Guys please before you do an install of the EM1 CMC and follow the Hybrid Racing DIY guide take a look at this and make sure you properly adjust the rod. *** Use the OEM bracket/locknut instead of the EM1 bracket/locknut (The guide says to use the EM1 bracket). Everything else is good in the guide.
OEM ROD
OEM PEDAL BRACKET
OEM LOCK NUT
EM1 CMC
EM1 RETAINER
EM1 SNAP RING
There are 2 pictures I uploaded that show I have 2 - 3 threads showing on my EM1 bracket (which is aparantly how it is supposed to be) and also look how far pushed in the rod is when not even touching the clutch.
This is what will burn up your clutch. It is the equivalent of always riding around pressing in the clutch some. The bad thing is these pictures are after more adjustments were made and it still has the rod constantly being pushed in a little. :facepalm:
I hope this saves some people from burning out their clutch. I have learned the hard way...
Be careful not to go by threads, not all parts are created equally. I used the EM1 bracket for over a month and my clutch was fine, I switched to the stock bracket for more room to adjust to find the sweet spot. Maybe you were resting your foot on the clutch pedal as well?
Okay installed the oem bracket and the clutch is working no more slipping. I will take pictures and upload for future reference for people when I get a chance.
We are struggling with the same issue. Can anyone chime in something for us. So we had the pedal rod threaded inwards as far as we could. (So the lock nut was as back as far as possible and thread stuck out of the bracket)
Car drove great but we could smell burning clutch. We've attempted to adjust now a couple of times and still get the same results but the rod is so hard to move.
Wouldn't you want the rod as short as possible though (the way we had it) to give you the most clutch travel? If we spin the rod out of the bracket more won't that shorten the throw of the CMC and there for ride the clutch more than it already is?
I'm no noob and I've adjust the clutch on my RSX several times and even on some others cars but have never had this issue...
If you are not using the OEM Bracket here is what you need to do to swap out the EM1 to the OEM bracket
1) Remove the pin and bolt that holds the Bracket to the clutch pedal
2) Loosen the nuts that hold the CMC to the Car. Do not remove the nuts but unthread them as much as you can to where they still hold (12mm deep socket with extension is what I used)
3) now that the CMC is loosened push it back towards the engine bay carefully and angle the bracket off of the clutch pedal
4) Carefully unscrew the bracket off of the rod while angling it off the clutch pedal
5) Screw on the OEM bracket all the way down onto the lock nut while angling the rod.
6) Now that the bracket is on reattach bracket to the clutch pedal and put the bolt through and the pin in.
7) Re-tighten the CMC to the car.
8) If you notice the snap ring has popped off on one side due to angling the rod so much you will need to use a flat head to pop it back into place. It may help if you press on the clutch a little to relive pressure while you do this.
9) Test the car out. Everything should be good to go and enjoy properly shifting and not burning your clutch out!!
import dps in philadelphia put my hybrid cmc em1 on and its smooth as butter clutch engage and disengage properly just breaking in my clutch now i got a 100 mile on it now installation was done on 3/21/11. Good luck fellow 8th gen members with this oh and also check out import dps (215-227-6000) for hasport motor mounts also install on monday engine idles smooth lil or no vibration
question where is everyones pedal releaseing at mine is releasing at the middle is tihs right for this cmc my factory after the clutch install was at the bottom?
Is it ok to use the em1 retainer piece? My shop guy used that one because he said it would fit better. Also used the em1 snap ring because it looked identical to the oem one. Using oem rod, bracket and nut.
that is good to know. I have a quick question about the cmc's just by a visual means how would you tell the oem one against and em1 or omni? I bought my car about 5 months ago and the clutch engagement/disengagement compared to a new one, 12k mile 08 are completely different.. pressure and engagement point any help would be greatly appreciated.
]PLEASE....everyone.... there is mass amounts of mis information in this thread. and it has cost me alot of time, money and headache because it seems so trivial at first but then i noticed what really was making my clutch slip after replacing it and it still slipped.
today my brand new clutch 150 miles was slipping. i said no way. i decided to bleed the clutch again. this time i removed the slave from the transmission to bleed it. when i was done with the pedal out, the rod was so long i was unable to bolt it back down. keep in mind that this was the same way i bled the clutch last time. so that means with my pedal out the clutch was partially engaged/deisengaged. which lead me to a youtube video to look for bleeding techniques and the video shown saved me alot of time and headache in figuring out what was really going on. SO.... this means i have been driving around with my brand new clutch partially disengaged for 150 miles. this is what killed my clutch in the first place.
