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#87 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: A place where I can get TWO cups of tea....
Posts: 423
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I know these questions will sound weird, but it's best if I ask questions before I start, so here goes...1.) Can I apply this method or instruction when I get the HFP brakes pads and rotors? (I am not sure if the HFP brakes will come with instruction, but I just want to know if the instruction, above, will have a similar concept when installing the HFP brakes?) 2.) Do I need to bleed my brakes, if I want to change my brake rotors? (I understand that it was not mention to bleed your brakes, above, after changing your brake pads, I'm just making sure.) And yes I am noob at my brakes. But I just don't feel like paying a lot to a mechanic for something that can be done, as explain above. Just trying to save some money. Any suggestion will be appreciated.Thanks Raptorjr |
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#90 (permalink) | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1
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Quote:
TK Today I have tried replacing the brake pads on the rear but unsucessful . I tried a compression tool but the piston wont go in( compression tool got warped). I've noticed the face of the piston has a groove shape like a cross or plus. What do you call this tool you are referring to. Any alternatve tool? |
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#94 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wolcott, CT
Posts: 2,863
Rick
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way cheaper to buy brake pads
Manchester honda front brake job - (front pads and unnecessary resurface rotor) $280 Honda pads - $60 C-Clamp or similar $8 Pepboys Prostop Ceramic pads $52 ( i have them. better than stock but def not impressive.) it all depends if you have to get your rotors resurfaced, but at that price, you can buy rotors and pads and do them yourself! and manchester is the Cheapest dealership ive found (i drive from wolcott to go there for oil changes too. mainly cause i got no place to drop the oil.) |
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#95 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wolcott, CT
Posts: 2,863
Rick
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Quote:
torque wrench (to measure ft-lbs on all bolts. dont want any coming loose OR worst yet, snapping!!! thats from too much torque) socket set impact gun (not necessary, but wheels come off a bit quicker lol) lots of shop rags (there is grease that comes with pads you need to apply to shims) jack and jack stands (do NOT work under a jack!!!!!!!) and that would be all! (oh something to rest your caliper on!!!) |
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#96 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 4,041
Tim
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Quote:
I just don't know what brake pads to buy, how to change them exactly, don't have the time during the week to change them (due to working late hours), and so on... Just trying to balance the pro's and con's. I am definitely going to take your input into consideration tho... decisions decisions... |
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#97 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wolcott, CT
Posts: 2,863
Rick
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Quote:
its easy quick run thru take wheel off unbolt one bolt on caliper, swing away pull old pads off throw away take new pads, check shims are on. grease shims and put on (if ceramic) close caliper and bolt back on (the one bolt u took out, should be 25 ft.lb if i remember) bolt wheel back on repeat for both sides. easy easy easy curtis ryan sounds cheaper than manchester, im surprised. but its still a rip in my eyes u can buy hawk pads on tirerack.com for around 70 bux. really good pads. or brembo's they give a rating on each pad right when you get to the selection screen. x out of 5 circles. so 4 red circles means 4/5 the ratings are: low dust, stopping power, noise the less dust (aka closer to 5/5) the less stopping power, and often less noise to (2/5, 4/5) more dust, more stopping power, and more noise its an easy way to look at itt hawks and brembos are good pads. Prostop (pepboys) are good OEM replacement, slight upgrade, not real noticable, but they seem to be wearing 100x better than stock were!!! and im driving harder! if you get like an hour. just change them yourself i charged my friend 40 bux and a 6pack of beer to do his. easy job :-) its nice once u have all the tools :-P personally, im gonna shell out the 560 for the wilwood BBK that corsport caries (thats SOOO cheap.) 4 pot 2 piece rotor... 12.2". ballin! |
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#98 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 4,041
Tim
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^ yeah it does seem easy, but I am deathly afraid of f[]cking something up and having my brakes not work lmao.
I wanted to upgrade to the HFP brakes / rotors, but CHH no longer has any in their Stimulus Sale... then again $560 isnt bad for Wilwood BBK... |
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#99 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wolcott, CT
Posts: 2,863
Rick
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exactly. thats why im getting the wilwood kit.
almost the price of the HFP (tho the HFP was front and rear lol) ive already done one set. def worth saving the money doing it urself. and im a screwup! Oh and learn from my mistake. use the dead brake pad and the C clamp to push the caliper back in |
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