DIY Front Brake Pads - Page 6

RCHamel3 · 02-22-2010, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by urflix

Any input on bleeding the lines? It seems like 50/50 of those who do and who don't bleed after replacing the pads....

I'd like to know also...anyone?

asndragonboii · 02-22-2010, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCHamel3

I'd like to know also...anyone?

There is no need to bleed after replacing pads or rotors. You can bleed if you want to as a preventative maintenance thing to remove air or moisture.

buck_n_a · 03-01-2010, 09:43 AM

I did this myself on Friday. It was soo easy. Print out the DIY article and just do it. The hardest part was jacking the front end it was so simple.

I have never chnaged my own oil before (till this weekend) and anyone can do this. Do not throw 200-250 at a stealership to have this done when you can do it for 50 and 1/2 hour of your time.

sam06civic · 03-01-2010, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by They Call Me TK

not unless the car wobbles when you brake

even thought sometimes it may not be completely necessary to resurface the rotors each time, it would help with the life of the pads and better braking performance

Danc4580 · 03-11-2010, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 337amberstone

TK Today I have tried replacing the brake pads on the rear but unsucessful . I tried a compression tool but the piston wont go in( compression tool got warped). I've noticed the face of the piston has a groove shape like a cross or plus. What do you call this tool you are referring to. Any alternatve tool?

This is very discouraging to me.. I read in another post a member said he had to twist in the piston?? Can somebody please give more details on this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by DC2007CivicEX

Anyone care to elaborate on doing the rear brakes? I saw someone mention that you have to disconnect the parking brake and the compression tool is a must for the caliper. Anything else to consider?

Am I to assume I can just remove the eyelet on the end of the e-brake cable from the hook attached to the brake?

I'll be with a friend who has done brakes before, but I don't know if we will be able to do this with confidence

Can we use a C clamp on the back brakes?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doeboy211

Nah not plate, in the OP it says M-77 paste? Whats that stuff and where do I get it? Is it the lube you're talking about?

What is this paste?? I'm guessing nobody is using it because there have been no comments (unless they are talking about lube)

I'm about to upgrade all four wheels to hawk hps pads, but need to know if it really is necessary to apply a tiny amount to all those locations on the instructions... and not get ANY on the pad or rotor.

brave21wr · 03-11-2010, 10:43 PM

The twisting pistons are on the rears so a reular c clamp won't work. For the rears there is a special tool at autoshops will rent out to u...not even a compressed air tool I believe. All hand torqued.... The paste is something u apply to back of pads...not exactly sure what the purpose is in the bed in process but I kno it is recommended...usually comes with pads in small packet/tube

SIg · 03-11-2010, 10:55 PM

Bed in process will make your brake pads last longer and be more effective. It is pretty much making your new brake pad surface match with the rotor surface.

Danc4580 · 03-11-2010, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brave21wr

The twisting pistons are on the rears so a reular c clamp won't work. For the rears there is a special tool at autoshops will rent out to u...not even a compressed air tool I believe. All hand torqued.... The paste is something u apply to back of pads...not exactly sure what the purpose is in the bed in process but I kno it is recommended...usually comes with pads in small packet/tube

Cool man thanks for the reply! I'll make sure to stop at autozone first and rent this tool. Just ask for a rear brake compressing tool for our model? Never rented a tool lol I have seen lube come with my friends new pads so hopefully this is the stuff

brave21wr · 03-11-2010, 11:47 PM

Not sure exactly whhat name of tool is but u might wanna call first to see if they hav what ur talking bout instead of showing up for them to say they don't hav it

SteveOFG2 · 03-12-2010, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danc4580

Cool man thanks for the reply! I'll make sure to stop at autozone first and rent this tool. Just ask for a rear brake compressing tool for our model? Never rented a tool lol I have seen lube come with my friends new pads so hopefully this is the stuff

the lube you are speaking of goes on the back of the pad plate....quiets any noise....just make sure you do not get it on the surface of the pad that touches the rotor

jrotax101 · 03-12-2010, 01:19 PM

use a metal file ( side of) or a large screwdriver to turn the rear pistons in.

SteveOFG2 · 03-12-2010, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrotax101

use a metal file ( side of) or a large screwdriver to turn the rear pistons in.

just be careful not to muck up the piston

SI-YA · 03-12-2010, 05:22 PM

While replacing rotors and pads you have to completely remove the caliper assembly right?

