The Comprehensive GReddy/TSI Turbo Upgrade Thread, Ask Your Mama!

[soxfan143]

My manifold did not crack from no flex joint or from not having motor mounts. It was 100% from the heat cycles. I live in an area where the climate shifts drastically by the seasons and the heat cycles from extremely hot to cold from boosting in the winter months caused the manifold to cool faster in some spots more than others causing some parts of the mani to cool faster than others and the metal couldn't keep up causing it to crack. I had Boomba torque mounts and a flex joint on my custom 3" DP and it still cracked. Cast iron will expand and retract much more than SS will and will be much more prone to heat cycle damage if it doesn't cool evenly. I was also pushing the setup to it's limits with high boost so I was creating much more heat than most causing the mani to get even hotter. If you guys are serious about keeping the cast manifolds I HIGHLY recommend some HPC coating to keep the heat more evenly distributed in the casting to promote even cooling which will prevent cracking more than not having it.

[Supa Ninja]

Originally Posted by DaWhitesFG2

Nick, do you ever sleep there bud? I like the way u put everything needed to build a TRUE budget friendly/reliable turbo kit. I know everyone's not gonna do the setup but if at least 1 person does it, this thread is all worth it. Bump for the noobs/guys that are on a budget.

i have bad insomnia. I'm just showing peeps that it can be done on the cheap, so far minus the exhaust its at 4500 for everything.

[Supa Ninja]

Originally Posted by soxfan143

My manifold did not crack from no flex joint or from not having motor mounts. It was 100% from the heat cycles. I live in an area where the climate shifts drastically by the seasons and the heat cycles from extremely hot to cold from boosting in the winter months caused the manifold to cool faster in some spots more than others causing some parts of the mani to cool faster than others and the metal couldn't keep up causing it to crack. I had Boomba torque mounts and a flex joint on my custom 3" DP and it still cracked. Cast iron will expand and retract much more than SS will and will be much more prone to heat cycle damage if it doesn't cool evenly. I was also pushing the setup to it's limits with high boost so I was creating much more heat than most causing the mani to get even hotter. If you guys are serious about keeping the cast manifolds I HIGHLY recommend some HPC coating to keep the heat more evenly distributed in the casting to promote even cooling which will prevent cracking more than not having it.

I need to get mine coated, it will help keep the engine bay cooler too. jeez mike your replying to a post i made 7 weeks ago, lolololol.

[DaWhitesFG2]

and for the TSI guys, get the bolts from the turbo/mani heat treated (TSI's bolts were high grade but not turbo quaified), or it will cost you. I'm not sure about the GReddy guys, but since it happened to me, it can happen to you. Major exhaust leak.

[soxfan143]

Originally Posted by Supa Ninja

I need to get mine coated, it will help keep the engine bay cooler too. jeez mike your replying to a post i made 7 weeks ago, lolololol.

hahahaha. I missed this thread. But better late than never. No?

[Supa Ninja]

yup it is

[civicgotspeed]

i hate reading this thread. its so full of good info but it makes me wanna just settle for this upgrade instead of spending the 4k+ going full race stuff...BLAH!!! Im worried about my motors health going with a big turbo on this crappy greddy manifold though...too much heat!!!

[Supa Ninja]

i would suggest ethanol but i think its still super sparse up in the new england area. about 200F cooler egt's.

[civicgotspeed]

im prob just gonna suck it up and do the full race upgrades...you cant deny the sound of an external gate!!!

[Supa Ninja]

i heart open dump too

[Supa Ninja]

Originally Posted by civicgotspeed

i hate reading this thread. its so full of good info but it makes me wanna just settle for this upgrade instead of spending the 8k+ going full race stuff...BLAH!!! Im worried about my motors health going with a big turbo on this crappy greddy manifold though...too much heat!!!

There I fixed it for you

[civicgotspeed]

Originally Posted by Supa Ninja

There I fixed it for you

lol not when i was talking about upgrading my greddy kit...3700 bucks in parts. Only thing i would not have is the intercooler...which im only looking to make 400whp anyway so the greddy IC is perfectly capable

[Supa Ninja]

true that

[Supa Ninja]

bump for the newbs

[808TWFG1]

Which bolts do you need heat treated? and where's the best place to get heat treated bolts?

[Supa Ninja]

I'm personnally running the bolts that came with my kit, but its the bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold. ATP carries some heat treated grade 8 bolts. I'm pretty sure they are 8mm x 1.50 Dwight might remember off hand.

[Supa Ninja]

bump! i added a few more useful tidbits on the first post.

[APupNamedSmokey]

Originally Posted by Supa Ninja

to help you out, the restrictor goes inbetween the oil line and the turbo, normally. here is a pic of one. Oil Inlet Restrictor - .065" hole size 1/8" NPT (for Journal bearing and larger GT BB) : atpturbo.com

Would the same restrictor apply if your were using the new Precision ceramic dual ball bearing turbos? Or would you use .035 like the dual garrets?
Just want to make sure I get the right one .

[Supa Ninja]

i would go with the .035 for ball bearings and .065 for journal bearings. getmoneyadams precision bb turbo smoked right off the bat then he put a .035 in it and got rid of the smoking.

we run stupid high oil pressure in these motors so the restrictors are very important.

[Supa Ninja]

bump, I would hate to see you guys get your butts handed to you by a FR R18. I will laugh at you if that happens, lol.