Full B&G Coilover and SPC front/rear camber kits Install

[JeShUa]

Yeah.. I got them in.. but no alignment yet !! :[

[Way2Short]

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[Way2Short]

This should pretty much be like the HFP kit right?

[JeShUa]

Yeah right. I think with the B&G you can lower it 3.5"... the hfp kit is set at .8" lower than stock and cannot be adjusted.

[MonkeyConQueso]

Originally Posted by JeShUa

Yeah right. I think with the B&G you can lower it 3.5"... the hfp kit is set at .8" lower than stock and cannot be adjusted.

Aye, the HFP kit is WAY WAY WAY easier. I should emphasize that WAY some more...

There's no adjustability in the HFP kit, so there's really nothing to tinker with. You DO NOT need a camber kit with the HFP kit either, although I'm sure some people still buy 'em. Basically the HFP kit is a straight swap, and you may have to use some parts, but it should be nothing like installing a full coilover set.

[Way2Short]

What I meant was the DIY like the same as the HFP kit... not if it lowers it the same amount. Sorry I wasn't clear.

[JeShUa]

You could use this DIY to help you installing the HFP kit, yes, as you must take out the same components.

[MonkeyConQueso]

Originally Posted by JeShUa

You could use this DIY to help you installing the HFP kit, yes, as you must take out the same components.

Yep yep, what he said. I'm sorry I wasn't clear, but my point was wrapping JeShUa's post and your post all in one in a very confusing way...just chalk it up to me being sick today. Sorry 'bout that!

[JeShUa]

Btw Armand, I dont like your shoes. :]

[MonkeyConQueso]

Originally Posted by JeShUa

Btw Armand, I dont like your shoes. :]

What!?! You don't like my grandpa slip-on shoes?? Gotta love comfy cheap-arse shoes while working on your car. Well, actually, I wear them to work too. My boots are too shiny and nice to wear on a daily basis. Mmmm...Ox blood.

[JeShUa]

I just wear old J's.. or something else old :x. ANYWHO. I wonder why you cannot edit any of the posts in this section :x it makes no sense to me.

[MonkeyConQueso]

Originally Posted by JeShUa

I just wear old J's.. or something else old :x. ANYWHO. I wonder why you cannot edit any of the posts in this section :x it makes no sense to me.

Webby (or another admin) locked it down, but not sure why. Maybe they didn't like the fact that I'd edit it whenever I needed to update a pic or refine the installation process? None the less, if I have an edit now, I just post it in here and one of the admins catch it. No biggy.

[supreme x jdm]

few questions,

i just loosen this and this will drop the shock?



do i take the smaller bolt out the the bigger one? and that would disconnect the caber arm from the hub?



then i would take of the bolt that holds the strut?



then the next step will be to take off the rear sway bar?

[img]http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/Pathbearer/Picture021.jpg/[img]

sorry im new to this type of suspension cause im so used to the ep3 suspension and i dont want to mess this up since its not my car that i will be working on.

[MonkeyConQueso]

Sorry for fully quoting you, but I feel I might as well include the pics to keep the responses clear :)

Originally Posted by supreme x jdm

few questions,

i just loosen this and this will drop the shock?

^^ Yes, loosening this one nut will release the upper part of the shock entierly. No other nuts or bolts hold the top part in.

Originally Posted by supreme x jdm

do i take the smaller bolt out the the bigger one? and that would disconnect the caber arm from the hub?

The smaller one is just holding that black plate in place (the larger nut is welded to the plate). If you have air tools (or strong arms, unlike myself), there is no need to loosen the smaller bolt at all, just loosen the main bolt itself. If you don't have air tools, and are not strong enough to loosen the bolt, then take out the small bolt I'm pointing to in that picture, and use tools to loosen the nut that is welded to the plate. It comes off easier than the bolt. After you loosen it, just re-align the plate, and put the smaller bolt back in.

And yes, that bolt releases the hub from the camber arm.

Originally Posted by supreme x jdm

then i would take of the bolt that holds the strut?

Yep, removing this bolt is pretty easy and once it's out, you can remove the shock entierly.

Originally Posted by supreme x jdm

then the next step will be to take off the rear sway bar?



sorry im new to this type of suspension cause im so used to the ep3 suspension and i dont want to mess this up since its not my car that i will be working on.

You don't have to remove the sway bar, just separate the endlinks from the hub and the sway itself.

Hey no worries. Once you are down there looking at it, it's 10x easier than the front and makes 10x more sense. Let me know if you have any other questions!

[supreme x jdm]

^^ cool thanks man, i just ordered buddy club coils and cant wait to install them soon.

[BadazzSi]

hey how does it feel on the rode now, with the coilovers

[MonkeyConQueso]

Originally Posted by BadazzSi

hey how does it feel on the rode now, with the coilovers

Strong, but not bouncy (I've got the B&G's dialed in at 12 clicks from soft, if I remember correctly) unless I hit a sloping bump in the road like a couple of places on my commute... Hitting potholes is painful, made even more painful by the fact that my ball bearing collar on the driver's side front assembly is now shot and cracked because of pot-holes. Buying one today and installing it...when it's not raining and freezing!

Otherwise, it handles very very well. No regrets, but if I did it all over again, I'd buy a set of Skunk2 lowering springs and just slap 'em on the stock struts, and replace them with Tokico's when they blew. There's no need to have an adjustable setup on the street, and my envisioned ideas of going to a track are laid by the way side because of lack of time in my life.

[Habanero-red_Si]

nice diy

[07 Figi Blue Si]

Originally Posted by MonkeyConQueso

Regarding Two Bolt Picture, Camber arm to hub disconnect:

The smaller one is just holding that black plate in place (the larger nut is welded to the plate). If you have air tools (or strong arms, unlike myself), there is no need to loosen the smaller bolt at all, just loosen the main bolt itself. If you don't have air tools, and are not strong enough to loosen the bolt, then take out the small bolt I'm pointing to in that picture, and use tools to loosen the nut that is welded to the plate. It comes off easier than the bolt. After you loosen it, just re-align the plate, and put the smaller bolt back in.

I don't understand the statement in bold above. If the large nut is welded to the plate, and you choose to be "strong" and not remove the smaller nut like you say, and try to crack loose just the large nut with the small one still attached, then won't you be breaking the weld between the large nut and the plate? Wont you also be trying to shear off the smaller bolt? Shouldn't the weld be kept, and always remove the smaller nut first? This also means when turning the large nut, the plate will turn with it. Please clarify, as I don't think breaking welds to disassemble this joint was the intention of HMC for this connection.

[07 Figi Blue Si]

I am considering upgraded suspension. What do you recommend? So why did you choose the B&G over Buddy Club, Tien, Tokiko, Megan, etc. Which one offers preload independant of ride height?