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Old 02-28-2008, 09:05 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Damn dude, I was just talking to Jeremy and he told me about this. That seriously sucks man.. What did the dealership say?
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Old 02-29-2008, 08:28 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Hey Tukai i cant believe Omar is gone man he wasnt supposed to die i was hoping maybe it was his twin brother or something o and my clutch is perfect i got 23k on it
I felt like an emo with a razor blade in the rain with tight black clothes on when Omar died.
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Old 02-29-2008, 10:19 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Vandergriff told me the same thing the dealership i got it used from did, it's the friction plate, so they're gonna replace the whole clutch and possibly the flywheel, cuz they dont' resurface Si flywheels, it's gonna cost me probably around 1500 out of pocket, which now looking at it, i could have had the car towed to a friend's shop, bought the clutch online, and only ended up paying less than a grand for it...well crap...
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Old 02-29-2008, 04:14 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Powertrain Warranty!!!
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:52 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by e60.deluxe View Post
drving like a grandma != being good to your clutch.

you can drive it liike a maniac and do pretty much no damage to your clutch. likewise, you can let your clutch slip all the time in efforts to shift smoother and wear it down fast.
This comment got me thinking, what is the best way to preserve your clutch? It's the first manual car we've had in our family, so I've never dealt with clutch replacements.. etc. And no one can really tell me their experiences

I've always been under the impression that a smoother ride is better for your drivetrain in general, but you're also stating that it destroys a clutch faster? What's the best compromise for this? I coun'dt find any good threads on here about it
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:53 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Powertrain Warranty!!!
powertrain doesn't apply to wear-tear parts like clutch, hell I'm not sure what it really applies to...
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:11 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bangmonsta View Post
This comment got me thinking, what is the best way to preserve your clutch? It's the first manual car we've had in our family, so I've never dealt with clutch replacements.. etc. And no one can really tell me their experiences

I've always been under the impression that a smoother ride is better for your drivetrain in general, but you're also stating that it destroys a clutch faster? What's the best compromise for this? I coun'dt find any good threads on here about it
the biggest problem that new stick drivers make is allowing the clutch to slip excessively when down shifting. if you straight downshift from low RPM to high RPM your going to send a shock through your transmission, not good in the long run. the natural way to avoid this is slowly let out the clutch, and let it slowly grab the flywheel and match speeds.

however this means that the clutch and the flywheel are spinning at different speeds = slippage = more wear. the proper way is to either:
-not skip gears so that the revs dont build so much
-rev match.
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:13 PM   #28 (permalink)
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powertrain doesn't apply to wear-tear parts like clutch, hell I'm not sure what it really applies to...
well everything in the drivetrain thats not a wear item. like engine, transmission, driveshafts, differential...
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:22 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by e60.deluxe View Post
the biggest problem that new stick drivers make is allowing the clutch to slip excessively when down shifting. if you straight downshift from low RPM to high RPM your going to send a shock through your transmission, not good in the long run. the natural way to avoid this is slowly let out the clutch, and let it slowly grab the flywheel and match speeds.

however this means that the clutch and the flywheel are spinning at different speeds = slippage = more wear. the proper way is to either:
-not skip gears so that the revs dont build so much
-rev match.
Quick response, thanks! I do rev match/heel-toe when downshifting, but when upshifting I was wondering if I should slowly let the clutch out for a smooth ride or just casually let it out. I normally dont just drop the clutch and make the car lurch, but I do it fast enough to wear I do feel a little tug.

When you rev match while downshifting, you are causing the flywheel to spin faster in order to match the speed of the clutch, correct?

Also, let's say I redline 2nd gear to speed up, but then I dont need to accelerate any more. I normally run my car thru 3rd, 4th, then 5th gear, is that better than just skipping them and going straight to 5th? I would of course, hold the clutch in a bit longer to make sure the rev go down to around 3k before letting it go.
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:56 PM   #30 (permalink)
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when upshifting, its easier because the engine has to slow in speed instead of raise. yes the engine still has momentum, but it wants to rev down. the synchros and the springs in the clutch plate will absorb almost all of the shock.

rev matching isn't completely necessarily for upshift except that it allows you to get back on the gas earlier. however, in normal cars with our flywheels and in our cars with our rev hang, your better off just getting into the next gear without waiting for revs to fall.

you may have noticed that particularly in the 1->2 shift, synchro crunch, happens if you shift too quickly.

you dont need to be kicking the clutch, but go on and off at a normal rate for upshifts and downshifts and you should be fine.

also avoid riding the clutch in parking lot speeds, alot of MT beginners do that.
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Old 03-03-2008, 06:52 AM   #31 (permalink)
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IMO just go thru all gears when going up and the only time you need to skip gears is down shifting from 6th to 4th to accelerate when you need to get on someones a$$. ps i rev match when i do this, just pay attention to your speed and tach and what gear your in it usally differs about 1k, for example 3rd is always 30mph at 3000rpm then 4th is 40mph at 3000rpms and 5th is about 50mph @ 3000rpms, I hope this makes some sense to you newbies at MT!
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Old 03-03-2008, 10:39 AM   #32 (permalink)
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i want my damn fiji back.....if it helps, i'm gona be doing pretty much a checklist of basic mods this weekend, new badges, painting the calipers, and a couple other small things....i miss my FG
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Old 03-03-2008, 10:51 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Does any1 skip gears? Like 1 to 3 then 3 to 5? If you take it to 3k or 4 rpm in 1st i see it useless to put it in 2nd to just change it right away to 3rd. Is this bad?

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Old 03-03-2008, 02:39 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by e60.deluxe View Post
when upshifting, its easier because the engine has to slow in speed instead of raise. yes the engine still has momentum, but it wants to rev down. the synchros and the springs in the clutch plate will absorb almost all of the shock.

rev matching isn't completely necessarily for upshift except that it allows you to get back on the gas earlier. however, in normal cars with our flywheels and in our cars with our rev hang, your better off just getting into the next gear without waiting for revs to fall.

you may have noticed that particularly in the 1->2 shift, synchro crunch, happens if you shift too quickly.

you dont need to be kicking the clutch, but go on and off at a normal rate for upshifts and downshifts and you should be fine.

also avoid riding the clutch in parking lot speeds, alot of MT beginners do that.
Yeah why is 1st->2nd such a bitch? I've gotten over 3rd gear problems by shifting thru neutral more carefully but 2nd gear grinding drives me crazy sometimes, espiecially when I redline 1st (which I rarely do cuz I'll probably grind 2nd). Such a turn off to not be able to redline 1st and quickly run to 2nd. And there's a certain speed I usualy shift at, but if I dont remember to go slowly for 1st->2nd I always get a nasty grind

Any tricks to fix this? Is it normal for all cars or is it an inherent problem in our 8th gens only?
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Old 03-03-2008, 04:29 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Redline performance or Complete in Arlington can do your clutch for you for about 500$..including clutch.
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:06 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Does any1 skip gears? Like 1 to 3 then 3 to 5? If you take it to 3k or 4 rpm in 1st i see it useless to put it in 2nd to just change it right away to 3rd. Is this bad?
yup i skip gears all the time. thats why i think that DCTs are useless away from the track.
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:39 PM   #37 (permalink)
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damnit....i live IN arlington.....and i'm paying 1400 at freakin Vandergriff

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Redline performance or Complete in Arlington can do your clutch for you for about 500$..including clutch.
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Old 03-04-2008, 06:21 PM   #38 (permalink)
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got my baby back today, spoiled her a bit with JDM badges, the steeringwheel overlay, and the key covers, next will be painting the calipers and fogs....wooooooot, i'll post pics later tonight
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