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DIY Front Brake Pads

295K views 319 replies 186 participants last post by  EdNaviEx  
#1 ·
Another DIY for brakes

Front Brake Pad Replacement

Special Tools Required
Brake caliper piston compressor 07AAE-SEPA101

CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health.


-Avoid breathing dust particles.
-Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner.

Replacement

1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Remove the flange bolt (A) while holding the caliper pin (B) with a wrench. Be careful not to damage the pin boot, and pivot the caliper (C) up out of the way. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.
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4. Remove the pad shims (A) and brake pads (B).
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5. Remove the pad retainers (A).
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6. Clean the caliper bracket (B) thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks.
7. Check the brake disc for damage and cracks.
8. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the retainers on their mating surfaces (indicated by the arrows) against the caliper bracket.
9. Install the pad retainers. Wipe excess assembly paste off the retainers. Keep any assembly paste off the discs and pads.
10. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the pad side of the shims (A), the back of the brake pads (B) and the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads. Contaminated brake discs or brake pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease and assembly paste off the brake discs and brake pads.
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11. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the brake pad with the wear indicator (C) on the upper inside. If you are reusing the brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency.
12. Mount the brake caliper piston compressor (A) on the caliper body (B).
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13. Press in the piston with the brake caliper piston compressor so the caliper will fit over the brake pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting the caliper down. NOTE: Be careful when pressing in the piston, the brake fluid might overflow from the master cylinder's reservoir.
14. Remove the brake caliper piston compressor.
15. Pivot the caliper down into position. Install the flange bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified torque while holding the caliper pin (B), with a wrench. Be careful not to damage the pin boot.
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16. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work. NOTE: Engagement may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke.
17. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then check for leaks.
 
#3 ·
back pads are a lot different!!! you can use a c-clamp for the front no problem. the back requires you to twist the piston in with a tool you can pick up at any local auto store, it will look like a giant box with different ends, clockwise to twist the piston in and the pads will fit in the grove. you will also have to take off the e-brake lines on each side and remove the brake line bracket to make it work.
 
#13 ·
i just used this DIY to change my pads, saved me a bunch of cash :). i used a c-clamp since autozone didnt have the piston compressor to rent out. i bought some duralast gold pads since i dont need racing pads because i dont race... they came with shims already so the old ones got thrown out. overall, it took me bout 25 minutes to do everything and get my car back on the ground. thanks for the DIY.
 
#23 ·
a brake job is very easy to do. I work with cars all the time and this is by far one of the easiest jobs to do. should take no more than 45 minutes for a rookie.
tips would be taking your time. and after you installed the pads remember to pump the brakes before you drive.
oh and the part where it says remove the retainers (A)... there is really no need to remove them and you risk loosening them up which can cause problems.
 
#33 · (Edited)
yes it's fine. I do it at the track but it's only a little bit.. not all the way out to all the way back in.


Maybe someone can answer this a bit better, although when Moose and I were talking about it, this was what we both found worked and had no issues.
 
#36 ·
probably going to get new rotors. anybody know how the Stop Tech Sport Stop Slotted Front Rotors are? either that or the one that they are selling on corsport. do you know anywhere to get them installed for a good price? im in stamford but i go up towards waterbury a bit so any help would be appreciated. thanks
 
#37 ·
ummmm i would do them yourself if possible, not too difficult
otherwise im not aware of too many shops in this area that will do it RIGHT
i know of a few further closer to Hartford lol
one or two in Manchester even (i go to Manchester Honda for oil changes and stuff like that, but just did the pads myself)

StopTech is a pretty good brand, so i heard, but never used them
Send me a link of the one on Corsport
did u check out other vendors on this site?

i think there's a good place in Shelton but ill double check with my bud
im sure there's GOT to be a good place in NHaven also lol

ill ask around, those kind of things i try to do myself :p
**** i could prolly do em for you if u have a place