Wheel Fitment Recipe - wheel offsets that work

[jrotax101]

Jeshua's are 18x8 + 38

[hondaman92eg6]

Review of Skunk2 Pro-S on my R18

...this guy is pretty slammed on skunk2's

[dt07Si]

Originally Posted by hondaman92eg6

Review of Skunk2 Pro-S on my R18

...this guy is pretty slammed on skunk2's

I've heard good and bad things about them...Jeshua doesn't seem to be overly happy with them compared to his Tein Basic's. I am jsut as low on my SS's, he just looks lower because of the sunken Si wheels. Put some lower offset/wider wheels on it and it won't look so low.

[JeShUa]

He is lower. My fronts are a good 1/2" lower... rear needs to go down though!!!! I might go load my trunk with useless crap LOLLLLLLLL.
Real though I MIGHT be able to get a sub... only if its free.99 though.

[hondaman92eg6]

well most likely ill be ridin on the stock rims throughout the winter..so i should be able to achieve the look im after with the pro s's

[Shitegra]

For a coupe, would 17x9 wheels perform better or worse than say a 17x8 wheel? I just saw mugen_kids car and wondered how it would perform on a track with those wheels.

[meeks]

yeah i have the same question as above.. would 17x9 with pulled fenders be ok for a bit of road racing (track) like mugen_kid's set-up?

[dt07Si]

Ideally for a track setup you would run a wider wheel up front. A wider wheel is always nice but you will only benefit from it if you are able to accomodate the wider tire. Ie. your probably better off running a 8" wheel with a 235, than a 9" wheel with a 215 (this is just a hypothetical, you shouldn't have to run a 215 on a 9)

9's can and have obviously worked but making them work is a matter of how low you are / want to be, running a decent amount of negative camber, tire sizing, inner clearance and the right offsets.

Personally I think 9's are only practical for track use, otherwise they are needed IMO.

[maiku]

Debating spacers... Unfortunately, my offset is just too big. I got 18x7.5 w/ 225/40 tires. 48mm offset.
It sits WAY in there... how much of a spacer would I need to flush it out? I'll be rolling the fenders for this. So I want absolute flushness. I'm dropped pretty low on Tein SS coilovers.
And for future reference, what kind of offset would I want on a similar setup wheel/tire wise for a flush look? 35mm?
Thank you.

[ryryninja]

7.5 wide You can get down to low 30s if you want I'm running 35mm I'm sure I could a few more mms outward

[dt07Si]

Originally Posted by maiku

Debating spacers... Unfortunately, my offset is just too big. I got 18x7.5 w/ 225/40 tires. 48mm offset.
It sits WAY in there... how much of a spacer would I need to flush it out? I'll be rolling the fenders for this. So I want absolute flushness. I'm dropped pretty low on Tein SS coilovers.
And for future reference, what kind of offset would I want on a similar setup wheel/tire wise for a flush look? 35mm?
Thank you.

Look at my pics for reference. I am as low as I can go on my Tein SS's and I am running 17 x 8 +32's. If your gonna run spacers I would suggest atleast running 10mm spacers with extended studs, if not something even thicker. On another note, I'm not sure if you have camber bolts/arms but if you don't you should consider getting them to dial in your camber with the wheels pushed out further.

With 7.5's I'd probably go as low at +25 depending on the camber and tire sizing. (That's if you're prepared to go aggressive)

[maiku]

Yeah unfortunately for that wheel they only offer 7.5". I wish I did more research before I bought the wheels. I could definitely use a wider wheel since I autox
Umm, so yeah, I have 225/40/18 tires and I have all the camber stuff too. I don't want ridiculous camber though, since I don't want to hurt my traction and tire wear, but I am going to roll the fenders.
So if you say a 25-30mm offset would be fine, since I have a 48mm offset, I'd be okay with 20mm spacer? That would make it approximately flush? Maybe 20mm front, 15mm rear would be best?? Anything more than that would require a neg camber?

I'm trying to figure out how it works for wider tires... Say since I have 18x7.5 48mm offset... someone else has 18x8 ... does that mean, since it's .5" diff, that'd put .25" on each side from the center of the wheel meaning the offset would have to be 54mm to fit exactly the same? (I'd add 6.35mm to the offset since .25x25.4=6.35mm) I dunno if I get it. lol.
Basically, a 18x8 48mm offset wheel would stick out more than the 7.5", right? By exactly how much?
I'm trying to learn the science of the whole thing. x_x; I tried the wheel/tire calculator thing but I'm still not clear on it.

[maiku]

Guess I'll just have to measure once I get my fenders rolled. I have 1" to the very edge of the fender in the rear, but that's including the lip for the edge of the fender that needs to be rolled. I gotta see how much that can be rolled down to. Otherwise I have less than .5" if I leave it as is.

[dt07Si]

Originally Posted by maiku

Yeah unfortunately for that wheel they only offer 7.5". I wish I did more research before I bought the wheels. I could definitely use a wider wheel since I autox
Umm, so yeah, I have 225/40/18 tires and I have all the camber stuff too. I don't want ridiculous camber though, since I don't want to hurt my traction and tire wear, but I am going to roll the fenders.
So if you say a 25-30mm offset would be fine, since I have a 48mm offset, I'd be okay with 20mm spacer? That would make it approximately flush? Maybe 20mm front, 15mm rear would be best?? Anything more than that would require a neg camber?