I'm getting wicked shuddering under hard braking and I'm going to be replacing front and rear pads and rotors, and bleeding (fluid has moisture in it according to dealership).

Anyone have a good recommendation on a repair manual? I'm looking for a nice step by step for the front and rear.

08 black si sedan · 03-22-2010, 05:35 PM

is it normal to change the front at 36,xxx miles ?

08 black si sedan · 03-22-2010, 05:38 PM

because mine just make a grinding noise when almost at a complete stop. it just barley vibrates my car. so i dont think ill need rotars

packers04 · 03-22-2010, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 08 black si sedan

is it normal to change the front at 36,xxx miles ?

i don't have an si but i still think thats not very long life for the fronts, i have 65k on my brakes right now and still aren't half way worn out yet.

SteveOFG2 · 03-23-2010, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 08 black si sedan

is it normal to change the front at 36,xxx miles ?

see we cant always compair to one another because not everyone has the same driving style i.e. downshifting to slowdown, or just throw into neutral and use all brake. Also some people living in areas with hills/or mountains. So if they are going bad dont worry.....just change them

08 black si sedan · 03-24-2010, 03:19 PM

Thanks this helped me our alot n saved me some cash.

SteveOFG2 · 03-25-2010, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 08 black si sedan

Thanks this helped me our alot n saved me some cash.

another reason i love this site....people helping people

FTW

08 black si sedan · 03-28-2010, 07:01 PM

ya this site is the best.

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03-01-2010, 09:43 AM	#103 (permalink)
buck_n_a Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 5	I did this myself on Friday. It was soo easy. Print out the DIY article and just do it. The hardest part was jacking the front end it was so simple. I have never chnaged my own oil before (till this weekend) and anyone can do this. Do not throw 200-250 at a stealership to have this done when you can do it for 50 and 1/2 hour of your time.

03-11-2010, 10:43 PM	#106 (permalink)
brave21wr Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: south gate,ca Posts: 3,212 Mr.Brave	The twisting pistons are on the rears so a reular c clamp won't work. For the rears there is a special tool at autoshops will rent out to u...not even a compressed air tool I believe. All hand torqued.... The paste is something u apply to back of pads...not exactly sure what the purpose is in the bed in process but I kno it is recommended...usually comes with pads in small packet/tube

03-11-2010, 10:55 PM	#107 (permalink)
SIg Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 1,561	Bed in process will make your brake pads last longer and be more effective. It is pretty much making your new brake pad surface match with the rotor surface.

03-11-2010, 11:47 PM	#109 (permalink)
brave21wr Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: south gate,ca Posts: 3,212 Mr.Brave	Not sure exactly whhat name of tool is but u might wanna call first to see if they hav what ur talking bout instead of showing up for them to say they don't hav it

03-12-2010, 01:19 PM	#111 (permalink)
jrotax101 Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 28,092	use a metal file ( side of) or a large screwdriver to turn the rear pistons in.

03-12-2010, 05:22 PM	#113 (permalink)
SI-YA Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: The great NW Age: 25 Posts: 1,729 Graham	While replacing rotors and pads you have to completely remove the caliper assembly right? I'm getting wicked shuddering under hard braking and I'm going to be replacing front and rear pads and rotors, and bleeding (fluid has moisture in it according to dealership). Anyone have a good recommendation on a repair manual? I'm looking for a nice step by step for the front and rear.

03-22-2010, 05:35 PM	#114 (permalink)
08 black si sedan Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lowell , Ma Age: 23 Posts: 1,333 Nick	is it normal to change the front at 36,xxx miles ?

03-22-2010, 05:38 PM	#115 (permalink)
08 black si sedan Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lowell , Ma Age: 23 Posts: 1,333 Nick	because mine just make a grinding noise when almost at a complete stop. it just barley vibrates my car. so i dont think ill need rotars

03-24-2010, 03:19 PM	#118 (permalink)
08 black si sedan Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lowell , Ma Age: 23 Posts: 1,333 Nick	Thanks this helped me our alot n saved me some cash.

03-28-2010, 07:01 PM	#120 (permalink)
08 black si sedan Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lowell , Ma Age: 23 Posts: 1,333 Nick	ya this site is the best.

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