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DIY: Changing rear brake pads

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316K views 251 replies 127 participants last post by  Swank  
#1 · (Edited)
Ok, so I got some rear brake pads as a gift recently (Thanks Ryan, you're the man!!!) and decided to do a quick DIY since I know some people have asked for it. I'm putting it in suspension since there isn't a brake DIY section.

Here are all of the tools you will need:
1. A ratchet
2. A 12mm socket(for the caliper bolts) and a 14mm socket (to drive the brake caliper compressor)
3. A rear brake caliper compressor (if you don't have on you should be able to rent one at your local auto parts store)
4. A 17mm combo wrench
Image


The process is fairly simple, so I didn't take pictures of every little step. Here goes...

1. Get you car up on jack stands or if you are lucky enough to work in a shop, get it up on a lift. If you are putting the car on jack stands leave it in gear and chock the front wheels so it doesn't roll away.
Image


2. Remove both rear wheels

3. To remove the caliper hold the nut (#1 in the pic) with your 17mm wrench and loosen the bolt (#2 in the pic) with your 12mm socket. You will need to remove the top bolt as well as the bottom bolt.
Image


4. This is what it should look like when you have the caliper off. Now remove the old brake pads, making sure to note which pad came off which side of the rotor.
Image


5. Use your brake caliper compressor to push the brake piston back into the caliper. You should open the bleed screw while forcing th piston back, to prevent brake fluid from going backwards through the ABS module. It can damage it. I'm sure alot of people will say tis fine not to open the bleeder, but I always do just to be safe. It should be fairly easy and not require much effort.
Image


6. Install your new brake pads and re-install the caliper.

7. Repeat on other side.

7.5 If you opened the bleeder screws while pushing the piston back, make sure to bleed your brakes.

8. Re-install wheels and torque to proper factory spec.

A few tips
Before you drive off, make sure to pump the brakes a few times to bring the piston back to the new pads.

Make sure to burnish the pads as per the manufacture instructions. Here what Hawk says to do
Image


Thats it. I hope this helps some of you guys, and feel free to add anything that you feel I might have missed. :thumb:
 
#5 ·
07Nighthawkbp said:
Great job excellent pics and instructions
Click to expand...
Thanks guys! :thumb:
ryryninja said:
:popcorn: can you tell the difference????
Click to expand...
yeah, but I think only b/c I still have stock front pads. When I get my fronts (Hawk HPS) I'll do a full review. Hopefully with the more aggressive HP Plus in the back with HPS in the front it will even out the brake bias.
 
#8 ·
during the cooldown period for burnishing the pads.. does that mean cool them down as you are driving, so the air flow cools them??

or does it mean to come to a stop and allow them to rest and cool down??

if its the latter, dont you run the risk of warping your rotors, since you just heated them up from the hard braking from 45 to 40mph???
 
#13 ·
its basically the same thing just remove the bracket that the caliper is bolted 2, and changing the roter is basically the same thing as pulling off your wheel and putting it back on. just make sure u spray the new roteres with brake clean really good 2 get all the oil that is used in the manufacturing and shiping/storage process.
 
D
#20 ·
Since this is for the rear disc brakes, the piston should be turned, not pushed back into the caliper. Pushing is fine for the front, but the rear shares braking components with the e-brakes, so pushing may cause damage to the e-brakes.

The grooves (pointed out in red) in the piston are there so that you can get a socket (i'm not sure the right term for it) to turn the piston back into the caliper.

Image
 
#24 ·
I have the stock brake lines on, and when I pull the caliper there is too much tension in the brake line and the handbrake cable (no the handbrake is not engaged). Did you do anything to loosen the cable? I noticed you had SS lines, so maybe you have more slack than with the stock rubber hose
 
#26 ·
I was thinking about doing this, but I have no idea where to get the brake compressor from. Is there something else I can use, or do I really need the compressor to do the job. I know that's probably a dumb question but I'm looking to do stuff for myself so I can know what the hell is going on instead of trusting a mechanic all the time.
 
R
#32 ·
okay

heres a picture of the civic si's front caliper

Image


see the brass screw with the black rubber cap around it? thats the bleeder screw

now on to bleeding procedures itself:
the civic si bleeding procedure is Front Left caliper first then FR and then to the RR and then LR

okay to bleed the car itself, theres many videos online to demonstrate this tedious task
How to Use a Bleeder Wrench on Brakes | ExpertVillage Videos
How to Tighten a Brake Bleed | ExpertVillage Videos
How to Fill & Test Car Brake Fluid | ExpertVillage Videos

some quick notes there: try not to spill the brake fluid; top off brake fluid to the MAX level before moving to another caliper, dont let the master cylinder get empty!; use a different color brake fluid if you can to see when the oil fluid has been extracted; get a friend to help you and get him or her to sit in the car to push the brake pedal, not sitting outside because you might over reach the brake pedal; and of course use jack stands

i will probably do a DIY on it when I get my stimulus check and get better brakes
 
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