I'm trying to figure out how it works for wider tires... Say since I have 18x7.5 48mm offset... someone else has 18x8 ... does that mean, since it's .5" diff, that'd put .25" on each side from the center of the wheel meaning the offset would have to be 54mm to fit exactly the same? (I'd add 6.35mm to the offset since .25x25.4=6.35mm) I dunno if I get it. lol.
Basically, a 18x8 48mm offset wheel would stick out more than the 7.5", right? By exactly how much?
I'm trying to learn the science of the whole thing. x_x; I tried the wheel/tire calculator thing but I'm still not clear on it.

Alright...well first of all I'm not sure what your alignment specs are right now but your not going to hurt your traction with a little bit of negative camber, you will wear the inner portion of the tires a little quicker but if you have the toe zero'd out its really not that bad. If anything the car with the stock alignment under steers and the car benefits (handling wise) from some added camber in the front and back (more up front).

I think you can pull off a 25-30 mm offset however you have to be prepared to possibly rub a little, and as mentioned already, run a little more negative camber. To answer your question your wheels with a 20mm spacer would be pretty damn flush (but not as flush as me ). If you want to stay on the safe side and not have the wheels sit exactly flush but have them look a little more aggressive then they currently do you could run 10mm spacers and you probably wouldn't have any rubbing issues.

As far as offsets and the differences between sizes, you hit the nail right on the head

Basic Examples: Two wheels same width : lower offset is farther out.
Two wheels different widths but have the same offset, the wider of the two will stick out farther.

When your comparing two wheels in different widths and offsets, it just helps to know how to convert millimeters and inches. But it looks liek you have the general concept of splitting the width and so on...good job

Originally Posted by maiku

Guess I'll just have to measure once I get my fenders rolled. I have 1" to the very edge of the fender in the rear, but that's including the lip for the edge of the fender that needs to be rolled. I gotta see how much that can be rolled down to. Otherwise I have less than .5" if I leave it as is.

I imagine its going to be somewhere in between. ~ .75" depending on how much you roll them. Too be honest in the front there is nothing to roll, you either leave your fender liners in like I did and burn them away where they rub to the point where you don't rub anymore, like I did . Or you can cut them out ahead of time where there going to rub, or you can take them out all together, which I don't recommend.

As far as the back, I'll be the first to admit I rub a little on harsh bumps or when I have 3-4 people in my car (which is hardly ever). I didn't roll my fenders because the rubbing is minor enough that I don't need to IMO, and I didn't want to risk cracking my paint. But if you know what your doing and your patient it can be done right with a baseball bat without cracking your paint (I didn't believe it until I did a friends car) or you can do it with a rolling machine. Either way I recommend the use of a heat gun to soften the paint a little.

Hope all that helps.

-Dave

[2likru]

^but what if you don't want to role and your running 18/8 +38 wheels and 225/40 tires?

[dt07Si]

Originally Posted by 2likru

^but what if you don't want to role and your running 18/8 +38 wheels and 225/40 tires?

what are you dropped on? And my first thought is you could run more negative camber and not rub or atleast hardly ever rub

[2likru]

I made a tread for some advice and I was asked the same thing. The problem is I am going to be on Tein Flex and I don't know how the car is going to sit exactly yet. I was going to adjust the height based on what needed to be done for looks, ride, and clearance. Like I said in the thread this is my first venture outside of stock offset and tire width.

[dt07Si]

Originally Posted by 2likru

I made a tread for some advice and I was asked the same thing. The problem is I am going to be on Tein Flex and I don't know how the car is going to sit exactly yet. I was going to adjust the height based on what needed to be done for looks, ride, and clearance. Like I said in the thread this is my first venture outside of stock offset and tire width.

Thats a good wheel and tire spec to go with, and I think like you said you'll have a better idea of things when the time comes and you lower your car. Jeshua is lowered on the same exact wheel and tire specs and he's doing alright, but rubs a little, I'm afraid thats the nature of wider, lower offset wheels on a lowered car.

I would recommend picking up front camber bolts and rear camber arms to dial in your camber for handling and fitment purposes with the new drop and wheels/tires.

[2likru]

Excellent! That is what I needed to read for reassurance. I have seen pics of Jeshua's car and it looks like he is tucked in the front and I will not be that low. So I should have a lower chance of rubbing and a lil negative chamber should clear up what I do get(I'm guessing).

The flex comes with upper mounts to adjust chamber are the bolts still necessary? They didn't do much for my RSX Type S but that could have just been my lack of knowledge. I'm going with T1r rear upper arms out back.

[dt07Si]

Originally Posted by 2likru

Excellent! That is what I needed to read for reassurance. I have seen pics of Jeshua's car and it looks like he is tucked in the front and I will not be that low. So I should have a lower chance of rubbing and a lil negative chamber should clear up what I do get(I'm guessing).

The flex comes with upper mounts to adjust chamber are the bolts still necessary? They didn't do much for my RSX Type S but that could have just been my lack of knowledge. I'm going with T1r rear upper arms out back.

yeah Jeshua is low so if your not going that low you should have less rubbing issues, and the more negative camber you run the better but I say stick between -2.0 to -3.0 up front and around -2 to -2.5 out back if possible. More up front will help your handling.

You might not need bolts up front since you are getting the flex's, but to be honest I'm not aware of their range of adjust ability. As far as the backs go, I love t1R products but I would recommend the new SPC rear arms (new version not old ones) over my Skunk 2's or t1R's because they can be adjusted without taking the rear wheels off (they are the first to do this)