trim along the door jam down to the fuse box (see the pictures). The trim just folds away and you can tuck the wire behind it for a clean look.

Then I used the "un-used" fuse slot #8 to provide power. Yes, this slot will provide power - not sure why Honda is not using it - probably for another feature I don't have ;) (maybe the Auto dimming mirror?)

Turns out the #8 fuse slot is controlled / switched by the ignition switch, so my detector is only powered on when the key is in and the engine is on (just the way I want it) :biggrin: .

When you tap the #8 fuse, the lower part is the positive / power output, so your wire should tap the upper fuse slot (so your fuse, will "fuse" the detector/powered device). My detector uses little power, so I used a 7.5 Amp ATM fuse.

Also, found out the fuse slot #7 is always powered on so keep that in mind for other projects where you want constant un-switched power.

There is a Phillip's slotted bolt/screw (not pictured) that holds the fuse box to the metal frame (to the top right of the fuse box). This bolt is a perfect ground for projects like this. I used a "C" shaped quick connect for the ground wire from the detector here - works nice and is out of the way.

FYI,

Wally

:thumb:



 
#300 ·
For my new '07 EX Coupe, I installed my RADAR detector in a different place. Far left, down on the dash. I used this position on my '06 EX Sedan for 20+ months with positive results. So lets not argue about positioning for now. This post is more to post about the wire run location and what fuse #8 can do for you - see below . ..

Next I hid the wires in the trim along the door jam down to the fuse box (see the pictures). The trim just folds away and you can tuck the wire behind it for a clean look.

Then I used the "un-used" fuse slot #8 to provide power. Yes, this slot will provide power - not sure why Honda is not using it - probably for another feature I don't have ;) (maybe the Auto dimming mirror?)

Turns out the #8 fuse slot is controlled / switched by the ignition switch, so my detector is only powered on when the key is in and the engine is on (just the way I want it) :biggrin: .

When you tap the #8 fuse, the lower part is the positive / power output, so your wire should tap the upper fuse slot (so your fuse, will "fuse" the detector/powered device). My detector uses little power, so I used a 7.5 Amp ATM fuse.

Also, found out the fuse slot #7 is always powered on so keep that in mind for other projects where you want constant un-switched power.

There is a Phillip's slotted bolt/screw (not pictured) that holds the fuse box to the metal frame (to the top right of the fuse box). This bolt is a perfect ground for projects like this. I used a "C" shaped quick connect for the ground wire from the detector here - works nice and is out of the way.

FYI,

Wally

:thumb:



is slot 8 still "un-used" fuse for 2009 Si sedan? I try to use this method to hardwire my v1
 
#135 ·
Thank you, benmunger. I recently picked up an '07 Si Sedan. After driving trucks and sedans for years, it's been too easy to go too fast. Never owned a radar detector before so I picked up a Valentine 1. Had been thinking of ways to do a clean hardwired install and then came across your DIY. Excellent!

A couple of things to add -- the Valentine wouldn't fire up initially after getting the wiring all done. Double checked the fuse, the positive tap, ground, and everything was fine. The Direct-Wire Power Adapter has two jacks -- accessory and main unit. I had the power plugged into the 'Main Unit' jack. Seemed to make sense to me at the time. Out of sheer frustration, I unplugged the power line on the Direct-Wire Power Adapter from 'Main Unit' and plugged it into 'Accessory' and, voila, she came to life.

Also, more confirmation that the purple wire (4th one in on the harness) on Si Sedan is the right one to use. Powers up with ignition. Powers down when you open the door.

Thanks again. Here's some pics. Really pleased with the outcome.





 
#138 ·
Excellent thread. I just installed a hard wire for a Bel Pro RX65 this last weekend in my 2007 Civic coupe. Your information was dead on, right down to the color coding on the hot wire to tap. I used a black modem POTS wire, they tend to be thicker. Thanks again for the time spent writing the thread.
 
#140 ·
Just was pointed to this thread, I did not follow this DIY but I would like to show the placement of my device, In theory a RD would work better the higher it is right? When I see people mounting them in the lower corner it makes Me think They aren't getting the performance that could make a difference.. Someone please confirm..



 
#141 ·
your correct, even the escort manual (and everywhere ive read online) says to put it up high...ive heard that the higher you put it up, the less chance you have to detect lidar (at least lidar from the rear), but the better chances you have to detect radar from all direction. mounting it low on the dash isnt as effectivce because it cant see out the rear of the car and it has more obstructions looking out the front of the car (other cars)...look at it this way, if ur eyes were at the level of the radar detector and it was mounted low on the dash, you couldnt see as well in front, back or to the sides of you right? but if it was mounted high, then you have a better perspective of traffic and everything else around you. you just have to figure out what type of radar (or lidar) the police use around where you drive and go from there. hope this helps
 
#142 ·
Not sure about the other manufacturers, but the Valentine manual says, "Valentine One works best when mounted high in the windshield, and toward the center between the windshield pillars. Use your choice of windshield or visor mounts." I took this heart and that's why you see mine mounted above my rear view mirror in the picture above.
 
#145 ·
My first time uploading pics! Thought i would show some pics of the install. I put it to the side of the rearview so i dont have to look very far to see it, the mute button is easy to reach and so it has a clear 360 view





took em at night so i had to work around the flash in the rearview :thumb:
Thanks once again, great DIY
 
#155 ·
If you guys are having trouble with mounting the radar with suction cups, go to a tint shop and have them tint the windshield with a strip. Costs 10 bucks at every reliable tint shop from where I live. Its main purpose is to block the sun when you're driving, but it's also useful for that.
 
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