The way the master cylinder pull fluid from the reservoir and forces it to the slave is screwed up when the shorter (oem) rod is used. I was only able to figure this out after reverse bleeding the line like shown in the video. that is removing the slave using a jar and hose and pump fluid from the slave untill bubble stop coming up in the reservoir. When i tried to do this i was not able to send fluid back from the slave to the master. So i went and grabbed the oem master and blew with my mouth.......into the fluid input and it was effortless. Then i removed the em1 and removed the line drained the fluid and blew. my cheeks almost exploded. I cleaned it up went inside and took it apart. blew effortless. so i figured something wasnt right in the piston. everything looked good.when i went to put it back together, i noticed that the rod and piston had to be pushed in about 5mm for the snap ring to seat. but with the piston in and not pushed the extra 5mm or so i blew effortless. i swapped to the em1 rod and blew effortless with rod in and snap ring seated. so my salve was able to relieve itself completely because the master was always pushing on it blocking any fluid from ever coming back. im surprised it was working as good as it did.
moral of this story is. Hybrid racing specifically said the order of parts to be used was absolutely important for the function. and they knew what the hell they were talking about. my advice to anyone what switched to the short rod is to switch back.the bracket doesnt really matter but the rad can cost you a clutch like it did me. and possibly another one as i dont know how this abuse would affect a brand new clutch that has been broken in yet.
PLEASE....everyone.... there is mass amounts of mis information in this thread. and it has cost me alot of time, money and headache because it seems so trivial at first but then i noticed what really was making my clutch slip after replacing it and it still slipped.
today my brand new clutch 150 miles was slipping. i said no way. i decided to bleed the clutch again. this time i removed the slave from the transmission to bleed it. when i was done with the pedal out, the rod was so long i was unable to bolt it back down. SO.... this means i have been driving around on my brand new clutch partially disengaged for 150 miles. this same this is what killed my original clutch. which lead me to a youtube video to look for bleeding techniques and the video shown saved me alot of time and headache in figuring out what was really going on. SO.... this means i have been driving around with my brand new clutch partially disengaged for 150 miles. this is what killed my clutch in the first place.
The way the master cylinder pull fluid from the reservoir and forces it to the slave is screwed up when the shorter (oem) rod is used. I was only able to figure this out after reverse bleeding the line like shown in the video. that is removing the slave using a jar and hose and pump fluid from the slave untill bubble stop coming up in the reservoir. When i tried to do this i was not able to send fluid back from the slave to the master. So i went and grabbed the oem master and blew with my mouth.......into the fluid input and it was effortless. Then i removed the em1 and removed the line drained the fluid and blew. my cheeks almost exploded. I cleaned it up went inside and took it apart. blew effortless. so i figured something wasnt right in the piston. everything looked good.when i went to put it back together, i noticed that the rod and piston had to be pushed in about 3mm for the snap ring to seat. but with the piston in and not pushed the extra 3mm or so i blew effortless. i swapped to the em1 rod and blew effortless with rod in and snap ring seated. so my salve was able to relieve itself completely because the master was always pushing on it blocking any fluid from ever coming back. im surprised it was working as good as it did.
moral of this story is. Hybrid racing specifically said the order of parts to be used was absolutely important for the function. and they knew what the hell they were talking about. my advice to anyone what switched to the short rod is to switch back.the bracket doesnt really matter but the rad can cost you a clutch like it did me. and possibly another one as i dont know how this abuse would affect a brand new clutch that has been broken in yet.
yes my em1 cmc is all em1 except for the bracket.
yup. after i couldnt get the slave back on i disconnected the pedal completely to make sure there was no pressure on the master. i still wasnt able to compress slave's piston.
if anyone else has problem with slipping remove you slave and try to put it back on. it would be interesting to see if my there is just a problem with my rod or something. but from my trouble shooting and results i can say that the oem rod caused MY problem. i will try to see if i can get it threaded further down the rod to have the adjustment room like the oem rod.
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