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Old 09-17-2009, 07:05 PM   #81 (permalink)
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cant edit my last post, I have 61,000 miles and my front pad were replaced at about 33,000 it think
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:08 PM   #82 (permalink)
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hows the rotor surface? do the pads have some meat on them?
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:18 PM   #83 (permalink)
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it looks like they do, I took some pictures a few weeks ago when it started, Ill post them later
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:20 PM   #84 (permalink)
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does the noise start when you hit the brakes?
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:28 PM   #85 (permalink)
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good read
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:12 PM   #86 (permalink)
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no, say if Im doing 50 mph and im coming to a stop light, I start braking and I don't hear it till about 25 mph and it lasts until I stop
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Old 09-24-2009, 02:44 AM   #87 (permalink)
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I know these questions will sound weird, but it's best if I ask questions before I start, so here goes...

1.) Can I apply this method or instruction when I get the HFP brakes pads and rotors? (I am not sure if the HFP brakes will come with instruction, but I just want to know if the instruction, above, will have a similar concept when installing the HFP brakes?)

2.) Do I need to bleed my brakes, if I want to change my brake rotors?
(I understand that it was not mention to bleed your brakes, above, after changing your brake pads, I'm just making sure.)

And yes I am noob at my brakes. But I just don't feel like paying a lot to a mechanic for something that can be done, as explain above. Just trying to save some money. Any suggestion will be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 10-02-2009, 04:56 AM   #88 (permalink)
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at 51k miles and doing my front brake pads soon..should i do the rear at the same time too? Thanks
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:41 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:09 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by They Call Me TK View Post
back pads are a lot different!!! you can use a c-clamp for the front no problem. the back requires you to twist the piston in with a tool you can pick up at any local auto store, it will look like a giant box with different ends, clockwise to twist the piston in and the pads will fit in the grove. you will also have to take off the e-brake lines on each side and remove the brake line bracket to make it work.

TK Today I have tried replacing the brake pads on the rear but unsucessful . I tried a compression tool but the piston wont go in( compression tool got warped). I've noticed the face of the piston has a groove shape like a cross or plus. What do you call this tool you are referring to. Any alternatve tool?
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Old 11-09-2009, 11:05 PM   #91 (permalink)
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what tools do i need to do my front brakes? Is it the same for the rear also? Thanks...planning on doing my brakes soon
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Old 11-11-2009, 12:34 AM   #92 (permalink)
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is it cheaper to buy brake pads and install them yourself, or just go through Honda??
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Old 11-11-2009, 11:20 AM   #93 (permalink)
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is it cheaper to buy brake pads and install them yourself, or just go through Honda??
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Old 11-11-2009, 12:04 PM   #94 (permalink)
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way cheaper to buy brake pads
Manchester honda front brake job - (front pads and unnecessary resurface rotor) $280
Honda pads - $60 C-Clamp or similar $8
Pepboys Prostop Ceramic pads $52 ( i have them. better than stock but def not impressive.)

it all depends if you have to get your rotors resurfaced, but at that price, you can buy rotors and pads and do them yourself! and manchester is the Cheapest dealership ive found (i drive from wolcott to go there for oil changes too. mainly cause i got no place to drop the oil.)
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Old 11-11-2009, 12:06 PM   #95 (permalink)
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what tools do i need to do my front brakes? Is it the same for the rear also? Thanks...planning on doing my brakes soon
you need:
torque wrench (to measure ft-lbs on all bolts. dont want any coming loose OR worst yet, snapping!!! thats from too much torque)
socket set
impact gun (not necessary, but wheels come off a bit quicker lol)
lots of shop rags (there is grease that comes with pads you need to apply to shims)
jack and jack stands (do NOT work under a jack!!!!!!!)
and that would be all! (oh something to rest your caliper on!!!)
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Old 11-11-2009, 02:51 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tda1337 View Post
way cheaper to buy brake pads
Manchester honda front brake job - (front pads and unnecessary resurface rotor) $280
Honda pads - $60 C-Clamp or similar $8
Pepboys Prostop Ceramic pads $52 ( i have them. better than stock but def not impressive.)

it all depends if you have to get your rotors resurfaced, but at that price, you can buy rotors and pads and do them yourself! and manchester is the Cheapest dealership ive found (i drive from wolcott to go there for oil changes too. mainly cause i got no place to drop the oil.)
For front brake pads at Curtiss-Ryan Honda in Shelton, CT charges about $190-200 for changing of FRONT brakes. Plus I bought the car from them so I get 10% off all labor...

I just don't know what brake pads to buy, how to change them exactly, don't have the time during the week to change them (due to working late hours), and so on...

Just trying to balance the pro's and con's. I am definitely going to take your input into consideration tho... decisions decisions...
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:01 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tmrC1V1C View Post
For front brake pads at Curtiss-Ryan Honda in Shelton, CT charges about $190-200 for changing of FRONT brakes. Plus I bought the car from them so I get 10% off all labor...

I just don't know what brake pads to buy, how to change them exactly, don't have the time during the week to change them (due to working late hours), and so on...

Just trying to balance the pro's and con's. I am definitely going to take your input into consideration tho... decisions decisions...
takes less than 15 mins a wheel for a noobie
its easy
quick run thru
take wheel off
unbolt one bolt on caliper, swing away
pull old pads off throw away
take new pads, check shims are on. grease shims and put on (if ceramic)
close caliper and bolt back on (the one bolt u took out, should be 25 ft.lb if i remember)
bolt wheel back on

repeat for both sides.
easy easy easy
curtis ryan sounds cheaper than manchester, im surprised.
but its still a rip in my eyes
u can buy hawk pads on tirerack.com for around 70 bux. really good pads. or brembo's
they give a rating on each pad right when you get to the selection screen. x out of 5 circles. so 4 red circles means 4/5
the ratings are: low dust, stopping power, noise
the less dust (aka closer to 5/5) the less stopping power, and often less noise to (2/5, 4/5) more dust, more stopping power, and more noise
its an easy way to look at itt
hawks and brembos are good pads. Prostop (pepboys) are good OEM replacement, slight upgrade, not real noticable, but they seem to be wearing 100x better than stock were!!! and im driving harder!

if you get like an hour. just change them yourself
i charged my friend 40 bux and a 6pack of beer to do his. easy job :-)

its nice once u have all the tools :-P
personally, im gonna shell out the 560 for the wilwood BBK that corsport caries (thats SOOO cheap.) 4 pot 2 piece rotor... 12.2". ballin!
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:27 PM   #98 (permalink)
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^ yeah it does seem easy, but I am deathly afraid of f[]cking something up and having my brakes not work lmao.

I wanted to upgrade to the HFP brakes / rotors, but CHH no longer has any in their Stimulus Sale... then again $560 isnt bad for Wilwood BBK...
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:17 PM   #99 (permalink)
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exactly. thats why im getting the wilwood kit.
almost the price of the HFP (tho the HFP was front and rear lol)
ive already done one set. def worth saving the money doing it urself. and im a screwup!
Oh and learn from my mistake. use the dead brake pad and the C clamp to push the caliper back in
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:09 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Any input on bleeding the lines? It seems like 50/50 of those who do and who don't bleed after replacing the pads....
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